johnceggleston

free!!!

if youare working on the trans wait and do it then al at once. by the way you don't have to start a new theread for each question.

i'm not sure about the term transfer clutch, may be the real name or a hold over from the big 4x4s. the rear end of the a/trans has a computer controled clutch that send power to the rear wheels when the front wheels spin. torque bind is the rear wheels locked, always powered. 2 causes, 1.bad duty c solenoid, 2. diry build up in vale seat of duty c solenoid. bad cases of tporque bind need new clutches, $950; lessor problem can be solved by flushing the trans fluid ($125) or replacing the duty c ($50 part plus 3 or 4 hours labor). the 95 is likely to have the dirty build up, if the clutch is not bad , flushing may help. the 98 should have the corrected trans. does your A/T TEMP light come on and flash at you when you start the car.??

what are you driving, year model trans miles engine? the 95 could be fwd, but not the 98, look again. does the trans have a drive shaft out the rear?

i agree. it has to be electrical. what sensor would measure what to give a 'grea ratio' cel. as much as i'd like to sell you my 99 a/t, i think that's just the dealers solution for evrything. i went in asking about my duty c solenoid and what codes were in the system (a/t temp light code). they said i needed a clutch pack. yeah... but what code... you need a clutch pack...$950.

i'd put in a 2.2 and then decide to sell or not. if you do it , what's it cost, $500?? you want to play around with the 2.5 afterwards and rebuild / sell then you have time.

to quote someone much smarter than i , the CEL means something isn't quite right; :(you should go a auto parts store (autozone) and have the codes read. then you'll know some thing. a flashijng CEL means stop the car and send lassie for help. the codes will tell you whats wrong, then maybe some one can give you a hint for the fix. good luck, john

it sound like it's only one area/cylinder. one of the reasons i kept it and looked for a donor car was that i had just spent 600 on t-belt, front seals and water pump. i hope , but don't know, if the o ring? on the oil pump was done. when the tranny goes in so does the rear seal. thanks for the input, john

thanks, i'll give it a try. john

my 95 leg 2.2l has been sitting for a year waiting for a a/t. i started the car occasionally until the battery died. now i find that there is a ticking noise when i start it up. checked and added oil, still there. i can't drive it untiol i get the trans replaced but i'm worried that the engine is hurt. suggestions on what product to use to help clean / correct my engine noise. i hear that changing the oil often will slowly clean the engine. is there something else that will help, seafoam perhaps. that's all the rage here , but seems complicated. thanks,john

that was my guess but i couldn't think through the power on /off to the solenoid deal. i've seen the park lock on a 97 a/t and it's pretty simple. it's in the awd clutch housing on the rear end of the trans. besides i don't remember jacking with out the e-break on. i guess rear disc would be a reason.

thanks for the update, let us know. gas filler is not a part i would have thought of selling if parting out a car. for those of you willing to run with the cel on, how do you know when a new problem occurs??

more info, was one wheel up or both rear? open differentials with both wheels up, one will spin one way and the other will spin in reverse. i don't know if only one wheel up. i don't know if the awd clutch sending power to the rear is locked or loose when power is off.

the rear pinion seal needs to be torqued to 'existing' inch pounds. which means you have to measure the torque before dismantling it. is the front diff axel seal similar?>

i've noticed a similar condition, but since the tach didn't flutter, i figured it was a "slow to down shift" problem. does that change your thoughts any. yes my plugs and wires are just as old and need to be cganged, but i was just wondering. john

rumor has it that if you disconnect the battery cable for about 30 minutes the computer will clear any stored codes, then when your cel comes on you know it's for a current problem. however , i would record the stored codes before clearing them. so you will have some history.

i'm not real sure how you would go about doing it , but if you could trick the computer into thinking the sensor was ok by wiring in the correct size resistor, then you could systematicly eliminate each component in question. you'd need to know the correct resistance of each sensor, it may be that many are the same. resistors are cheap.

what kind of plugs are you using??

thanks for the info. john

don't forget the rear seal.

slightly off topic, i'm getting ready to pull a 96 2.2l engine (w/125k) which i was going to hang on to in case my 97obw 2.5 w/ piston slap went head gasket bad. (i need the 96 4eat trans and most of the interior for my son's 95 leg sed w/ 167k miles.) what is the right way to store an engine? or would it be better to sell it and buy one when and if i need it ? thanks, john

i was asking about pulling a trans from a donor car a few weeks ago, and someone replied that if you are pulling both engine and trasmission, pull them together from the top. much less work. they come out as a unit.

for what it's worth my 90 nissan pickup uses the same ignition switch as subaru (95-97 anyway). i had intermitten trouble with my pickup until it became constant. i think it was the lock out / saftey switch on the clutch pedal, but never confirmed it. i ran a new wire from the ignition wiring in the steering column to the starter and i've had no problem since, (3 years). and yes i have turned the key with the truck in gear and the clutch out and it does jump. but i only do it every now and then, and i always use the hand break. always. good luck, john

you left off the brighton... basic car, no power options.

i thought outbacks had a 1000 lbs. max trailer weight. why the need for a class II hitch?