johnceggleston

has any one tried removing the cross bars but leaving the side rails to see if this makes a difference?? might be easy to store the cross bars in the back and mount them when needed. john

it's a direct swap. and if you pull the spring / strut as a unit you don't need the spring compressor. what are you going to do about wheels & tires? stay with 14" or step up to 15" 205/70r/15. basically you're making it an outback without the differential.

i'm not sure the correct tool is going to work now that you have a broken drill bit in there. it may, but it was designed to drive a pin that was unobstructed. you may have to drill.

i pulled the fuel pump / sending unit out of mine from behind back seat, and it looked to me as though the fill tube extended through the wall of the tank. my guess would be that the filler is welded to the tank wall. but that's a guess. the top end of the filler tube mounts on the inside of the rear quartes panel, and there is a section of flexible tubing, w/clamps,connecting it to the rest of the filler tube. i wonder why you haven't gotten a CEL with a hole in your tank. from others, it sounds like you could get a light if you leave the cap off.

there's nothing like a j trap on the tank, but i think i get what you mean. every time you fill up, it leaks the same amount, then stops. the leak is either in the filler tube or the tank. ( i guess it could be in the fuel lines/ vapor lines). so it either leaks from the filler tube which is in the top of the tank or the tank it self. if it's the filler neck/tube it going to leak while filling or as long as ther is fuel there. if it's the tank, it's going to leak as long as the tank is that full. once the level goes down, it won't leak. my guess is the filler. that's the only "leak" i've heard about here. but it could be something eles. the bad news is ... you have to pull the differential to remove the gas tank. i'd try running with just a half a tank for a while t otry and locate the leak. another thought, and if this is dangerous some one tell me... use the out put of a vacuum cleaner to blow air into the tank opening. use smoething to help seal around VC hose and the fill opening. then listen for the hissing of escaping air. good luck!!

not to hijack the thread, but how does the gas tank transfer gas from one side to the other. haynes mentioned a 'jet pump'. is that it and how does it work. i was checking out the sending units and didn't see any side to side connection. john

if it only leaks after you fill up. don't fill up, just put in 3/4 tank.

not very many of us have a lot of experience dealinf with insurance companies. that being said, my neighbor's chrysler 300 was run into by a little old lady. he took it upon himself to find an identical replacement car, make, model, year, miles, color, and options. he then told the insurance co. that this was the value of his car. of course they said it wasn't their job to replace his car... he agreed, but he showed them an equal ( or better) car for sale to "prove" the value of his car. so... don't take their first offer. make them work for it. you only get one chance. once you take thje check, you're done. you should do their homework for them. regardless if you buy back the car, you should have the money to start over. just my $.02 worth.

if it makes noise with the clutch in matbe it's the throw out bearing. and haynes says to check the door lock relays under the dash first!! bad relay or loose connect may be the problem. 2 doors not locking is not an "in the door" problem in IMHO.

where does the infamous "o-ring" i've heard so much about, go. is it large or small.

i'm not seeing a difference!! did i miss something?

but they do break. i bought my 95 leg 2.2L sed, 73k miles, with a brokren sway bar. order one from car-part.com and i was goo \d to go.

i completely removed the exhaust fro m a 96 leg 2.2L wagon 125k miles. i was going after the transmission. at the heads, none of the 4 nuts was a problem, but on both sides, one nut came off and one stud came out. i don't remember if both nuts were front or rear, but i do rememeber one nut and one stud on each side. at the catalytic connection, these were spring loaded (i think, i know the next connection was) and both came apart ok. use a penetrating oil, the more the better. i had no problems with any of my exhaust bolts. i think the leakiness of the engines helps in this area. john

that was my first thought. what's the car doing?? why did you check the codes in the first place? did the light come on or did you notice a difference in how it runs / drives? leave the battery cable off over night, run the car for a day and then check the codes. anything that comes up then will be current.

what a great car!! the outback pluses, height, look, etc. but the 2.2L engine. what a deal!!

so pin 6 is for the abs system. how about pins 1-5??

someone wrote a few weks ago that there were 2 type of ac units in lagacys (i may have forgotten the details) and replacement parts have to match the make and model of AC in the car. am i remembering correctly?

do you remember if the yellows were front, rear, left or right????

no problem pulling the axel/hub out? i've heard stories about have to beat on them.

so let's review, manual trans, tow with all 4 on the ground, never 2 up & 2 down or 2 rear down, drive shaft disconnected. auto trans, tow only with all 4 up, never all 4 down or 2 rear down, drive shaft disconnected.

are you sure your reader is good???

i haven't replaced one but i've taken them apart. it's easy... one bolt, unthread it. what's wrong with your brakes?/?

unbelievable... you are in the cat bird seat!!!!!! pick the one you think runs, drives, feels better. go and work the best deal you can. work it hard, try and get it for nothing!!!! tell him there's another in better condition for less. if you can't get the one you want.... go buy the other. i prefer legacy, better engine, you can drive it 100k without problems. by then you'll be ready to move up to a 95!!!!!! truth be told, i don't know loyales. john

also, some of the money yuo save could be spent going to texas or fla. to pick your new rust free car. good luck.

burn marks you can't do much about but replace, yes the cloth panel comes out after you remove the door panel. and on the sedans, the rear seat bottom, (top too for that matter) is extruded formed foam, covered by the cloth. almost no metal in them. i just had mine out, i was giong to replace, but instead, i hosed them down, scrubbed them , hosed them and then stood them up to drip dry. you wouldn't beleive the "cola" that came pouring out of them. they look pretty good now.