johnceggleston

i'm not familiar with 90 - 94, so i can't say. but if there was a change as small as the badging or the reflector, then the interchange software will think it will not fit. i think. when in fact it may. but i do know there were some small body changes in between 90 - 94. i don't know exactly when or what kind. but to make it easier look here: http://www.car-part.com put in your zip and sort by distance. i would ignore any difference suggested by turbo vs. non-turbo.

the 00 auto trans is one that has the ''slow to engage problem'', right? perhaps this is the first symptom. doubtful i know but maybe. so after you try everything else, ty a bottle of Trans-X. have you tried shifting to 2, or 1 to see if it will move.? and nippers question, have you tried when it is cold.?

ej22s 90 - 96 are non-interference. ej22s 97 - 00 are interference. so you need to assume yours is interference. i do not recommend testing for that by setting the valves open and turning the crank over with the starter. make sure you know the right timing marks to use.

water in the gas will cause head aches, but if your gas has ''up to 10% ethanol'' i doubt it will be a problem. alcohol absorbs water, so you would have to have a lot of water in the system. and years ago i heard that the active ingredient in those gas additives was in fact alcohol. but i don't really know and that was 30 years ago. plus, frozen gas is not going to keep the battery from turning the engine over. battery and cable connections first. start there and see if that helps. use the block heater, and if you must, move to florida.

> TIMING BELT ARTICLES <____________________________ > Timing Belt Pictures < how much trouble may depend on what year you are working on? what year?

btw, wd40 was designed to help dry out parts. spray some on your wire connectors? spark plug tubes, etc. it can't hurt. not sure about the ecu, but maybe. since you have a replacement, worst case you waste some wd40. i have a car that went in the water when launching a boat, salt water. the ecu went bad almost immediately, and slowly over time the hand brake cables started sticking, the gas door release cable is seized, one caliper is stuck, not sure if this is water related, and i just installed a used mid-pipe and muffler. the muffler was ok but the pipe from the cats back had several rust through spots. and the driver side? door switch for the dome light is bad, the light does not come on. it has taken 2-3 years for all of this to happen. this should give an idea of what to look for and spray. fresh water may not be as big of a deal.

PARK IT AND WAIT A MONTH. OR HEAT THE GARAGE AND WAIT A LITTLE LESS. PULL THE PLUGS, REPLACE THE OIL, AND WHEN THE TIME COMES, TURN IT OVER WITH THE STARTER WITH THE PLUGS OUT OF THE ENGINE. ONCE YOU ARE SURE THERE IS NO WATER IN THE CYLINDERS, THEN INSTALL THE PLUGS AND TRY STARTING IT. TIME IS ON YOUR SIDE, DON'T HURRY.

get the igniter too. it is on the firewall right next to the trans dog bone . follow the wires back.

this is in fact the way you test to see if the front and rear diffs are matching. with the TCU unplugged, the front and rear wheels should be locked together. so turning one by hand should turn the other. (and if the diffs match they shaould turn the exact same number of times.) so it sounds like a transfer clutch issue. the basics: no fluid pressure = no power to the rear wheels this is why you can jack up the rear and spin the by hand with the engine off. putting the FWD fuse in ''dumps'', redirects?, all the fluid pressure. full fluid pressure = Torque Bind, front and rear locked together. trans fluid is operating the transfer clutch at full pressure, not regulated by the duty C. TCU disconnected or bad duty C. fluid pressure regulated by the duty C and the TCU = AWD, power to both the front and rear. the power split weighted more for the front, ~80 /20, but in certain situations it will approach 50/50. it never gets to 50/50, and it always allows for some slip between the front and rear. this avoids TB. i hate to see you give up, but i certainly understand. i don't think you need a trans, but probably a good working rear extension housing . the clutch disks may be worn out.

this^. any work done recently ? i had a really squirrelly issue with my 00 lego which was caused by a loose ground wire. i failed to tight the bolt holding the ground wire. but the problem did not occur for months, until i replaced an axle and knocked it loose. the trans would usually shift up to D but then for no reason it would down shift to 3. if i shifted in to 3, it would down shift to 2, sometimes. it gave me a flashing AT Temp light when i was driving . but not at start up, and no trans codes. i found one reference to a similar problem on line, here i think, in a 96 outback. and went looking for a loose wire. and i found it. i was really scared i was looking at a new trans.

#1 & 2 are on the same coil, the front half. #3 & 4 are on the rear half. so that might be it. the igniter, which feeds the coil, also operates front and rear like the coil so it could be that as well. i don't know which is more expensive? but used might be a good solution. they do not have a huge failure rate.

it sounds a little like torque bind. auto or manual trans? i sure would be sure, before i pull a trans. it could be the trans,and with 2 shops saying so it probably is, but it wouldn't be the first time a non-subaru shop mis-diagnosed a trans or torque bind.

there is some concern that the 251 block and pistons may interfere with the valves of the ej25d heads. and it is recommended that a thicker head gasket is used to eliminate that possibility. and i don't know if this concern is based on experience or speculation. but i do know you can use an ej251 block, 00 - 04 as a replacement for an ej25D, 96 - 98 block. but if the turbo head gasket is thicker, i would use that just in case. of course, the thicker gasket may offset any gain in compression from using the 251 block and pistons. what heads are you planning on using?

my 95 had intermittent TB. it seemed to pop up when the trans was hot. it was not consistent. so we put the fuse in and some times it would show FWD on the instrument cluster, and therefore no TB, and sometime not and it would have TB. once it got bad, more TB than not, i removed the rear section of the drive shaft and drove it FWD. i left the fuse in just for grins, and occasionally it would light the FWD on the dash. i assumed it was a TCU problem, but i never really found out. i know it wasn't a fluid problem. i changed it repeatedly. good luck.

first, is it in fact a 99 ej25d block? (count the engine to trans bolts) if yes, then it is in fact already a phase 2 block, ej251 . the 99 forester was / is a phase 2, ej251 SOHC engine. (maybe ej253 depending on the trans, but the same block) the 99 outback and GT were / are a hybrid engine from the factory, ej251 phase 2 block with ej25d DOHC heads and intake. i'm not sure what the internals are, except to say the phase 2 blocks must have the phase 2 crank with the thrust bearing in the 5th position.

there is nothing better than a true subaru new or re-man axle. except possibly one from MWE or wht ever it's called now. look for shawnW on this site, or retroroo.com, he sells them. next best, is new boots on your old subaru axles. even if it cost more than a cheap new or re-man axle from a parts store, it will out last longer. send him a message and ask. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142941-rebuilt-fwe-subaru-axles-now-listed-in-retroroo-ebay-store/

true, but is it better?

it is a different problem. the 00 trans is a bad seal, i think. trans-x corrects it for a time. the 98 problem is obviously different. time to look for a replacement trans. www.car-part.com

you can use the block from the 03, but not the heads or the intake if you are installing it in an 98 ej25D car.

this is the problem. all of my swaps have been auto to auto. but if there is a connector hanging loose, i would start there. if both engines are ej25D, i might swap the intakes, at least compare the connectors, to see if they are different. in all the posts i have read, i do not remember there being a wiring difference between auto and manual engines. but again, like you, i'm auto only.

the 3.0 final drive ratio is 4.11 the 2.5 legacy L auto trans final drive ratio is 4.11. they are a match. just like gloyale said. but what is wrong with your car?

get a used remote off ebay ($30) and program it to your system. this will allow you to easily turn off the alarm when it is activated, and it if you program the remote into the system 4 times, filling all the possible remote slots, you will eliminate error activations. Subaru Keyless Entry, Security Alarm, Immobilizer Key, Remote Start Systems. Most years and models or just unplug the wire connectors to the alarm ''box'' under the dash. this will disable the alarm, but it may also make your driver door lock manual.

the 90 block and heads will work fine, except for the EGR issue. buy an intake from a 95 - 98 ej22 with EGR and install it with the 90 ej22. you will have to do the EGR work around or tap the driver side head for the EGR pipe. and if it is an auto trans car you have to use the flex plate that matches the auto trans in the car. the exhaust is a non issue. DO NOT swap the ECU, it has to match the wiring in the car. so compare the cost of the 90 ej22 plus the cost of the intake to the cost of a 95 - 98 ej22 w/ EGR.

any chance the threads are stripped? it may be the same problem / solution, but if you are trying to remove the bolt that could explain the situation. drill a small hole, on the side?, and tack weld it back in place.

so just to review, you installed your 03 duty c and valve assembly into your 04 auto trans and you eliminated all the headaches you had been suffering. so this means an 04 auto trans will swap into an 00 - 03 car if you swap the duty c & valve assembly, right?