johnceggleston

after you back off the lock nut, use spray paint to mark the tie rod end in addition to measuring and counting. i have also seen a hack saw used to mark the threaded end. you just want to make sure it goes back together the exact same way so you don't have to buy an alignment.

so do you have less or the same as before?? you can try lots of fixes, but if it doesn't go away, what are your choices? fix it (replace, rebuild) before it dies or drive it until it dies. me , i'd drive it and continue to try fixes, aditives, frequent oil changes, etc. what have you got to loose? i'd go for as many miles as i could before i spent major bucks. it may tick for another 100k miles. maybe try thicker, or thiner oil. good luck john

i take it that this is a steering issue, not a Torque Bind issue???

i'm not sure it's a 50/50 torque split, some one some where explained the 50/50 as the duty c cycle. i'm not real sure what that means, but until we have an awd on a 4 wheel dyno and actually test it, we'll never know. but the 50/50 is an effective way to describe the difference between "mostly FWD" (90/10) and AWD (50/50). except for off roading , how many have gotten a subaru stuck? or a better question, how many have driven a subaru past 6 stuck 4WD SUV's? the computer does a pretty good job making these cars go. and my experience has been, almost 200K subaru AWD miles and one 300$ awd drive repair. i'm hooked. my only disappointment is that since i moved and changed jobs, i'm only driving 16K miles ayear, down from 30k. i think my car is going to rot before i wear it out. do you subaru??

typically the 2.5 a/t and the 2.2 a/t have different part numbers. this is most likley due to different final drive ratios, 2.2 AT = 4.11, 2.5 AT = 4.44. MT were different than both 3.9 i think. i haven't read anthing about the compatability/swap-ability of the transmissions themselves. i would look for the gear ratio of each and compare. this would give you a good idea. subaru would have been real smart if they were the same. some trans model numbers: TA102AAAAA = 95 LEG 2.2 A/T FWD; 2&6 "A"s = fwd TZ102ZAAAA = 95 LEG 2.2L A/T AWD; the Z's indicate awd TZ102ZABAA = 96 LEG 2.2L A/T AWD TZ102ZACAA = 97/98 2.2L LEG A/T AWD TZ102Z2CBA = 97/98 2.5L a/t awd outback; the 2 = 2.5L except in 96 where in meant outback trim TZ102Z2DBA = 98/99 2.5L a/t awd outback TZ1A2ZJEBA = 99 (late) 2.5 a/t awd outback; the 4th A is different, new gen of trans???????? TZ1A4ZCCA = 2000 2.5 a/t awd outback; another change yet again

one of the nice things about this forum is that there are people who are willing to help others. i don't know any where near waht others do, but i can repeat what i've learned for those who know even less. thankfully some one was willing to take the time to educate me on piston slap, clutch packs (still learning about that one), and engine swaps. a haynes manual is a great start , but when it comes to changing your plugs, it's liable to say "remove and replace". but here, you will find someone posting a picture of the socket, extention & ratchet arrangment necessary to do the job with less headache. oh yeah, don't forget the duct tape!!! so thanks to all those who help.

i'd like to take credit for the pictures, but i just saved the link. it looks like you have to pull the tranny, may as well open it up while it's out. you might get lucky. the parts you need should be easy to come by, but still a PITA to get to. lots of used trannys around. so if you can't repair you can always swap trans. john

he said 60$ o2 sensor. oem is 80$ online. advance auto is 102$.

sounds like you are going to have to pull the differential offd the transmission. or replace the whole thing. check these out. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/?

did you read this? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54389

if you're listening to rush, then i'm not helping. i've heard it's a ground wire. next we'll discuss religion.

well, if the gear selector is in 1 or 2, you get the 50/50 split. i can't see you rock crawling in "D". but then 50/50 isn't locked 4wd either. i wonder if you can trick the tcu(?) into thinking you are in 1 or 2 when you are in fact in D or 3. this would give 50/50 in the snow for instance with out having to shift into 1 or 2. a plus in bad conditions, and it would engage before the wheels slipped. subaru has decided that either we don't need this advantage or it's not good for the car/trans. i posted in another thread that when you select "2" you can feel the AWD engage an instant after you start rolling (slight uphill is most noticeable). you can feel a substialtial load being put on the drive train. this would imply less effeicent operation, but if you need 4wd, go for it.

96 is single and different than 95 dual.

no one's forcing you to read or respond.

if the canadian version came with regular belts, then the mounting points are there, they didn't make a different body for canada. and i bet the 94-95 changes weren't that great so maybe 95-99 belts might fit. all you're talking about is the top bracket, and maybe a longer belt. how did the canadian models deal with the auto-belt track.?? did they just hide it ? or did they introduce the 95 changes into canada before the us.?

what are you going to put it in, it may make a difference??

why are you replacing the boots? one of the few things i've learned on this forum is that the suggested solution doesn't always solve the problem.

i think i printed one out last fall. i can't remember for sure . and i might be able to find it. but if i did print it , then it came off this site. so i'd change my search parameters and look again. i'll look later today.

so, i was out in the country, on a grass drive way slight uphill incline. i was going to turn downhill off the driveway, do a u turn and then drive back up to the driveway and go home. instead of putting it in "D" as i usually would, i put in "2" be cause i didn't want spin my wheels and tear up the lawn. as i started to move forward, everything was normal. and then in an instant, it felt like some had put a severe load on the car. almost as though i had taken the slack out of a tow rope/strap and took up the load. this must be the clutch pack kicking in. i tried it again just to be sure, and it did it again. i tried it later on pavement, slight uphill and not as noticeable, but the tranny was hot then so idon't know. tried in slight downhill and didn't notice it. i think until the the output shaft turns the clutch can't engage. so there is always going to be a delay. and unless you have driven a brand new 4eat w/ awd you won't be able to tell if yours is working like new or not. and my idea of a "slight delay" may be entirely different than yours. the joy of this AWD system is that it's pretty much FWD until you slip and then you don't have to do anything, it just becomes AWD. you could have a 4WD car/truck, but you wouldn't get 25 -30 mpg. and if you know you need AWD start in 2 or 1, and you'll have it. just my opinion. john

my next question would be how does the shaft lock into the sensor, is there any chance i fell on the flooor when you removed the sensor? or are you fairly confident that the last guy removed it? also, if the front wheels aren't turning and rear are, then the clutch pack wouild never kick in.

last week on an unusually hot day i had terrible starting problems, so i went to autozone, bought a relay, a fused lead wire, some connectors and FIXED my car, using the above link/thread. it couldn't have been easier. the connector on the starter was the same size as the relay, 1/4", so ididn't have to cut the original wire. just unplug it from the starter and slip it on to the relay. if thr relay ever fails, i can just move it back the way it was. the fused wire from battery was easy, so was the ground wire, and it started right up and hasn't missed since. the only thing i would do differently, my ground is red and i didn't get any kind of connector for the end, just copper wier wrapped under an exsisting ground screw, and i didn't have any zip ties. both are easy to correct. if oyu have an intermitten starter problem give this a try. 5$ relay, 5$ connectors, i had the fused lead wire but they cant be much. east fix. thanks for the link matt. john

i wonder if the "no power/fully locked" causes less fluid to flow as a lubricant and that helps cause damage to the clutch pack.?? i'm not sure, there aren't many things that pull 30 amps. and from what i saw, this duty c isn't one of them. some one recently wrote a fairly technical description of the "signal" to the duty c, it didn't sound high amp to me.. i'd be interested to read the elec. spec, for a new one. but i doubt it's printed on the back of the box.

it's a penetrating oil for rusty bolts and things. guys here swear by it. but almost anythig will help. i don't remember the plug, but it you order the front one you'll be good. call subaru genuine parts, get it online. (do a search) (at places like autozone they will talk about bank 1 sensor 2, but subaru only has 1 bank and 2 sensors.) the wiring connector for the front one is on the passenger side near the fire wall, i think. the connector for the rear one is on the left side of the trans about half way back underneath. i had toruble with this connector. it was hard to disconnect. even after i had worked with one out of a parts car. too much road dirt i guess. the front one i didn't change. i put in used because i already had it. but based on conversation here, i'd buy oem online and use that. i don't know the quality difference but they all cost about the same. autozone 102$, subaru genuine parts, online 80$? john

technically i've had 2 tows, but i don't count the second one because it wasn't the car's fault. i ran a light while dialing my cell phone. and it is spread out over 3 cars, all used, 93 leg - wrecked at 175K after 75K miles, 95 leg - used tranny at 170K after 100K, now at college, and 97 obw - driving now at 115K after 20K and counting. after i got the 95 running i regretted giving it to my son. it will be interesting to see which car last longer. i told him this was his car and it would last until he graduate if he takes care of it. i'm praying it doesn't end in a wreck.

it looks great. but unless you like advertizing that it's an antique as you pull up, loose the front plate. i lost mine in a car wash 3 years ago and haven't had any toruble with the law. and i don't miss it. take it off and put it under the seat. if any one complains, put it back on. who did the paint? you ?