johnceggleston

my 61 chevy pick up had positive crankcase ventilation ... it was a tube hanging off the side of the block venting the crankcase. it was positively ventilating and driping with oil.

since i am not perfect, for years i have used as my motto, "everyone makes mistakes, it's how you correct them that's important."

it appears as no one has answered your question directly. well dont get excited, neither am i. the question becomes whether or not they changed the under carrige , suspension and wheel parts, when they redesigned the legacy in 95. i don't know, but my guess is not totally. but it will cost you about 50$ to get a strut from the junk yard and swap it your self. then you'll know.

it is inside the extention housing. look here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50543 and here: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/?

you are right, according to car-part.com they were 6 used in 2.2L lagacys in 97, two of the 6 are designated as "calif". most dealers and shops only go by matching part numbers, they would say you can't put a 2.2 engine in an outbach. but you can. they would say you can't put a 96 leg a/t in a 95, but you can. i was just wondering if any one knew any swapability for ecu's. but unless you're going to a local parts yard that will let you bring it back if it doesn't work, there's no reason taking a chance. get the exact match. car-part.com prices vary from 50$ to 150$. you will need your part number when you search, something like "22600 a020". i can't remember exactly. good luck. john

this is just my observation, but based on the fact that some of the engines / trans are plug and play with the same ecu, there may be several from similar years and models that would work. what do you think?

got the car back. the only paperwork was the receipt for the 100$, 50 for the tow, and 50 for the ticket. they towed it 0.4 miles to a lot. i can't believe they would tow it front wheels down with all the front wheel cars around. they "never piggyback" cars, probably don't have that truck, that makes them cheaper, that's why the college usews them. but at the very least they draged it out of the parking space so they could get to the front of the car. but 0.4 miles ... it seems to drive well, no ill effects, so far. EDIT: i spoke to the towing company by phone, they put it on a dolly so no problem. they sounded very professional and knwe immediately that subaru was AWD. what a relief.

you all are amazing. your knowledge and patience are way beyond me. i'm just glad i don't have to deal with this problem. i'll bet you can find a used ecu for 50$, maybe less. that seems way easiler. of course it's only easier if it works. do you know some one you could swap ecus with just to test it. it would be interesting to see if your ecu threw a code in some one else's car. good luck.

my 970bw has a cripm in the csatle nut to hold it in place rather than a cotter pin ... same difference. but if not crimped, or torqued properly then it could losen. i also hear that with new axels come new castle nuts(?). does it look newer than the left? if this were on the left side of the car it may not have loosened.

if you just had TB, i would say flush it again, but like they said, with the at temp light, it's the duty c, flushing is not going to change that. who did the flush? did they pull the a/t pan? is it possible they damaged something inside by accident? i'm always suspecious when something fails right after service.

95 leg sedan 2.2L awd. get the wagon if she needs more room. my opinion, you gain nothing going with the 2.5L since they are geared differently. it doesn't sound like you / she will need the higher ground clearence. the automatic gives you computer controled AWD. and the 95 2.2L is bullet proof, a non-interferrence engine. 96 would be my second choice.

3/16" PUNCH!!! don't use 1/4". there are horror stories about getting them stuck.

it's an automatic. but i've been thinking about it. he said he parked it nose in, this means the rear wheels were accessable. if they towed it with the front wheels down, in park, i'm screwed. but they probably didn't. i just put the transmissin in 3 months ago. thanks for the responses. as soon as i hear i'll fill you in. john

my son had his car towed at college yesterday. he reports that they probably didn't piggyback the car but towed with 2 wheels down (front). he's not sure yet. i know the potential problems with towing 2 wheels down. what is the towing company's responsibility for damaging a car they tow? any one have any ideas? thanks, john

for 2k$ or less you have a good car. where are you going to get the same quality for 2k? just make sure the engine you put in has new head gaskets. go to kbb.com and check the value of your car in good condition. then subtract the engine replacement. this is about what your car is worth as is. someone will but it , put in a used motor themselves and have a great , cheap car. you can do the engine for less than 2K$. you could even go with a 95 2.2L engine. fix it.

goes with out saying, use the old trunk layout as a pattern for the new.

ok... the lower left corner of the picture is the front of the car. the 'v' notch in the center of the tank faces forward. the pictur is confusing because the filler neck is on the right of the diagram, but actully connects to the rear left in the diagrem and of course the filler is on the right of the car , passenger side. the fuel lines on the lower right of the diagram, run along the floor on the driver side of the car under the carpet up to the front, engine compartment and the fuel filter. the blob near #9 and the other 2/3 items along the fuel line run is/are probably mounting brackets or clips of some kind. where did you find the gas leak?. is the floor or carpet wet?. i think you said driver side. how far back from the drivers seat mounting blots?. is the leak actually under the rear seat? the gas will not leak up hill, but if the leak is in the gas line, all of the gas in the line above the hole can leak out from that point. and the fuel fliter under the hood is almost as high as the hood. have you had any one working on your car / back seat area recently.? stereo or wiring work? car detailing?

correction: i'm going to store them at half pressure, stacked, in black garbage bags, in the shed, off the ground.

i'm going to store them. i don't think the price for used will be worth the effort to sell and murffy's law says if i get rid of them i'll need them. i'll put them in the shed, deflated, stacked, off the ground and covered. oh yeah, i won't waste any money buying armorall to spray on them. thanks.

if you get the 95 or 96 ADM 2.2, it's non-interfearrence, and bullet proof. so a few more miles shouln't make a difference. but what ever you choose, there may be small adjustments to make. (96 single port exhaust, 95 dual port). pre 95 intake does not have the erg needed. post 96 the 2.2 is interfearence engine. i don't know anything about the 97/98 2.2, but it may be the easiet swap. more similar to the 2.5. but if you want bullet proof, the 95 is the engine you want, fewer differences. who's doing the swap.?

shouldn't the car have an id tag under the hood, legacy's doo. it will list the enginse as ej22xxxxx or ej18xxxxx?

just out of curiousity. let us know what year, and model the trans comes from, and how it turns out.

i watched a mechanic do mine one day. he just used a long thin screw driver. push down on the center tab of each clip and gently pull, it unsnaps. i was impress, he didn't even look to see waht kind of clip it was . he knew.

you watch, there's going to be a spike in diff gear oil sales this weekend !!!!!!

thanks for all the feed back. you've helped me make my decision. john