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Everything posted by johnceggleston
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if 1324 has not seen the car, and she is not car smart, and has an ej22 engine, what are the chances she really has bad head gaskets? the shop telling her this could be looking for an ''upgrade sale''. go in for an oil change and a CEL and you get, ''would you like head gaskets with that?'' tell her to get a second opinion. and make sure she does NOT tell the second shop, ''i think it's the head gaskets''.
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i know the 95 auto trans is EGR. i think the manual trans is non-EGR. so if she has an auto trans car, she will want an engine from an auto trans car, or do the work around. but she could also use the 90 - 94 engine and her 95 intake manifold and do the work around if needed. lots of options. i'll take her 95 engine.
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Help somebody 2004 Subaru FXT What to do?
johnceggleston replied to zombie's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
ok, forester 04 turbo engine are cheaper, $2500. -
Help somebody 2004 Subaru FXT What to do?
johnceggleston replied to zombie's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
what she said. what is an FXT? Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market put in your zip and sort by distance to see what is close. shipping will probably cost about $150. if you sell it as is, you will not get much for it, $2000 max, just a guess. buy a used engine for $3500, the turbo may be extra. so still expensive but not $8k. or look for a parts wreck for sale in your area on www.craigslist.org BTW, there is a replacement ''banjo'' bolt for the turbos, i think. the original one was a weak point in the design. you might contact SOA, suabru of america and complain. a well maintained suabru should not have turbo / engine failure at 76k miles. they might help you out. it will not cost you anything to ask. -
ivans is an extremely talented and experienced suabru mechanic. and i am very impressed that he can open and repair an auto trans. i am one of those who thinks there is some kind of magic inside that is beyond my abilities. i would just swap in a used trans. less labor, R & R only, no dismantling, more money ~$400, maybe. there should be plenty of good used trans in the boulder area, or near by. BTW, i drove my 95 lego for several months with no reverse. you just have to be careful where and how you park.
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the 03 ej25 really is not a good candidate for an ej22 swap. an ej22 will swap in, but there are only 2 years that are compatible, 99 - 00. you can swap in another ej25 into your baja. use 00 - 03/4 ej25 long block, (with heads) and use your intake, cam / crank sprockets. this swap is common and easy. is your baja a turbo? that would change things.
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if it is HLAs it isn't going to kill your engine. it is loud and a pain, and it may not run as efficiently, but no major damage. if it is rod knock, it will not last long. buy a mechanics stethoscope and see if you can isolate the noise. common oil leaks: 5/ cam and crank seals , behind the timing cover. 4/ valve cover gaskets 3/ oil fill spout gasket 2/ power steering reservoir o-ring and the #1 most common oil leak on a 90s ej22 is (drum roll please) the oil separator plate on the rear of the block behind the fly wheel / flex plate. you have to pull the engine to replace it. most folks assume it is the rear main seal because of the leak location, but they rarely leak. buy a couple of cans of brake clean from the parts store and spray off, clean, the under side of the engine. then check it every day to see where the oil appears first. remember, the oil runs down and back, so your leak is above and in front of the wet spot.
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yes. plug and play. and EGR is a non-issue if the ej22 comes from an auto trans car. they had EGR. to be honest, i do not know if the part numbers are the same or not. but i do know that an ej22 will run just fine in a 96 - 999 outback car with the factory ECU. tons of folks have done this. the ECU is a non-issue. this is an easy swap. as mentioned, use the flex plate from your outback and install it on the ej22. the one that came on the ej22 is smaller and will not fit. DO NOT disconnect the AC compressor lines. just unbolt the bracket from the block and ''flop'' the whole thing out of the way when pulling the engine. then flop it back when the new engine is in place and blot it to the block. (i also flop it back if there is any delay between pulling and installing the engines.) if you have access to the ej22 power steering lines, i would swap them as well. the ones in your outback will work just fine, but the support brackets do not mate with the ej22 heads. if you use the ej22 lines it will look like a factory install. i'm not sure if jarl stated this correctly, but use all of the intake plastic that came on the outback originally. good luck.
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i would bet it is the HLAs, (hydraulic lash adjusters) or lifter tick as you call it. first make sure the oli level is correct. my 95 would start to tick when the oil level got low. then i would pull the driver side rocker assembly. you already plan to replace the valve cover gasket, so you will be half way there. NOTE.do nor over torque the bolts when reinstalling the rockers. they can and will snap. then i would remove the HLAs or a few of the them, and i would clean and re-prime them. it isn't hard to do. i have read a couple of threads where some replacements were required. one guy did this only to have a couple of them collapse again in a few days. the other thing to check is your oil pressure. if the pressure is low it may not pump up the HLAs enough. if the pressure is low, pull the oil pump and check the screws on the back of the pump. they can work loose and reduce the pump efficiency. this would be good to do when replacing the timing belt and all the idlers. if you can borrow a oil pressure tester, i would probably do this first. less work..
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the 95 - 98 ej22 will swap in to the 99 outback ej25 car. however there are some conditions. the ej22 must have EGR, so it needs to come from an auto trans car. the 96-98 ej22 will need the matching exhaust y-pipe, they changed the exhaust ports in 96. completely false. i have done 2 of them. 95 from an auto trans car is the preferred engine. it is plug and play. there are lots of threads on this, search ''ej22 swap''. 96 - 98 from an auto trans car will work with the matching y-pipe, (exhaust manifold). 95 and 96 ej22s are non-interference engines. GL.
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i have not done HGs on an ej22. but the engine is pretty forgiving. and i'm pretty sure they are graphite gaskets. so almost any gasket will do. one guy joked that he made a head gasket for his lawn mower out of a coke can. and suggested the ej22 was almost as simple. but i don't recommend you try coke cans. if you have the time, order some online. this is the only time i would even consider evergreen HGs on ebay. but given the price of the dealer gaskets i'm not sure price is a reason to buy after market. they just don't cost that much. if time is an issue, buy from the parts store or the dealer. dealer wholesale price is probably cheaper than parts store felpro. i have never heard of an ej22 HG failing after install.
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two possibilities for the ''back firing'' and high idle, probably a vac leak, spray some car cleaner or the like around the engine bay while idling. if the engine revs you have located the leak. or check your timing, back fires are usually a timing issue. i'm not an expert, but this is where i would start. the speed seanor could be the speedo cable. the sensor is part of the speedo head, but the cable is a weak point in a 20 y.o. car. and not uncommon. i'm assuming this is an AWD car. the flashing power light at start up indicates there is /was an electrical problem in the auto trans during the last drive cycle. (if you start the car and do not drive it, the power light will, should, may, not flash on the next start.) the most common cause is the duty C solenoid on the transfer clutch in the rear extension housing of the trans. this controls how much power is directed to the rear wheels, and it's failure will cause binding in slow tight turns. give it a test drive in slow tight turns. duty C test, there is a fuse holder under the hood, passenger side, at the fire wall near the wiper motor. put in ANY fuse and the car will be come FWD and there will be a FWD light on the dash. if the duty C is bad, the light will not come on. the duty C is working the light will come on and any binding should be gone. do a search for ''how to read trans codes'' and you can learn exactly what is causing the power light to flash. the temp sensor can cause starting issues, but i have never heard of it causing back fires. it sounds like once it warms up and reaches ''closed loop'' the computer compensates for what ever is causing the issue.