johnceggleston

depending on the year (WHAT YEAR IS IT?) there is a known problem where the latch fails to operate due to rust?. try pushing the latch lever handle (the part your fingers pull on) try pushing it the other direction and then unlocking the door with the electric locks or the key. then squeeze and pull to open as usual. EDIT: 99 is one of thos years , i think.

the fuse will disable the ABS system, but it will not cure any clanking or scraping. you need to find the cause of the noise.

my 00 lego L ej25 with a good service history spun a rod bearing at 85k for no reason what so ever. turned out to be #4 rod bearing.

i think 30 minutes will do it, but why not leave it off over night to be sure. but what is the code? you probably left something unplugged. the code might tell you what. when it comes back have it read at the parts store.

FYI - from http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106 Causes A P0106 could be caused by: Bad MAP sensor Water/dirt intrusion affecting MAP sensor connector Intermittent open in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor Intermittent short in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor Ground problem due to corrosion causing intermittent signal problem A break in the flexible air intake duct between the MAF and the intake manifold Bad PCM (do not assume the PCM is bad until you've exhausted all other possibilities) Possible Solutions Using a scan tool, watch the MAP sensor value with the key on, engine off. Compare the BARO reading with the MAP reading. They should be roughly equal. The voltage for the MAP sensor should read approx. 4.5 volts. Now start the engine and look for a significant drop in the MAP sensor voltage indicating the MAP sensor is working. If the MAP reading doesn't change perform the following: With the Key on, engine off, disconnect the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor. Using a vacuum pump, pull 20 in. of vacuum on the MAP sensor. Does the voltage drop? It should. If it doesn't inspect the MAP sensor vacuum port and vacuum hose to manifold for a restriction of some kind. Repair or replace as necessary. If there are no restrictions, and the value doesn't change with vacuum, then perform the following: with the Key on and engine off and the MAP sensor unplugged, check for 5 Volts at the reference wire to the MAP sensor connector with a Digital Voltmeter. If there is none, check for reference voltage at the PCM connector. If the reference voltage is present at the PCM connector but not the MAP connector, check for open or short in the reference wire between MAP and PCM and retest. If reference voltage is present, then check for existing ground at the MAP sensor connector. If it isn't present then repair open/short in the ground circuit. If ground is present, then replace MAP sensor. Other MAP sensor trouble codes include P0105, P0107, P0108 and P0109. Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106 Copyright © OBD-Codes.com

i read a post about one guy who put a battery operated household carbon monoxide detector inside a plastic bag and used a rubber band to attach it to the top of the rad where the cap fits. sure enough it ''smelled'' the exhaust. as often as you have been adding coolant, perhaps the concentration is not high enough to show positive in the test.? just a thought.

correct, 60k for your timing belt interval. BUT, you need to ask yourself, have the idlers ever been replaced? it is rare for a timing belt failure to be caused by a belt ''busting''. usually it is caused by an idler bearing failure. and this may or may not cause a belt to shred and bust.

so the spec on the car now ? 97obw chassis 95 ej22 engine with an auto trans? if yes? it could be the input seal in the trans, as mentioned. or it could be the trans fluid cooler lines that go to the radiator. you need to crawl under and see where it is coming from.

there is a very good chance of this.

that is a pretty good idea, but the usual head gasket leak in the 00 - 04 engines is external. so if the test is positive you have learned you have an internal leak. but if the test is negative, you have not ruled out an external leak.

the swap you describe does not require an intake swap. so pull the one and swap in the other. no worries. however, if your car has an auto transmission, it is WAY easier to remove the flex plate bolts if the intake manifold has been removed. so i pull the intake, remove the flex plate bolts, reposition the intake with several bolts to hold it, and then lift the engine. the install is the reverse, set the engine, remove the intake, install the flex plate bolts, install the intake manifold. aside from the wire connectors going to the intak manifold harness, there are 2 coolant lines under the throttle body that need to be disconnected. these hoses are 20+ years old so be gentle. or replace them. good luck.

did you add the subaru coolant conditioner when the head gaskets were done? this is required. i have been driving subarus since 1994 and on this forum since 05, and i have NEVER heard of a bad temp gauge single wire sensor. the other sensor, ECTS, can go bad and cause issues, but those are usuallt ''starting'' issues, not overheating issues. it is a cooling system or head gasket (hopefully not) issue, not the gauge.

the ej22 has plenty of power, on 24.3 inch tires. installing 27 inch tires = an 11% reduction in power. installing a 96 ej25 in your 90 lego would give you a power increase of 22%. for a net gain of 11% over a stock 90 ej22 legacy with stock tires. it would be WAY easier to buy a 96 - 99 outback (2200$) and install 27inch tires. you would get the same power increase for a lot less work. or put smaller tires on your 90.

as nipper has said repeatedly , ''any aluminum head can blow a head gasket''. and it does happen in the H6. a quick search on subaruoutback.org will confirm this. the bubbles in the over flow makes it sound like an internal leak, like the 96 - 99 ej25. but it also acts like a low coolant problem. so maybe it is an external leak and over heats once it loses enough coolant. either way, driving with a non-pressurize system, lose cap, should reduce the problem. (unless it burps out so much coolant that it will not circulate.) for an external leak, less pressure means less force pushing coolant out thru the leak. for an internal leak, less pressure MAY allow exhaust gases to escape, reducing the loss of coolant. crawl under the car and look for wet, oily stains where the heads meet the block. my guess is you will find one side very oily and/ or wet. also if you drive with the cap loose, you can stop every hour or (30 - 45 minutes) and add coolant to the system, or water, before it overheats. this is not ideal. but unless you plan on paying a shop to make repairs, 750 miles from home, it may get you home.

i always advise ''do not replace'', since rookies always assume an oil leak on the rear of the block is the rear main. and on subarus that is usually not the case. but in this case it looks like it needs to go. follow GDs advice above ad you should be good. not an impossible job, just not required very often.

95 - 99 will work. 97 - 99 are going to be better, there were a few improvements. but if the oil stains are just on the floor, a 95? or 96 cargo area carpet will roll out cover everything up. or a plastic cargo liner / tray, 95 - 99. both of the ones with ''legacy'' or ''outback?'' printed on them will work.

not 100%, but i'm pretty sure. i have never tried to buy one. of course i have always thought they could sell an exhaust assembly saying it did not include the cats, but make a mistake. but i think they gt in pretty big trouble if they get caught. but it could be like the federal law and handicapped ramps. law says you have to have them, but there is no federal ''police'' force to enforce the law. some one else has to complain. and even then they have to get a federal somebody to listen and issue a ''something official''. usually a law suit is easier to start. call a yard tomorrow and ask.

rumor has it 371 is a new record as of 7/13/13.

they are hard to find because the salvage yards cannot sell them, but i would locate and install used subaru cats from some one parting out a car. this will be a good first step toward fixing your car.

how old are the replacement cats on the car? aftermarket cats do not last long. i have heard that a straight pipe / no cats will not throw a code if you use the spacer on the rear o2 sensor. but i don't know for sure. but since the cats are not working correctly now, and since you have to do something, pull the cats and ream them out as mentioned. leave the spacer in. and see what you get. you may have to install a ''subaru'' front o2 sensor. this fixes a lot of p0420 codes. if the front sensor was not replaced when the cats were, or if it it is not a high quality subaru item, it could be the cause of the code.

as you probably know, but may not, these are symptoms of dehydration, severe dehydration. the next step is heat stroke. driving in extreme heat, or working or walking or playing or sailing or ......., with a good stiff breeze (5 -10 mph) to evaporate your sweat, will hide / cloud the fact that you are sweating your butt off. it will not take long to dehydrate if you do not plan ahead or re-hydrate.

the AC does in fact put a load on the engine. it is a very noticeable load in certain situations. like driving up hill towards home in my 97GT w/ ej22 swap. of course some of that may be that the car does not down shift soon enough. in city driving i suspect you will see a good bit of difference in MPG. on the hiway i doubt you will notice much difference. rumor has it that the decreased aerodynamics of the open windows equals the fuel saved by the AC off. but i don't know. mythbusters did this, google them/ that.

cool it off, fill it up, and drive it with the cap loose. it can't hurt. apparently it is going to over heat even if you don't. so far i have not heard any one try this on an H6. it works for the H4 96 - 99 ej25 until the leak gets really bad. it SHOULD let the exhaust gas escape. that is if there is an internal head gasket leak. if the system has enough coolant, it should circulate. if it circulates it will cool. but once the level drops below the level of the top hose, will it circulate? if the cap is loose, and there is no HG leak, how much coolant will you lose? enough to stop the coolant from circulating?

so it runs fine when cold, at first start, but misses when it warms up. how about the temp sensor? runs fine in open loop, but misses in closed loop. how about the o2 sensor?

i would assume that the gas gauge reads the resistance of the sending units, and that the units are wired in series. so if one reads full and the other reads half, the gauge would show 3/4. just a guess, but it makes sense. if only one sending unit is worn, what would happen if you left the driver side unit ''pegged'' in the full position? would it run out of fuel at 3/4 tank? or maybe ''peg'' it at 1/h, or just above where it stops ''sending''. that way it would never read full or empty but be accurate in the middle. but my guess is that both units are worn and both have a dead or weak spots.