johnceggleston

to get rid of the code you will need the intake with EGR. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137829-using-a-non-egr-engine-in-subaru-with-egr-exhaust-gas-recirculation-valve/ ''search'' is your friend.

Speedo Gear Replacement In-Car? ''search'' is your friend.

the light also indicates low brake fluid. check the master cylinder. and add a little, not much. the fluid level goes down as the brake pads wear. if you fill up the master cylinder with fluid, it may over flow when you replace the pads. unless you have a fluid leak. so add a little fluid, and check your brake pads, probably the front.

you must be the unluckiest subaru owner in the world. the only positive thing so far is that the head gaskets are ok. thank goodness for the reliable? ej22. first the water pump that will not seal. and now the steering pump that will not seal. unbelievable. i can understand why your frustration. i wish i could help more. .

could it be a wiring issue? mice, dirt, loose connector?

i found this by googleing: http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/thermostat-malfunction-2639.html?s=a6542737f370e31b5d5e8a1795921985&

the steering pump leak is likely the o-ring between the reservoir and the pump. it takes about 30 minutes to replace.

don't waste your time or money, none of them will work, and you will likely clog up the radiator add to your problems. do some reading here, do a search. you may be able to drive it for a while with a vented rad cap, or maybe with no t-stat. more info on the gasket failure please?

you cannot flash the codes on an obd2 subaru. you have to read them with a cose reader. take it to a parts store and they will do it for free. be sure to write down the code number. not just the guys explanation of the cel.

on the auto trans, there is a small plug like thing that sits in between the speedo cable and the speedo gear shaft mounted in the front diff. you just pop it out and the speed sensor will thread right on and mate with the speedo gear shaft. the speed sensor is longer and sits deeper in the housing. i would ASSUME the manual trans is the same, but i do not know for sure. i have never worked with one. good luck.

gary, how about cutting a 2x4 so it sits cross ways in between the fenders where the hood does, and position it up near the radiator. then if your max lift is not enough, you can lower the trans end on the 2x4 and level it out. then you can add another chain or strap or whatever to the trans end . this will help level the whole thing up. of course, re-installing it could be a problem.

my 95 lego would chirp the tires in FWD.

i would probably be hesitant to ask this of a shop that does not want to do the head gaskets, but my next question would be , how about an engine swap, would you do that work? buy a JDM import engine and just swap it in. it probably will cost about the same, but it might be a faster turn around. but regardless, it is another solution.

if there is snow on the ground, or wet grass or similar, i have tested mine by sitting side ways on the hill, and punching the gas. when the wheels spin, front or rear, that end of the car will side slip down the hill. i did this in wet leaves. this is not a perfect test, obviously.

read the code and report back. this should point you in the right direction.

my first guess was low oil levels. i had a leaky 95 ej22 that would click when the oil got low. add oil and the click went away. how was / is your oil level.? but it sounds like you have address that. with HLAs noisy is not deadly. it probably will not run as well and quiet properly working HLAs is better than noisy non-working ones, but it is not going to kill your engine. i would add some kind of engine cleaner with the oil for a few hundred miles. i have done this on new used engines to ''clean it up'' after install. it is possible , maybe, that you have dirt in the oil galleys feeding the HLAs. other folks, when installing an new used engine with HLAs that are clicking, recommend a ''spirited'' drive to loosen them and to pump them up. i am more confident in a bottle of MMO, or even just some AFT added to the oil and letting it idle. each to his own. do you know the history of the engine? has the oil pump been resealed lately. there have been stories of excess RTV oozing into the oil pump and flowing with the oil into the cam shaft assembly. iirc, this was on ej25s. but the next time you remove an assembly, try blowing it out with air. obviously it is not the HLA, it has to be the oil supply. good luck.

a very talented and knowledgeable subaru mechanic who posts here every day claims to use no gasket. he just uses RTV, like the oil pump. i did a timing belt / water pump change once, and i failed to tighten one of the bolts. i just missed it. it leaked like a sieve. that is when i learned to refill with water until you are sure there are no leaks. and to test run the engine with the t-belt on, but the covers off, to see if it is right. way easier to go back if the covers are not yet on.

look for an open vac line. this sounds like an air leak.

why? as long as it is not flopping around and rubbing on the belt , who cares. there are lots of folks, some off roaders, who run without covers. covers do protect the belt form dirt water snow and damage, and more protection is better than less, but a little less is not going to ruin your engine.

no. the piston position is absolutely determined by the crank shaft position. look at the crank shaft , find the slot for the keey. turn the crank the shortest distance, either direction, so the slot lines up pointing down or up. DO NOT turn it so the keyway (slot) passes 9 or 3 o'clock. you should be turning it less than 90 degrees. this will make it safe to turn the cam shafts. you are going to need a crank bolt to do it from the front. but you may be able to do it from the rear using a flywheel bolt. turn it slowly. if you feel or hear it hit something , STOP. but if you turn it less than 90 and it lines up either up or down, you will not feel it hit anything. once the crank is in the right position, you can turn the cams to their correct position.

tip: when you have the pump off, replace the o-rings on the suction line on top of the pump from the reservoir. they can some times leak and cause a noise from the pump sucking air. it is cheap and easy and eliminates a future failure. having said that, it is so east to do, only one bolt, it is no biggie if you don't.

SOHC or DOHC? the double cam is a little more dangerous. the good news is that the spring loaded valves tend to slam closed, removing them from action. this is especially true on the single cam ej engines. on the double cams, the cams move independently of each other. so one could slam shut while the other is sitting still. this COULD cause valve damage. but with the the engine off, and the belt missing, unless you force something, more often than not, there will not be any damage. ESPECIALLY if the crank is in any position except 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock. only at 3 and 9 are there any pistons at the top of the stroke. but as mentioned, at 6 or 12 all pistons are at mid stroke.

i'm not sure, but probably. it certainly explains why the fuel is not there at the right time. and possibly why the spark is off. odds are good that replacing the timing belt and all idlers, and the water pump will get you back on the road. these engines are very forgiving. if you want to spend some time, and money if you have a shop do it, reset the timing and fire it up. it will not run long, it may jump immediately and not start. but there is a chance it will fire right up. glad you solved it. EDIT: having jumped that far off, there is a good chance that something is busted, like the toothed idler. which stripped some teeth off of the belt, or something. check the tensioner when replacing the belt. usually they do not need replacement, but maybe this time.

what trans? i'm not sure an auto trans will die if you rest it as described. a manual probably will. but don't test it for too long since it will wear the viscous coupling. what makes you think the AWD is not working. more often than not, subarus fail in a torque bind mode, meaning not FWD, but locked FWD. like a 4wd truck with locked hubs on dry pavement. what is your car doing? what is your car not doing? year, model, trans, miles, ?

ok, the nasioc thread reminded me. the phase 2 set up is a little different. the TC does not seat quite a ''flush'' as the phase 1 TC. i have only worked with one phase 2 trans, and that was to deliver it to the shop to install it. hth