johnceggleston

the wiring in the car has to match the computers in the car. since you are not changing the computers it is a non-issue. all 90 - 98 auto trans in the ej22 cars are the same model, TZ102Zxxxx. the last 4 characters of the number are all letters for the legos, like AAAA for 95 and ABAA for 96. in 96 with the ej25 cars they started the the TZ102Z2 xxx with the second 2 indicating the 4.44 ratio in the outback, GT and LSi. but all the trans 90 - 98 are the same basic trans the TZ102Zxxxx . the only difference in any of them is the final drive ratio. they are all interchangeable. they are the same trans. not until 99 did they change the trans (phase 2) when the started with the TZ1A2Zxxxx trans in the outback and GT. the lego trans was different that year as well, but i do not remember the the number off hand. i'd have to look it up to be sure, but i bet it also is a TZ1A2Zxxxx. swap it.

check here for the ratio in the 90 lego. Final Drive Ratio 90 - 94 i'm pretty sure it is a 4.11 ratio. the 95 lego auto trans has a 4.11 ratio. the obd is a non issue. the wiring, brain and electrical components did not change until 99/00. so it will fit plug and play. if you read up on the end wrench articles you will see that they did tweak the auto trans a bit in the early years, but not so it will not run. the bottom line is, if the plug on the trans is the same it will fit, plug and play.

that's way better than ''just like it used to''.

see if you can get the shop to agree to no charge if the problem is not fixed. call the shop your self and act as her dad looking for re-assurance. the worst case here is that they ''fix'' it for $600 but it is not fixed. and then they want more. just try to get them to commit, ''if this does not fix it , no charge''. once you pay it is too late unless they are an above average shop. god luck to you both.

i found this to be a little tricky. so i used two 6'' x 6'' blocks stacked on top of each other and lowered the car down on them. as weight was put on the rotor, the bolt holes lined up. i found the blocks more stable and less likely to damage the rotor. but it worked great.

suggestions: usmb members close by, a good pair of eyes may help a lot. parts yards close by, if the parts you MIGHT need are all easily available there is less need to carry parts up there. put in the fuse and see if that helps. if yes, then removing the drive shaft will ''fix'' it. if no, then either swap the rear diff, or remove the rear axles and drive shaft as mentioned. but chances are good all the parts you need are already up there, in one yard or another. www.car-part.com

there is a work around if you don';t want to do the drill and tap. Using a NON-EGR engine in Subaru with EGR

rear diffs are often blamed for torque bond by rookies. but it is hard to argue with metal parts in the rear diff fluid. if that is true. install the fuse.

this is EXACTLY what will cause this issue in a standard 90 - 99 ej22 or ej25 car. or more correctly, the large hose that connects the IAC on the intake to the underside of the air plenum. big hole. the pcv also ties in to this hose. what intake plenum are you using? either plug it (?????) or connect it (best).

iirc, the wire to the cig lighter has ''something'' in line that is covered in heat shrink tubing. since this seems to be fairly common, i might use a smaller fuse and / or air pump or both. but that does not help you replace it. i did the same thing on my 97 GT and i have just been living without it. cigarettes are bad for me any way.

i am not the most experienced so i do not know everything . but, i have NEVER seen a subaru T-stat go bad. i have heard of them being replaced as a preventative, and i have heard of them being replaced for overheating, and i have heard of issues related to after market replacements, but usually in a situation like yours, the t-stat is blamed for a problem caused by something else. it gets replaced with an after market item and still the problem. a subaru unit is installed, and still the problem. i hope the subaru t-stat fixes it. be sure to add the ''coolant conditioner''. $2.50 from subaru. this is very important. i would add 2 bottles.

make sure the hose going into the over flow bottle is not pressed against the bottom of the bottle. in other words, pull the hose up, out, of the bottle about 1/2 inch. see if that makes a difference. other things that will cause your problem have been mentioned. but maybe a bad cap could hold pressure in one direction but not in another. or possibly a low pressure leak somewhere that seals at high pressure. this sound really lame, but who knows?

good deal.

there is, should be, a fuse for thew FWD. it is located in the fuse box under the hood in the corner closest to the transmission. it should be marked FWD. (the H6 VDC does not have one. not sure about the llbean.) have her try that, ANY fuse will do. there should be a spare in the fuse box. the inside of the lid has the labels. try it. if that fixes it, i would try new fluid. how old is the fluid in the trans? how many miles on the trans? if these numbers are the same it is time for new fluid.

good job. keep at it.

would you hear a click, if the inhibit safety switch was bad?? i didn't think ANY electricity would flow. but my electrical know how pretty much stops at the light switch when i enter a room.

i have never had the FWD light on when the duty c was bad. whenever the duty c has been bad, i have not had a FWD light. but i have not explored all possibilities so who knows?

first, check the battery connections. make sure they are clean and tight. if that does not fix it, it is probably the solenoid contacts in the starter. the parts are pretty cheap and it isn't hard to do after you remove the starter. another solution would / might be to add a relay to the circuit. this fixe3d my 97 outback. and is easier to do. do a search here for ''starterrelayfix'' or ''starterfix'' and read the older stuff first. or ''starter contact* replac* solenoid''. a more expensive fix would be to replace the starter. but i think i have heard of those not always fixing it. if i were you and i could not do the repair myself, i would buy a used starter, and replace the solenoid contacts. then i would have a shop install it for you.

yes, valve damage. but nothing else unless it threw a rod or dropped a valve. so the good news is you can get back on the road with a valve job or replacement heads. often only one side is bent. plus, unless you go turbo, there isn't a lot to squeeze out of these engines. or at least not enough to make it worth the money. but that is just my opinion. good luck and welcome .

as mentioned, if the FWD light comes on then the duty c is working. but if the duty c is working and you still have the flashing AT Temp light, and a code 79, then there is conflicting info. the AT Temp light indicates an electrical fault in the trans the last time you drove it. the code indicates it is the duty c. so does the binding. change the fluid and see, it can't hurt. there have been case where the TCU was bad and causing the binding.

it could be the cooler lines. i don't see them in the pic but that is a pretty good possibility. new washers MAY correct it. but to be honest, if that is the worst leak on your car you are doing great. and i probably would not mess with it until it starts to leave a stain on the drive way / pavement. but that's just me.

please define ''about 18% out''. when you checked the timing it was off? how many degrees off was the cam sprocket? 10, 20 30 or more? only one side off? or both sides? if the timing was off enough, you may have bent valves. this would make it run like crap. a compression test would tell you how bad it is. but first things first, get the timing right is it is not.

i don't know much about EGR, but i would think it needs more flow than the valve cover breathers offer. if the dealer is still unsure, buy it cheap and fix it for your own use or profit. good luck.

lets get some things straight: the car is 99 GT ?? factory engine was an ej25 phase 1 engine. (this is true for a 99 GT.) (actually it is a hybrid, phase 2 block, phase 1 heads, intake, ECU.) so the engine swapped in is most likely an ej22 phase 2....... with out EGR, ?? apparently so to make it right you need an ej22 intake manifold with EGR, usually from an auto trans car. and a link to the EGR ''work around'' thread. my guess is that this will fix it right up. or most of it anyway.

absolutely. plug and play, just like legos.