johnceggleston

then you better quit dragging that trailer around town.

one more approach, how long do you expect to be driving this car? if you are going to keep it 125k like your other one, get the subaru part. but if you are going to drive it a bit and move on, well that is a different story. the chances that the dorman part will fail in the short term are less than the chances it will fail in the long term. besides, after you have pulled the engine once, you can do it the second time in a weekend, easy. maybe ask the guy a rockauto how many of these they sell every year. or this: buy this one off of ebay, for $20, shipped. screws included. the one on my 00 legacy was metal, so this 01 forester should be as well. but you better confirm that. one of the screws look counter sunk, like the 95 setup. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-oil-separator-plate-and-screws-/231012519944?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c96b5008&vxp=mtr i did not even remove the one on my 00, since it was not leaking and it was metal. but i do not remember the screws.

i know what i would do. 1/ go to advance auto and buy the part. 2/ look at it and see if there are any glaring errors. 3/ make a decision and order the part i have confidence in form the supplier i trust. 4/ return the part to advance auto. '' i didn't need it.'' of course, it would be better to compare the dorman to an original suabru part.

thanks for the part number. i had a little trouble confirming it would fit. but it shows fitment for 06 - 11 engines. the amazon link has a zoom on it and you can read '' made in china'' on the part. so probably not made by the same company that makes the part for suabru. the screw threads and length you can get from one you remove. (see link below, but still compare to existing bolt.) the difference, the factory screws sit flush with the surface of the plastic plate, which is thicker than the metal plate, and the heads are tapered like a ''stove bolt''. the new screws are round head and i think they take an allen wrench, but i'm not sure. i must have lost one because i remember buying a hex head replacement at the hardware store. my only concerns were, does the flex plate clear the head of the bolt? it did. and is the under side of the head flat? apparently flat enough. don't over torque them. bolt info: "http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/engine/cylinder_block/illustration_4/

look in the hole for the missing o-ring.

well said. when you buy a car, or buy a repair for that matter, you are buying miles. i try and buy economical miles. buy a broken subaru, fix it , drive it for several years, sell it. my target is 5 cents per mile. but i'm happy with anything under 10 cents per mile.

this is the first i have ever heard of any one making one except suabru. given the unknown about the dorman plate, and the fact that you have to pull the engine to replace it, and the fact that the $18 difference would not put me in the poor house, and since a week is not going to make a huge difference since you have a bad trans, (right?) i would order it from subaru. but if any one said the dorman plate was fine, or if i could look at it and compare it to the ones i have already installed, i would then go that way. do you have a dorman part number? does advance or one of the other chains carry it? heck, it is probably made by the same company that makes the one for subaru. not much help, huh? don't forget the screws.

jack up a rear wheel , put your finger on the spring and turn the wheel by hand. even better if you have a mechanics stethoscope. see if you feel any thing. then do the other side to compare. rear diffs rarely fail unless they run out of fluid. of course any part can fail, but the failure rate for rear diffs is very, very, low. almost never. take notice.

the 91 does not have EGR, the 96 MAY have EGR. so if the 96 car needs to see that you will have to do a little work to make it happen.

from what i have read, the belt matches the heads. so you are running the right one.

from what little bit this poster has shared, it sounds to me like the most he is able to do is drivew his other car to a yard and pick up an engine. that means he is dependent on the shop for ALL labor. and as we all know labor is expensive.

the 98 obw has a small hose (like windshield washer hose) with a filter inline that runs to the passenger strut. it was originally run next to the large , 1 inch thik , hose that connected the IAC to the intake plastic plenum. mine had a zip tie like hloder keeping the small hose in place with the larger one. there are 2 items on the strut and there is a small hose that connects the two. check those.

you probably missed a hose, vacuum tube on the manifold somewhere. what year, model, engine, trans, miles ?

once you get over their minimum shipping amount, most online dealers charge 10% of the order amount to ship. it was surprising to me (and not surprising) to learn that the online cost plus 10% shipping equals my local dealer's wholesale price. i don't think this is an accident. rooster makes a good point, if you buy the cheapest, you get the cheapest. one nice thing about rockauto.com is you can compare prices between different brands, and if the local store part is $75, you can buy a better part online for the same or maybe less. the coupons on ''retailmenot.com'' for advance autoparts are great. and lots of them are reusable. (save 40 on 100, trt41) i just bought a denso direct fit o2 sensor for my wifes toyota and saved $40. retail = $102, with coupon, order online pick up same day in store = $62. the same part at rockauto.com was $59, plus shipping and the 3 day wait. but some parts are dealer only.

under the ''replace the engine'' option, is buy a low mileage JDM replacement engine (imported from japan). they run about $900 - $1000, maybe a little less if you pick it up. i don't usually recommend this option because there are cheaper used engines. and they require some labor to adapt them to US emissions specs, like EGR. but the 00 does not have EGR, so the labor would be limited to swapping the intake manifold and installing the engine. i believe your mechanic could get this done for $1800 - $2200, total. let's assume you spend $2500 to repair this car. how many more miles will that buy you? 15, 000 miles = a so-so investment ($0.16 per mile) 25,000 miles = a good investment. ($0.10 per mile) 50,000 miles = a GREAT investment. ($0.05 per mile) and then you could still sell it for $2000 if in good operating condition, or $500 - $800 if not running. you are buying miles. and it is almost always cheaper to repair the car you have than to start over. especially considering that you like the car you have.

ok, no local dealer. try one of these: SubaruOnlineParts.com :: Original parts for your Subaru SubaruGenuineParts.com :: Original parts for your Subaru original suabru parts at wholesale prices. these are only two, there are others. just allow enough time for delivery.

what year car are you working on? is the ej22 from a 99 legacy, or 99 impreza outback sport? either way, the 99 ej22 is a phase 2 engine and is not swappable into a 96 - 99 ej25 car.

read this good pics near the end. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/79130-how-to-seat-your-torque-converter-by-mnwolftrack/?hl=torqueconverter&do=findComment&comment=832210

regardless of what you use to ''clean'' the engine, i would not leave it in long term. put it in, drive it, change it.

this will be a first. i don't think i have ever heard of a gauge temp sensor going bad.

the 97 ej22 (96 - 98) is a single port exhaust head, the 97ej25 is a dual port exhaust head. so when you buy the engine, buy the exhaust y-pipe as well. which some times can be challenging since yards like to cut things instead of unbolting them. if you use an ej22 from 95, you do not need the y-pipe, it has dual port heads. also, you need the engine to have EGR, so double check before you buy. usually the ej22 engines in auto trans cars, 95 - 98, had EGR. the 99 ej22 IS NOT an option. it will not work. there is a way to work around the EGR issue if the engine does not have it, but you would have to buy an intake manifold w/ EGR. so better to buy the engine you need. good luck.

the last plate i bought had a ARROW embossed on it pointing to the bolt hole that required the special bolt. actually it is the same bolt with some kind of sealant or loc-tite on it. top left bolt hole. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/79784-rear-separator-plate-ej18ej22ej25/?hl=11831aa210&do=findComment&comment=664833

you probably have a butchered T-stat. when the head gaskets go bad, you can keep it from overheating by punching the guts out of the t-stat and reinstalling it. drive the car for a while, long enough to bring it to full operating temp and then look for bubbles in the over flow bottle. bubbles would be an indicator of bad head gaskets. this is just a guess. but if you install a subaru stat, these cars do not like after market stats, and find the one in the car has been altered or is missing, you will know.

yes, 95 has the plastic plate, unless it has been replaced already. the tick could just be because it has not been driven lately. (no reverse) they do that. and usually running it will clear it up. but MMO can help clear it and other grime. but i would not leave it in for 3k miles,maybe only 1k. i have heard the best way to ''clean'' an old engine is to change the oil often, 1k - 1.5k miles. if you add MMO you will put more dirt?, grime, in the oil. more frequent oil changes would be good.

PS: if you keep the TC in tight to the trans during removal you may not have to reseat it. but better safe than sorry.