johnceggleston

check this out it may help diagnois. http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm john

i realize the 97 is newer and probably fewer miles, but i'm not a body person. i find it easier to swap the mechanics than to make body repairs. plus, unless the 97 has a clean title, resale may be an issue. there are only minor differences , if any, between 95 and 97. one of the things they changed was to add a "bolt" to the lower part of the rear door jamb. it extends into the door when closed to help keep it from opening in an accident. better crash test rating. the 97 door will fit a 95 but not the other way around, unless you remove the bolt. it looks like it just threads out. i'd use the 97 to make the 95 good. you can swap all of the interior, trans , axels, hubs even engine. just my opinion.

i have a new coil if you need it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=566907 let me know. john

it is in mine!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i doubt it. the pulley wobbled because the bolt was lose. that means the piece thats in the car is not in far enough. even if you grind down the remaining piece to clear it, how is it going to hold? but what have you got to lose.?

i want to know about the car 'salesmans' help. and does he sell auto parts at night or just cars?

the one exception being that if your duty c has failed, and mine did. i know what locked feels like. what i haven't ever experienced is the need for 4WD. i i've never ben in an old gen subaru, much less driven one, so i have no knowledge there, nor did i even consider those cars. and i'm not faulting any one who needs the mod. the point i was trying to make is this, as designed the system does a pretty good job, FWD mostly, 50/50 when you need it while protecting the trans from being damaged. and if you're traveling 45 or 50, you are either going too fast for the conditions or the codtions do not require more power. putting mods on your car to compensate for an aging car, trans, computer, system, whatever ..... is fine. but as you point out, it's not necesary on the legacy mid 90's with 80k miles. did i get it right?

i concluded last week that the difference between the mod switch which locks the AWD unit and shifting into 1 or 2 (and obviously there is a difference since, as someone pointed out , there is not torque bind) the only doifference is that when in 1 or 2 the computer is still involved and allows for slipping and the bleed-off of pressure to avoid clutch pack damage. this begs the question, how fast do you want to go while the car in a 50/50 split? when the conditions require more rear end power, instead of turning on a swicth, just shift to 1 or 2. unless you'er going 45 mph, you'll get the power you need and youy'll avoid the possibility of damage. if conditions warrant more power to the rear end, i don't think you should be going fast enough to be in thrid. on the other hand however, there will be a rear end power benefit at slow speeds with the AWD unit locked; there is also the possibility of damage if abused or not monitored correctly. just think of it as locked hubs on a standard 4WD truck. you have more power, buy you don't want it or need it at higher speeds.

i don't know anything about the quality or operation of these generators, but i will occasionally see one on craigslist.org as "subaru - robin" engine. i've also seen this name on other gas powered equipment, soil compacters and concrete finishers. apparently there is a branch of subaru the makes small engines. they probably bought a comapny named robin.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70073&highlight=Ill6

what a waste. i'll bet the engine is trashed.

ididn't quite know where to put this, and i didn't think it worth a new therad, but i came across this on ebay. does any one believe this is true?? Vehicle Description This car spent alot of time being towed behind a Motor Home/RV. All Wheel Drive system can be disengaged to Front Wheel Drive with an aftermarket fuse (for towing purposes).............. Acutal driven mileage is much lower. ..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-Subaru-Outback-Limited-READ-ME_W0QQitemZ120075483181QQihZ002QQcategoryZ31870QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

of course it all depends on how much you drain out each time, what percentage. but yeah, 8 times should do it. 3.5 qts at 2.30$ = 8.05$ times 8 = 64.40$; for anothe 25$ you can getr a shop to do it . and you get to read last months time magizine.

double check to make sure it has ABS.

bserk, you have a private message.

i think the warning light for 90 - 94 is a POWER light on the dash, not sure, i have a 95. if the code says bad duty c, then that's what it is and the symptoms match. the only unknown, is the clutch pack itself. my plan is to buy a good used trans and install a new duty c before i swap it in. it's only 100$ more and i don't want to do it twice.

what year is it? it there an AT OIL TEMP light flashing 16 time just after start up ? it's possible that a trans fluid change will help, but that's mostly mid 90's cars and only if the fluid is dirty. clutch gets gummed up. if the AT OIL TEMP light is flashing = bad duty c solenoid. still binding with FWD fuse in and no red FWD dash light = bad duty c (maybe more) no binding with the FWD fuse in = bad clutch pack. (maybe gummed up) driving the car while binding will evenyuallly ruin the clutch pack, if not already damaged. both repairs require removing the rear extention housing from the trans. usually the duty c goes first, my cost here is 94$ plus the labor 285$. but whose going to spend 300$ to pull the housing and not replace most if not all the parts in there. complete rebuild, dealer cost, parts & labor 850$. what year and miles?

the attachment points on the top have to be the same. the only place the fit could possible be different is across the bottom of the grill. (headlights are identical) that means the top of the bumper cover would have to be different. i don't believe they are. besides even if it doesn't fit you can resell it. people are always looking for grills. how much does it cost?

the problem is you don't know if it's just the solenoid or the clutch pack as well. if you get a good rear extention housing (AWD unit) off a bad trans, or gamble on the clutch pack being good and just replace the solenoid. that can be done with out removing the trans, ( you have to let hang down a little.) find a wrecked 95/96 legacy. it has the 2.2L engine. you can address the AWD before you install it . or remove the rear drive shaft. or drive "locked" in 4WD all winter. it will definitely ruin the clutch pack. all 95 - 99 legacys and outback have the same extention housing. go talk "mechaniees" to the tech at the dealer, maybe they can turn you on to a bad low miles trans with a good clutch pack. just ot lift your spirits: More Photos Condition Value Excellent $5,335 Good $4,820 Fair $4,210 Search Local Listings Sell Your Wagon Vehicle Highlights Mileage: 125,000 Engine: 4-Cyl. 2.5 Liter Transmission: Automatic Drivetrain: AWD Selected Equipment Change Equipment Standard Air ConditioningTilt WheelDual Front Air Bags Power SteeringCruise ControlABS (4-Wheel) Power WindowsAM/FM StereoRoof Rack Power Door LocksCassetteAlloy Wheels Optional Single Compact Disc

good tip on the plugs. makes sense.

the only other weakness, if you can call it that is the mentioned torque bind. first check to see if the "AT OIL TEMP" light flashes 16 times just after start up. if so your "duty c" solenoid is bad, (94$ from the dealer, pull the rear extention housing on the trans, and install new solenoid / valve body.) then, when turning in tight circles it feels like 'locked front hubs' on a 4x4. it shudders and jumps, you have torque bind. could be caused by mismatched tires not or properly inflated. there is a fuse you can 'install' under the hood, passenger side, behind the strut tower, marked FWD. (if the cap is still there.) put any fuse in there and it should become front wheel drive and the torque bind will go away. if so, this means the duty c is still working but the clutch pack could be shot. (850$ installed at the dealer.) your next step is to try new a/t fluid. if you have torque bind, don't drive it very much unless you plan on spending the 850$. if it's not the solenoid, and you catch it in time, new fluid may help. i think they redesigned the solenoid valve body in mid 97. yeah, i'm confused and tried too. john

they say you can do it in the car, heads that is , but if you've been working on nissans for 30 years, you're not young and neither is your back. subie heads are not on top of the engine hehehehe! so be prepared to leeeeeeean over. i've never done either. since you're the mechanic pull the engine , some here brag it can be done in 90 minutes. but i'll bet not on his first try. never the less it's not hard. especially if you have experience and TOOLS / SHOP. if you were not a mechanic i would suggest finding a good 96 2.2L engine to drop in. the 2.2 is the premiere subaru engine, non-interferrence, and very likley to go 250 - 300k miles. but since you know your way around an engine, do the gaskets. the timing belts are due at 105k, if not done do that ot , as well as the water pump and any idlers for the belt. oh yeah, don't for get the o-ring behind the oil pump and oil seals(cam?) on the front of the engine. after this you won't have to go back into it for 100k miles. maybe valva cover gaskets too. if you do pul the engine check the oil seperator /baffle plate on the rear. on the other hand, just replace the gaskest and drive it until ......... if you get 10k miles it will be money well spent. (2.5L engines are interferrence) a recent post told of 146k miles on original t-belt. good luck, and welcome on board. john 95 2.2L legacy sedan 175kmiles 97 2.5L outback wagon 111k miles 90 NISSAN PICK UP 179K miles (original clutch) i love my truck!!!

i heard or read recently that the outback grills wouln't fit in a legacy or vice-versa. I DON'T BELIEVE IT. they could not afford to make the car bodies different. the head lights are the same. i guess the bumper covers could be different, but thats a stretch. my guess is that they are interchangeable. if you have the old one take it with you to compare to the new one to see if there is a difference. i bet not.

3/16ths is tiny , think axel pin punch. .....................it has to be 5/16ths.

you might look for a different legacy, in DC / Baltimore maybe. they have lots of soobys on craiglist.org <www.crazedlist.org> . further south means less snow, less rust. and it's only 80$ on the train to get there, maybe less. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/car/259509989.html seems high $. or this: http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/car/260210085.html or this: http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/car/259927526.html