johnceggleston

generally speaking, (not guaranteed, so double check,) ALL legacy L cars with manual trans 00 - 04 have the 3.9 ratio, this includes brightons, LS? and low end imprezas. outbacks, GTs foresters generally have the 4.11 ratio. see a pattern here? high end imprezas probably are different, idk.

an off the cuff guess based on the ID number provided, the donor trans is 1 -2 years younger than your car, same ratio. but that is just a guess. the ID numbers in the 00 - 04 years were not as consistent as the numbers in the 90s. year, and model please

that chart is pretty good, but it is NOT PERFECT. i would not trust it completely. the donor trans, you are going to have better luck identifying the ratio, if you know the year, model of the donor car. from that you can track down the trans number on http://opposedforces.com/parts . and once you know for sure the year and model, you can search the diff ring and pinion part numbers. and there it will list the ratios. or you can just tell me the year and model of the DONOR trans car and i can likely tell the ratio. i am very knowledgeable about trans ratios 95 - 04.

several options if the carpet does not have holes, remove the front seats and use a hand held shampooer, or remove it entirely and take it to a car wash and use the power spray option, or my favorite, remove it, buy the largest plastic storage tub you can find, buy 5 - 8 bottles of black RITZ dye, fold up the carpet and put it ans the dye with enough water to cover in the tub. you will likely have to remove the carpet after a day, refold and then resoak for a day. mine looked a little splotchy, tie-dyed, after the first day, but much better after the refold and re-soak. although a little splotchy still. but once installed you can't tell. (tip: do not pour out the dye batch until you have the carpet installed. i also dyed some floor mats.) if the carpet has holes, buy a used one and clean and or dye it. works great.

when you hear hoof beats, think horses, not zebras. when dealing with an overheating ej22, think coolant leak, not head gasket leak.

if it were an ej25 i would definitely agree with head gaskets. but since it is an ej22, that is the last thing i would suspect. but it could be.

dis connect the battery over night to clear the codes, then drive the car. if it comes back i would replace the sensor. FYI: there are 2 sensors, the 2 wire unit is for the ECU, the single wire unit is for the dash gauge. and of course i would double check the wiring as well.

you probably have a leak. it could be the cap, but it could be a hose . keep an eye on it. i would drive to full temp, and then let it idle in the drive way. look for a leak underneath the car. my cap leaked but only under full temp, not when cold. caps are cheap, replace it. but i might try and locate the problem first. look at the seal on the cap, does it look bad? the other thing to pay attention to is filling and burping the system. the cooling system is hard to fill without trapping air. so if it gets low enough to trap air, you need to burp it. search ''how to fill and burp your cooling system''.

trans-X, do a drain and fill and include a qt of trans-x.

with the manual trans in neutral, and all 4 tires on the ground, you can tow the the car as far as you want. but i would suggest that your wife drive and you steer the towed car. if she fails to brake and wrecks your new car you may be upset. if you do it on the other hand ..... it's just a car.

the 99 ej22 sohc engine is a phase 2 engine and was used in the 99 legacy and the 99 - 00 impreza. with some minor adjustments it can be used in the 00 - 03 legacy, outback, GT, forester, and impreza. but it may be a little under powered for the outback .

he's right about the torque cnverter. if ti is not fully seated when you bolt them together, it will kill your trans. but if you are careful when you pull the engine and do not let it slide out of the trans bell housing, you should be fine. suggestions before installing the new engine, new timing components, all of them. new oil separator plate on the rear of the block. new seals on the front of the block, 4 cam, 1 crank, plus the oil pump. clean the intake , IAC, throttle body and maybe the EGR. check and adjust if necessary, the valves, it is a pain but easier when out. (do not spill and mix up the shims) other tips, remove the intake manifold during removal to make it easy to reach the flex plate bolts. i do the reverse on install, but most folks do not. actually you will have fewer headaches if you use the 96 intake on the 98 long block. do not disconnect the refrigerant lines for the A/C compressor, just unbolt and flop it out of the way. refill the coolant SLOWLY with the vent plug open, then burp. do not dent the trans oil pan when jacking it up for engine removal. the 2 bottom engine to trans nuts are easier to reach with the axles disconnected from the trans. good luck.

dextron 2/3

i put a 1/2 qt. in any ej22 i swap into an ej25 car. there is no telling how long the ej22 has been sitting in the parts yard. and then i change the oil within 500 miles. some times i will do it a second time. same oil change time frame.

always!!!! subaru is all about ''same year group use the same parts''. and ''share the engineering between models''. this save them a boat load of money. now in recent years i think they have softened on both of these principals , but im bot sure. i only know 90 - 04 subarus. and then mostly leagacy. depending on your goal, outback struts 96 - 99 will fit your 95 legacy with NO problems. i think the 99s have a different part number, because they move the brake fluid hose bracket, or something minor like that. i do not know forester details. but if knowledgeable folks here say 98 - 0? will work, that is good enough for me. i have not read all of the info in this link, but i think the source is reliable, if not perfect. most folks on that site are more interested in lowering, not lifting. EDIT, link added: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-suspension-faq-swaybars-struts-springs-coilovers-alignment-171914.html and i have already lifted both of my legos, 97 (EXACT same chassis) and 00 (same part / engineering sharing principal), with outback struts. so i do not need to know more at this point in time. and i do remember reading here, on this site, that outback rear struts are taller than forester struts. but i do not really know. and it is entirely possible that the 03 - 04 forester struts are taller than 98, but again, i do not know.

the ej25 block with ej22 heads is a pretty good idea. it will bolt in and should run fine. just use the ej18 intake manifold with the wiring attached. plug and play, but you will need? to do the EGR work around. all ej18s have EGR. an easier swap is an ej22 with the ej18 intake. plug and play, but you will need? to do the EGR work around. all ej18s have EGR. if you are thinking turbo, you are better off starting with a different car. you can do it, if you have the time and money, but why.? just buy a legacy, 90 - 94, with a factory turbo. it will cost, but it will probably be cheaper.

warning, the dip sticks can be hard to read, really hard to read. so fill it, check it, let it sit, check it again. and be sure you KNOW where the AT dip stick is. there is also a short one for the front diff.

try the horn and cruise control if you have it. is the air bag light on? either a fuse, or a ground wire. mine was intermittent, it is in remission for now. or maybe the clock spring? the inter lock may not have anything to do with the horn and air bag, but these are the 3 things i have trouble with at the same time, i think. when mine would not unlock the shifter, i used a rubber band to ''release the shifter permanently. at least until the rubber rotted and snapped. i doubt it is the relay or the solenoid, but maybe.

my 97 2.5GT has a flat spot in acceleration, it goes away once i get it above 2000rpm. i have done the tune up, plugs wires, filters, cleaned the MAF, ran some seafoam thru it. my current guess is a dirty IAC, but it could be a dirty throttle body or EGR pipe. idk. or it just occurred to me that maybe it was that inexpensive knock sensor from china..... but lots of folks have installed them with no issues that i have heard. so i'm planning on pulling the intake and cleaning it all up, maybe soon. have you tried disconnecting the battery overnight? if it drives fine the first time after an ECU reset, it maybe could be the ECU. i have read one situation where this happened on a 99 outback, but not on any others. NOTE: my 97 GT has a 96 ej22 swapped into it.

yes, swap the flex plate. the flex plate on the ej25 is larger than the ej22. so keep the one that came on your car. there will be a couple of metal lines on the front of the engine intake on the ej22 , near the top rad hose, they went to the charcoal canister. in 98 they moved the canister to the rear of the car. so either plug them or connect them to each other, you do not need them. do not disconnect the cooling hoses on the A/C compressor. just unbolt the compressor and flop it out of the way during removal. (i flop it back after removal, less stress on the hose.) reuse the A/C bracket that was on the ej25. i don't know why or if it is even necessary, but that's what they told me to do and it works fine. and the small vac lines that go to the passenger strut tower, there used to be 2 going over, then they switched to only one, whatever. just make sure the stuff on the strut tower is connect by one, and make sure all other hose nipples on the intake are connected or capped. an open nipple will give you head aches was you get it running. remove the intake from the engine to make it EASY to get to the flex plate bolts. remove the axles from the trans to make it easy to get to the bottom two engine / trans nuts. do not jack the trans up on the oil pan, it will dent and cause problems. http://www.beergarage.com has a good ''how to''. good luck.

crank triggers the spark cam triggers the fuel usually the engine will not start if a tab is missing. but i priced them new the other day for a guy on anotheer forum, omline dealer ~$35 plus shipping, so local dealer maybe $45. but i would only do that if you need the car on the road TODAY to get your wife to the hospital. get a used one, from gary if you have the time.

the climbing webbing will work great, just don't plan on using it for climbing again. it may come clean, but probably not. there is a great lift point in the rear where the 3 wire connectors were, but it comes off with the intake, unless you remove it from the harness. i use the a/c bracket up front. even if i have to bolt it back on. i used to put the intake back in place and use an old seat belt on the intake pipes. but now i have a couple of extra lift brackets that came off the rear of the engine. i'm a little leery of lifting by a single horizontal bolt. i would hate to snap it or crack the housing / block. but the a/c bracket bolted down in 2 or 3 places is a good lift point. start with as little slack in the lift chain as possible. you want it to clear the front grill on your first try. it is a real pain to get it in the air only to learn you cannot lift it high enough to clear.

the only ''subaru rebuilt'' autoi trans i have seen had a metal tag on it with serial number, date, maybe miles, and other such stuff. i used to have a picture of it. so if yours does not have this, it may not be rebuilt by subaru. and most rebuilders paint them a solid color, gray maybe. how do you know it does not fit your 03 forester? how does it not fit? does not move? does not bolt up? does not plug in? so there are no identifing marks of any kind? most have a VIN etched in to the case on the side, set in a rectangle. easy to do if the trans is out of the car. look for it.

the power steering niose is an o-ring on the suction hose on top of the pump. one bolt, 10 minutes, 1 o-ring.

stuart?? where?? i know a fellow who has an 02 H6 LLBean auto trans for sale, 125K i think.. his car was wrecked. i bought my H6 VDC cheap with a bad trans @160k miles.