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Everything posted by johnceggleston
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front passenger side? P1700 = TPS sensor P1507 = IAC P1540 = speed sensor P0500 = speed sensor P0325 = knock sensor all of thees sensors have wires in one of the large connector on the rear of the engine. if you replace the passenger side axle, you must have knocked something loose or damaged something. check the connectors, as ivan said i have never replaced a right front axle when i did not reach down from above and work the axle onto the trans.
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that is a whole lot more than i would pay to replace an engine. i realize your situation is a bit odd, since your ej22 engine has an apparent burnt valve, but i would buy a used replacement engine from www.car-part.com. find one that is close to home, ($300 - $600, much less if you go to a pull-n-pay yard) and install it yourself. (free) or have a shop do it, (6 - 8 hours of labor, so $500 - $800) and do a timing belt & reseal front and rear before you install. ($250, plus labor) a much better answer would be to buy a used head for $100 - $150, add one head, plus intake and exhaust gaskets, ~$50. and you are back on the road . throw in a timing belt kit and front seals, just because, ~$175. less than $400, you'd pay more than that to have a shop change the timing belt. so my estimate would be from $200, just a head, to $750 for a good used engine.
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it allows the owner to use the remote to lock and unlock the car, AND it allows the parking attendant to lock and unlock with a key, without sounding the alarm. basically it is alarm OFF, the remotes will lock and unlock, but will not ''arm'' the alarm. you can still use the remote entry part of the system. when not in valet mode, any time you use the remote to lock, the alarm will sound when opened with a key. think of it this way, 2 drivers, 2 keys, 2 remotes. you loose a remote. until you replace the remote, you can't use the other one to lock the car, since anytime the driver with no remote opens with a key, the alarm will sound.
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some one has been servicing this car for him, ask his children, wife or grand children. or look for receipts in the car. but the only way to be sure, is to have the work done. head gaskets can fail all by themselves. the only way to help prevent that is to make sure the coolant has the subaru ''conditioner'' added to it. a timing belt failure, usually not the belt but a pulley, can bend valves and is expensive to repair. so sooner rather than later. but as mentioned, oil and fluids first.
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regardless of what tire you run, check your speedo against a gps. the best check is to drive 100 miles by the GPS and see what the trip meter reads. what ever the difference is, that is your percentage of error. then when you need tires, buy a size that is that percentage different than the ones you are running. the point is, IF, IF, IF your speedo reads 2 mph faster than actual now, the larger tires may only make it read 2-3 mph slower than actual. i wouldn't buy tires just to correct this error, but i would correct it the next time i needed tires. and i would cut back from driving 9 miles over the limit, maybe just drive 3 mph over.
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it allows you to unlock the car with a key and not sound the alarm. i think this is a bigger deal in the 00 - 04 years since the alarm is always on them. not sure of the exact details for 95 - 98 years. but it allows some one else to park your car without the alarm remote. read this: Subaru Keyless Entry, Security Alarm, Immobilizer Key, Remote Start Systems. Most years and models
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i have never seen this number. and i have been studying trans numbers for over 7 years. this is the number printed on your ''new'' trans? the best advice i can give you is to look at http://opposedforces.com/parts, in europe. as you track down the part number for the auto trans, it will show the trans ID#. i would look in the 95 - 96/7 years. maybe 94. the outback started earlier in JDM, and maybe europe. in the us, 95 - 99, the id# with a number 2 after the second Z were all 4.44. 95 - 99 with a letter after the second Z were all 4.11. but i'm nor sure europe matched this pattern. you can also pull the drain plug on the front diff, and count the teeth on the ring gear. 40 = 4.44 37 = 4.11 (possibly 3.7 but i hve never heard of a 3.7 auto trans ratio in a legacy.) 39 = 3.9 (or 3.54 but his was SVX only, i think) good luck.
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yes, reuse head bolts. felpro gaskets are fine as long as they are current , not old stock.
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i would think if it were the MAF or IAC, it would affect more than just one cylinder. but it can't hurt to clean them as long as you use the right stuff on the maf. but i think a compression test is going to be more telling. or hold a dollar bill over the exhaust pipe and see if it is ever sucked in. this could indicate a burnt exhaust valve.
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when cleaning the HLAs, you need to keep the check valve ball depressed, open, while you pump them. this allows the cleaning agent to work in and out much faster and more thoroughly. did you run this engine with these lash adjusters in place? how did it run? did it make noise? there must be another thread. it is not unusual for HLAs to be stuck after an engine has been sitting for a while. i let the engine idle for a long time until it frees them up. some folks call for a ''spirited'' drive to loosen them up. the point is , this is not unusual. but replacement is not often needed either. i will sometimes add a pint of marvelous mystery oil and drive it a couple of hundred miles. this has been known to help loose stuck adjusters. the best , safest, way to clean an engine is to change the oil often. but if you can get replacements for $0.51 each, have at it. but the ones in the yard have been sitting as well.
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the wiring in the 98 outback changes a little, at least in mine. i bought a 98 OBW with a bad engine, t-belt, and water damage. when i got the ej22 engine in, i learned the ECU was bad. i swapped i a 97 obw ecu and the car fired right up. but it threw a couple of codes. one was for the ''incorrect flow'' of the evap sysytem. i assume this was due to the charcoal canister being moved to the rear. and the other was for a ''traction control'' item which neither car had. when i finally got the right ECU for the engine, both codes went away. i also tried a 97GT, and a 96L ecu in the 98 and none of them worked right. the engine ran fine, but i had phantom codes. have you tried http://www.car-part.com for a used ECU? they should be pretty cheap. they don't fail very often. and car-part.com searches the entire country and some beyond. the ecu would be listed under ''computer box engine'', i think. price range from $15 to $200
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almost any oputbck for $500 is a deal. but if you should buy depends on how many miles, what shape it is in, and how much to replace the engine. and that is in fact what you should budget for, engine replacement. anti freeze in the oil is not the standard head gasket failure. in fact it is really rare. so on the one hand i might suspect a mis-diagnosis, but on the other hand he changed the oil so he must know what was in it, right? i don't have a lot of experience with anti-freeze in the oil, but i hear it creates an acid like solution that will eat your bearings. so if it is true, i would not try and save the engine, just start over with a used one. so for $500, i would buy it, drive it while looking for a replacement engine and see. see if it loses coolant, see what the oil looks like, see if the rest of it is worth keeping, see if you like it, see if you kind find an affordable engine, see if you can find some place to do the swap your self, or see if you can find a shop to do it for you at a good price. i think you can get $350 - $400, maybe more, for scrap value. so for $500 you don't have a lot to lose.
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i don't know what they sell for, but used should be a pretty safe investment. master cylinders do not fail often. if you go to opposedforces.com/parts , and look up your car and the part number for your master cylinder. then at the top of the rockauto.com page there is a tab for ''part number search''. put the part number in there and see what pops out. this may confirm your choice. given recent posts about rockauto's customer service, i'm reluctant to order any part i'm not 100% sure is the right one. but again, i would go used first, unless the price was the same. www.car-part.com i wish i had a $1 for every time i have posted that address. PS: just going thru the process at car-part.com will be educational. because of all the choices and options .