johnceggleston

do you know what year the "new" diff came out of?? thats the only way you'll ever know. or open the both up and count the teeth, but thats not something i'd ever do. there are some web sites for parts that might help with what years are compatible. first subaru parts, or genuine subaru parts, or maybe car-part.com. you can search the year you have and see what others years will match. not a garrantee, but it might help. from what i've read recently, manuals don't match a/t's, and 2.5's don't match 2.2's. but the chances are good that a 90 leg man diff was used on lots of cars. good luck.

one of the yards in richmond, va has a tv commercial with daryl and his brother daryl, where they pay the buck just so they can watch the car crusher.

slightly off topic, a friend bought a used volvowagon turbo. the turbo failed the used car lot said tuff, what else would they say.? they had the repair done by a local independant quality shop. the turbo fails again. he replaces for free. the turbo fails again. 3 times. now he calls the supplier to find out what's wrong with their product. some one finally concludes that the engine had overheated in the past damaging both the turbo and the engine. and that now the damaged engine is ruining the turbos. they replaced the engine. does any of this make sense? i know nothing about turbos.

i went back and reviewed your story, correct me if i'm wrong: you bought a replacement short block retail price $4500 it fails, and they offer you a replacement at their cost (no profit) $3000 you write a letter and sit down and talk they offer to split the retail price, your half $2200 i would see if you can get them to split the no profit price. the 4500 price has 1500 profit in it. if you pay 2200 their cost is $800. does that sound fair?? also, every time you negotiate with them the price gets lower. keep up the good work. keep pushing them. they know you have a claim and they made a mistake or they would not offer anything. worst case senario, they quit talking and say "so sue me". or sell them the car? what will they buy it for.? tell them you want what you owe. another possibility, you provide the engine, they put it in for free. this allows you to shop for the engine . you can buy a used one for cheap, less money, more risk. but people do it all the time. i bought a wrecked 96 leg wagon for 400$. good engine, good trans, 125K. good luck

i'm not sure you want to see the guys at my yard dance!!!

if you are talking about on the starter, then yes. the big wire is from the battery, the smaller one is from the ignition, by way of a relay. (they don't send tons of amps thru the steering column.) in between the key and the starter there is at least one if not more saftey stops. such as the a/t saftey switch which won't let it start except in park or neutral. if it's not starting ever, you can test the voltage at that wire / connection on the starter when you try to start. mine however was intermitten and so it never fail when testing. i never tried jumping it from the battery when it wouldn't start. but in theory, if you turn on the key, and send 12v to the small connector on the starter, it should start. BE SURE YOU ARE CLEAR OF MOVING PARTS!!! it would be best to hard connect a wire to the starter and then put juice to the other end of the wire (pos. battery post.) BE SURE IT'S IN PARK AND THE BRAKE IS ON!!!!! stop sending volts when it starts. if it starts every time like this the problem is in between the the ignition and the starter. wiring, relay, cutout switch, or something. wiring diagram will help, i've never checked anything in betwen. good luck.

i've had similar problems in my 97obw. turn the key nothing. i swaped in a 96 leg 2.2 starter, it corrected the problem, for a while. it has recently (after 6 weeks of starting) begun to not start on the first turn of the key. my response is to turn off the a/c, lights, radio and try again. so far it has always started under these conditions. it's also 90 degrees outside, this may contribute. if so it's probably a battery thing. two thoughts, possible bad wire contacts, ground or positive.; bad cut out relay on the brake pedal or transmission neutral/park lock out. i had a similar problem on my pickup and i bipassed it by running a new wire to the starter. if the problem persists on my obw, i think i'm goint to run a new wire and install a push button to start, key on then push button. also when i swapped the starter, i tested both with 12v out of the car both worked great. i swapped it any way , and cleaned the contacts. what kind of contact cleaner is good???? and protectant??? good luck.

if it was overheating and losing coolant i wouldn't spend the money on additives. either replace the head gaskets or the engine.

dealer financing is always an option, but you should talk to another source so you'll know if the rate is competetive. this is another place dealers make extrs profit. you're there, you just decided to spend thousands of dollars, and you want it yesterday. why wouldn't you over look .5% for 5 years, it onle 100$ a month. the best i ever heard about negotiating with dealers was working 2 against each other. work the best cdeal you can in tallahasse, the ndrive to the next guy and try and do better. if he can, great, go back tpo the first guy and try again. what can go wrong. they don't sell you a car... like that's going to happen. and don't fall for that "if i can beat that price will you buy today" crap. tell them if they can'tt beat the price, there no chance you'll buy today. then start to leave.

let's see 360$ for the t-belt and stuff, akron, pa... that's 700 miles round trip, at 25 miles per gallon , which cost 3$ per gallon, plus a room overnight, hopefully he can do it in a day... he11, that still beates my guy by 125$. you're sleeping with his wife, right? he's paying you to sleep with her!!! where in akron did you say rhis guy was????

wake is fake and duke is puke, but the team i hate is nc state, GO TARHEELS!!! i guess it all depends on what it covers.

my brother bought an old olds station wagon for his 16 year old son to drive,... the license read "QE2". talk about a boat!!!

if you guys don't cut this out i'm going to have to throw away all my pink shirts!!

i used to use a liquid graphite, powder graphite suspended in an oil solution. it got the graphite everywhere, and then the oil dried up.

so, can you make any money renting out the rooms in that lincoln???

be glad you drive a subaru, my 90 nissan pickup does not unlock from the outside. the passenger door went firsat several years ago. don't ask me how, the least used lock broke first. recently the driver door lock qiit. i can manually lock them from the inside, but i need a slim jim to unlock the m from the out side. you should see the notes i leave in the truck when i take it to the shop for annual inspection. "DO NOT LOCK THE DOORS"!!!!! go subaru!!

my 95 leg had bad / turned rear rotors( i know because i swaped them off of my 97obw when i bought it. i had just put all new brakes on the rear of the 95 when the trans went bad.) the symtoms were: light braking = pulsation. heavy braking = no pulsation (a little at the beginning but as the front took over the braking job there was none.) i tried the hand brake thing to check the rear rotors, but the hand brake is drum the brake pedal is disc. i never got any feedback. but i knew the rears were bad, i had swapped them onto the car. so i replaced them. hope this helps.

how do you know it's a bad cat??. some dealers say bad cat when it could be bad o2 sensor. cats cost more and they make more, just a thought.

if you do the 4 screwa thing, double check too make sure you don't leave the parking lights on!!

i've reading post for almost a year, and i i've read a lot of people changing t-stats to cure over heat problems... but this may be the first time it was actually the cause of the problem. i guess there's a first time for everything.

passenger side, firewall, behind strut .

i assume you reconnected the rear drive shaft?? even if the front was kaput the rear should work .

this is a reprint from 2005 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44128&highlight=wrist+pin Re: Piston slap...? If you have piston slap that goes away when the engine is warm, neither the dealer or Subaru of Canada are going to do anything for you. You may be handed the following "Shop Talk". Subaru Shop Talk No. 02-02-97 Engine noise. In 1997, Subaru engines (1.8, 2.2 and 2.5) are more fuel efficient, more powerful and have a flatter more usable torque curve than their predecessors. To achieve these seemingly opposite objectives, it was necessary to bring many improvements and modifications to the Subaru engine line up. Following are some of those improvements: 1. Mechanical valve lash adjuster (reduces friction) 2. Light weight pistons (reduces inertia) 3. Short skirt, Molybdenum coated pistons (reduces friction) 4. Increased compression ratio (improved power output) 5. Improved cylinder head design (improves cooling) 6. Inertia resonance induction system (improves breathing) The only drawback to these enhancements may be some engine noise after a cold start-up. This noise is a consequence of the engine improvements and is not a precursor to future engine problems. If a customer complains of cold engine knock, please reassure him/her that no permanent engine damage will occur. If the noise persists and is still clearly audible when the engine is warm, please consult your DASM. Please do not hesitate to contact your DASM if you should have any questions or comments. SUBARU CANADA, INC. --------------- You would have the Phase II engine, but it still pretty much applies. The general consensus on this board is that if it goes away when the engine warms up, it really won't do any harm. Other makes suffer from this as well. My ex's 99 Honda Odyssey with the 3.5L V6 engine developed piston slap as well before hitting 100k km. Oh well. Commuter

talked to i service manager today at a local shop. they service 26 of the 50+ impreza which are ownd and operated by Carillion hospitals in roanoke va. not surprisingly, when ever they retire one, it never hits the classifides. generally the courrier who drove it 200k, buys it. in 26 cars with over 2 million miles not one bad head gasket!!! subaru is a great car.!!

i bought a 97 obw with "engine noise - will need engine work". mechanic said it was a wrist pin, wrote it down on the ket tag. turns out its piston slap. i'm still driving it 10k mi. so far. the dealer who sold it (not subaru) didn't know what they were talking about. ask your guy about piston slap. there is an old thread or link that tells a way to test for and isolate piston slap. try searching "piston slap" or "wrist pin". either way piston slap or rod knock, it should be under warranty. now your fight is with subaru. call them up and start talking. what have you got to loose!!!!???? i don't know at what temp those tabs go at, but if it happened in the first 2 months, it's their fault!!!!! good luck, john