johnceggleston

this is interesting, at car-part.com for 96 only, starting in june, there is only one auto trans listed for cars with the ej25 engine. this means that OBW, GT?, LSi all have the same ratio, and all have the same speedo gears. i wonder if they all have the same speedo? maybe they just said screw it for 96 and let the error in the speedo live.? RE: software errors, or maybe the software is just not very detailed for that year. i have always wondered why they don't ask AT or MT when you search a 95 ej22 engine.? typically one has EGR and one does not. this must bee an error in the software design, or the ECU (and subaru) does not care which you use ???????? starting in 97, they list the outback, GT, and LSi separately. (each of these models have different size tires.) this sounds like the speedo gears are different.

so this means that the outback (4.44) and lego L (4.11) speedos are the same? i thought they were different, but maybe i'm thinking GT vs. lego L. 96 lego L wagon, A/T, 4.11 with 24.2 inch diameter tires. 97 OBW , A/T, 4.44 with 26.3 inch diameter tires

are you sure the head gaskets are bad? of course they can be, any part can go bad. but a gary said, i have not had any experience with bad ej22 head gaskets. on the contrary, i have seen ej22 quit running due to overheating. and then start back up when cool and keep running for years with no damage. and since there is so much talk about the outback head gaskets going bad all the time, i wonder if some of the ej22s selling recently with ''bad head gaskets'' are misdiagnosed. ? so be sure before you act.

the fozy trans is a 4.44 ratio. and this will affect your fuel economy and ''power output''. it will make your car ''quicker off the line''. you can compensate for this by using the fozy wheels and tires. (and struts.) the difference in ratio is almost the same as the difference in tire size. but the larger tire size will mean you are driving faster than the speedo says, about 8% i think. some have said it is not a noticeable difference, i don't know. i'm just going from the math. this speedo / odo error will also make it difficult to figure your true fuel economy. but the error, what ever it is, will be consistent. so once you learn what that is you can use that to adjust your speed and your MPG calculations. and somewhere down the road, you could always swap in an outback instrument cluster and eliminate the error. usually it is the filler neck which is replaceable. but there are some case of leaks on top of the tanks at the seams. assuming the reports are correct. WI, i guess you are in the rust belt? if you remove the plastic cover, you will see the problem and likely locate the leak pretty quickly. i repaired mine with JB Weld. it worked great, but i sold the car a year later so i don't know how it is doing now. but it was easier than replacing it and if it failed i could always replace it later. and i shortened the cover so it was not underneath the filler neck.

PS: when talking to a parts yard about your need, do not tell them you have a 95. tell them you need the trans they have listed on car-part.com. some yards will not sell you a 96 trans for a 95 car since their software tells them it does not fit. and they do not want the headache of a return. and they may void the warranty if you tell them it is going in a different year or model.

define loose? slop side to side? movement up and down? anything is possible, cheap part made the wrong size? wrong part pulled off the shelf? part damaged and installed incorrectly? what brand name was the part? how much did it cost?

the engine in the 99 forester is a phase 2 SOHC ej25, it will not swap into a 95. the trans will not swap UNLESS you used the matching rear diff as well. so you are limited to wheels, knuckles, spindles, struts, axles, brakes, wheels, tires, and maybe some of the drive shaft. but there are conditions on some of the above parts like, larger brakes require larger wheels. larger tires require taller struts. the 99 forester is not a good choice as a parts car for a 95 lego. a 96 - 98/9 outback would be a much better choice.

the common knowledge here is that the 99 - 00 ej22 is interchangeable with the 00 - 03/4 ej25. and i understand that and the reasons behind it. but i have read somewhere that you cannot swap a maf engine with a different displacement into a non-maf car. the computer has ''fixed''? fuel something or other in a non-maf car, i don't really know or remember. (i also do not know enough to know if this is true. or if it is for some car makers if it is for subarus also) apparently maf cars / ECUs have adjustable , not ''fixed'' programming .?????????? but since blocks and heads are mostly dumb, you can do the swap if you use the ORIGINAL intake manifold. this makes the ''new'' engine the same as the old engine was. so to get this engine to run in your car, swap the cam sprocket, driver side the crank sprocket, and the intake manifold. if you do this there is no way the ECU can know that there is a different block or heads. but if the car is non-maf, will the ECU be able to adjust for the different displacement? does the 00 OBS ej22 have a MAF? i'm not trying to confuse the issues with this swap, i'm just trying to learn something about ECUs and the MAF system.

plug and play auto trans for the 95 lego, all of them. 95 - 98 legacy L, brighton, LS - all ej22 cars 93 - 98 impreza all ej22 or ej18 cars - L, LX, LS, LE, L+ and 90 - 91 legacy non turbo the auto trans from an ej25 car 96 - 98 will work, BUT ONLY if you use the matching rear diff. the auto trans from a 92 - 94 lego will work, BUT ONLY if you use the matching rear diff. imprezas may be cheaper so be sure to look there. on car-part.com, you will have to search each year and model separately. this means your browser will have lots of tabs open.

but as rooster said, try the Trans-X. it is possibly a cheap solution to a potentially expensive problem. do a drain and fill, add a Qt. of trans-x on the fill, and see if that helps. if it helps, it may buy yopu time to find an affordable solution. or as in my case, (00 lego L w/ 85k miles) keep it running fine as long as i repeat the procedure once a year.

it can even happen to non-virgins who don't pay attention. either that or my virginity grew back??????????? i read about it before i actually was caught by it. i knew it was there and had never had a problem. but then one day it hit it by accident and didn't know it. my neighbor knocked on my door that evening and told me my parking lights were on. thankfully the battery was not dead yet.

i would also have the battery ans the alt tested. i do not know how a weak / bad battery or alt would cause the engine to continue running after you turn it off, but the dash lights dimming sounds electrical to me. so test the electrical stuff to rule it out. besides, battery and alt problems are much more common.

i would feel more comfortable answering this if i had the full trans ID# and car year, model, engine info. because as soon as i say yes, someone will find a situation where it is not true. yes, if the rest of the trans ID# is EXACTLY the same then a newer one will work fine in an older car. what are the ID numbers?

if you have a need or a use for it, and you have a welder, just weld the sprocket , and the pulley?, onto the crank and call it a day. it will run until the crank seal dies.

www.car-part.com find an engine from an impreza, they are / may be a little cheaper, and start over. i hate to see one die, but for $300 you can get another one.

speed sensors are cheap, check out www.car-part.com but you might want to check the screws on the back side of the speedo, instrument cluster, first. if they are loose, the speedo will not be grounded which will cause it to fail. and loose screws could cause an intermittent problem .

that question should be, when did the turbo RE-start in us cars? there were turbos in the late 80s and in the early 90s. but for the most part there were not any 95 - 04. of course , do not know anything about the WRX, and they could have had turbos every year for all i know.

tips: 1/ remove the windshield washer reservoir and the air filert box to give your self more room to work. 2/ when removing the plugs, keep the rubber washer inside the socket so when the plug is unthreaded it will slide out with the socket. 3/ when installing the plugs DO NOT keep the rubber washer in the socket, that way the socket will come out with the extension. if you leave the washer in the socket, the socket may stay on the plug. when you pull the extension out. take your time. #4 is the hardest, i do it last so i have practice before i get there. good luck.

temporary is a relative term. if you mean the duty c may still act up, yes that is possible if it is bad. but if you mean that the binding comes back as the fluid ages, probably not, if you replace it on a regular basis and keep it fresh. btw, it improved with one drain and fill, how about the other two, are you going to do those? as a matter of fact, i remember one recent thread where the clean fluid eliminated the duty c issue. the only thing i can figure is that the duty c was ''stuck'' or gummed up due to the dirty fluid. clean up the fluid and the duty c is free to operate. but i don't really know.

unless you are looking for economy, for the same work you can install an ej22 with 135 HP. on the other hand, if you have a free ej18, why not. but what are you going to gain? what ids wrong with the engine in the loyale now?

as nipper (i think it was him) described it, the light is independent of the gauge. and is triggered by a ''thermistor''? or something like that. when it is exposed to the air in the tank, instead of the fuel, the temp changes, and it triggers the light. or so i have read.

you might want to carry a an extra gallon of gas with you. my son's 95 lego had gauge issues. reading E at about 10 - 12 gallons gone, not unusual for these cars. but occasionally, the light would come on and then go off, not to come on again. he ran out of gas more than once. and then learned to fill up at 250 miles regardless of the light or gauge. FYI

well, if you unplug the crank sensor you do not get spark. if you unplug the cm sensor you do not get fuel. unplug the cam sensor, spray in some starting ether, and it should run for a few seconds.

do you have mice where you live? check the wiring, and the connectors. look for bad spots.

the crank triggers the spark, the cam triggers the fuel.