johnceggleston

almost missed this part. check the camber. i stupidly took my 97GT to merchants tire for an alignment after i swapped in obw struts. they did it and 8 months later my tires were wearing on the inside. (drove fine.) so i go back and do it again. and again 9 months later. finally i watch the process. it turns out the alignment computer keeps telling the technician that there is NO camber adjustment without after market parts. so i have paid them to align my car WRONG 3 times. and my tires are wearing out. i did get my money back. check the camber.

check the visible threads on one of your other cars. this should give you an idea of what you are looking for on each side. i would un-thread, lengthen, the short side, counting the turns, until you get close to your other car. (remember the axle seal ring deal?) then go back and screw on, shorten, the other tie rod the same number of turns. this should put you back to your same alignment but with the threads about the same on both side of the rack. now you have room to make your adjustment. re-centering the steering wheel is easier than the u-joint. but you do not want to run out of clock spring before you run of of steering rack.

as mentioned, it is not a straight , easy swap. you could end up with a CEL that you can not correct which would prohibit the car from passing inspection in some places. i would look for a good engine from your gen, 96 - 98/9. but if the 3rd gen engine is cheap / free, i would use the block and bolt on your heads, intake, and cam / crank sprockets.

plus, it is pretty easy to do unless you have an H6. a few bolts, 6?, on each side and 2 gaskets, tube seals.

actually the 99 ej25 obw dohc engine is in fact a phase 2 block with the phase 1 DOHC heads. it is a hybrid engine from the factory. so the 99 ej25 obw block will in fact bolt to the 99L auto trasn. and it will bolt to the 99 ej22 phase 2 heads. that is a very unusual swap and i do not know the details on how to. but if you were dedicated, you could do it. but it would be much simpler to find a 99 - 00 ej22 engine to swap in. but it is only a 2 year engine. or to find a 00 - 02 ej25 engine to swap in, you would need the exhaust y-pipe from your 99 obw. or a third and probably cheaper option would be to find an 00 - 02 ej25 engine with rod knock, not uncommon. use the good heads off of that 'rod knock' block and bolt them on your 99 ej25 short block. then use the y-pipe from the 99 obw, and the intake from your 99 L and install that in your 99 L. i little complicated, but doable.

removing the gas tank is a real pain. i hope that is not necessary, ever. but you do not have to remove it to get to the sending units. there are 2 access panels under the carpet in the cargo area / trunk just behind the rear seat back. remove a bunch of small bolts and expose the top of the tank, fuel lines and wiring connectors. open the tank and remove the fuel pump / sending unit assembly. good luck.

info below is from Engine Diagnosis 101 not all of that link is noise related, but still a pretty good link.

JULY 13, 2013 FYI: from subaruoutback.org http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/61-general-discussions/76265-chicagoland-guinness-world-records-subaru-parade.html#post780633

kudos to jimmy for searching first. welcome !! and happy motoring!

this may not help with increasing pressure, but it could if supply were a problem. use an ej25 oil pan. they hold a bit more oil and bolt right on. the dip stick is the same , just fill to the full line. there will be more oil in the pan, all below the full line. just a thought.

there are 2 on AWD cars. only one on FWD cars. does it move at all when you turn on the car? has the gauge ever worked while you have owned it? how long have you had the car? you might try a bottle of ''techron'' fuel system cleaner. it brought the fuel gauge back to life in my 95 lego after sitting for a year+. you can get it at most auto parts stores. one bottle in a tank of gas, improved it, got it to move. a second bottle and tank of gas got it to work mostly well. these gauges tend to read lower / emptier than actual amount left when they get old. at least the 95 - 99 cars do. i'm not sure about the 90 - 94 cars. you can get it at most auto parts stores.

check the ground wires on the intake manifold and / or on the body near the hood hinges. loose ground wires can cause weird things.

subaru started obd2 in 85, but that has nothing to do with it. when they change the pin out on the ECU , regardless of the reason, they also change the wire harness to match. the 95 pinout is different than the 96. 96 = 97 97 id different than 98. and 98 MIGHT be the same as 99. but if you have a bad harness or connector you need to stick with your year. any idea how big, long the harness is? where does it start and finish. not many people harvest the wiring harness. too much work, not much demand. i assume you have unplugged and re-connected, wiggled, cleaned, pushed, pulled and tapped on the connector in question? i bumped something when i was replacing an axle on my 00 lego. turns out it was a ground wire i failed to tighten the year before when i did the head gaskets. the car ran fine until i bumped.

maybe the 99 obw. / GT. / L certainly the 98 GT and lego L but absolutely not the 95 - 97 anything. what is wrong with your car? what are you trying to do ?

i replaced the clock spring in my 97 GT legacy with one from a 96 legacy L. it was pretty easy to do. one connector is a little challenging but if you take your time you can get it. the steering wheel puller is nice but i did not need it. loosen the nut that holds it on, but do not remove it. then you bang up on it with both hands from the under side until it pops loose. then remove the nut and the steering wheel. one thing to note when reinstalling: if you do not ''lock'' the ABS connector it will throw a code. plug it in untill it clicks, and then snap the lock.

good info above. what is wrong with your trans?

what is the leak sound? pop pop pop or a hiss? i swapped an ej22 into a 98 obw and had an exhaust leak. (it was my second swap.) i finally learned it was the EGR pipe, i didn't have one. i had bought the engine and done a reseal and timing belt, but never noticed it was missing the EGR pipe. and although it ran, pop pop pop, it never threw a code. on my next swap. one of my exhaust manifold studs / nuts did not tighten up. the nut and stud came out of the block together and i re-used it. i think the stud must have bottomed out before the nut tightened on the flange. both of these are / were due to inexperience. part of the learning process.

buy a can of starting fluid and try that before you replace the fuel pum. if it starts then you have a fuel issue. if it does not start you probably have no spark. but i think a fuel issue would cause a misfire on all 4, maybe. or no pattern at all. the firing order is 1-3-2-4, so 3&4 are not even next to each other. the igniter can cause a 3-4 misfire. it feeds the coil in a front (1-2) vs. rear (3-4) manner. the coil feeds the plugs the same way, but coils don't fail very often. a jumped timing belt is more common but not likely with the 3-4 misfire. 3 - 4 are not on the same head. but try the starting fluid first.

p0400 = EGR flow malfunction i think i got that when i put a 97obw ECU into a 98obw. it was a phantom code. the right ECU eliminated it. try the other ECU before you spend a lot of time trying to track it down.

depending on price, use subaru wires. they run about $40. not sure about NGK. ditto the above on ''the import experts'', they will sell you a kit w/ belt, all idlers and water pump for about $135 shipped. i agree the seals should be fr4om subaru. and the oil pump and cam cap o-rings. . but i might buy decent quality o-rings for the dip stick locally. no mention of intake gasket. i use good quality intake / exhaust gaskets from rock auto. no need for subaru, but avoid el cheapo. same with ''gasket kits'' from ebay. the last one i bought , $35, did not last long. i don't recommend them. no mention of coolant cross over pipe o-rings, 2 each. i have never replaced the oil pick up o-ring. or pulled an oil pan just to reseal it. the oil pan seal usually lasts the life of the car. but no biggie either way.

stop the presses. the 99 forester had a ej25, 2.5L engine, not a ej22 engine. so i'm going to assume you were mistaken on that detail. that engine will swap in to the 00 - 02 cars, legagy, outback, forester and impreza. it will swap into the 03 - 04 cars. however, you may need to do one or all of the following to get it to run 1/ use the new car intake manifold on the ''donor'' engine 2/ use the new car cam sprockets on the ''donor'' engine 3/ use the new car crank sprockets on the ''donor'' engine the 03 - 04 cars have EGR, i do not know if the 99 does or not. the 00 - 02 cars do not have EGR. the computer DOES NOT need to be swapped. don't do it. if going into a 99 - 00 legacy or impreza, you will need the exhaust manifold y-pipe from the 99 forester. basically you are looking for a 00 - 04 car with a 4 cylinder engine to implant your engine.

i'll give you a free bere if the ECU is not a 96. that was the year they trouble with the ''monitors not ready''. but that does not fit with the info above that the car did not used to have this problem.

how old are the sensors? catalyst not ready means a sensor is measuring the cat performance. if that is done by an an old and worn o2 senor that may be your answer. if that sensor is also one that is not ''ready at start up, well ....... o2 sensors fail to work properly long before they throw a code. just a thought.

98 OBW auto trans = phase1 98 GT auto trans = phase1 99 forester auto trans = phase1 ___________________________ 99 OBW auto trans = phase2 99 GT auto trans = phase2 00 forester auto trans = phase2 you can not cross that line.

check the fuses under the hood in the fuse box near the battery. check the fusible links in the same fuse box.