johnceggleston

find a nice safe piece of wet grass, shift into 1 and punch it. maybe an up hill piece of wet grass. or time to open it up.

my first guess would be the coolant temp sensor, the 2 wire unit. it tells the computer the engine temp. if the computer thinks the engine is cold when it is warm / hot, you will get the wrong fuel air mix . my second guess would be a leaking injector flooding a cylinder or 2 after you turn the engine off. have you tried pushing the gas pedal to the floor and holding it there when it is hard to start? that is how you start a ''flooded'' engine. once you get it started, how does it run? smooth, rough, surging??

try a couple of washers maybe. buy a tap & dye and cut more threads. how much too long is it? remember, the it is not just the pinch that holds the ball joint in. the bolt shaft is exposed inside the ball joint housing and the bolt rides in a groove on the side of the BJ base.

i can't believe no one has said, STOP, WAIT, it's not the cat converter. replace the front o2 sensor with a subaru unit or a VERY VERY HIGH quality alternative. this will likely cure the p0420. you may also need to replace the rear sensor, but it can be a generic item. subaru cats are very high quality and rarely fail. they often last the life of the car. o2 sensors get old and don't work as well as they should before they actually fail. besides, are you going to put a 10? yr old o2 sensor back in a new cat?? try the o2 sensor first. DO NOT replace the cats. if you do you will just be doing it again in a few years. another that might help is to run some seafoam through the intake manifold. the p0420 is the easy one, concentrate on the others. good luck.

only when the test connectors under the dash are connected. green i think.

what he said . or do you have a CEL on the dash? does your speedo work? if your front speed sensor fails, you will not have power to the rear. or if you have a busted rear axle, very very rare, you will have no power to the rear wheels.

i have a much smaller inverter i keep in the car which fits in a cup holder. it makes enough power to recharge a cell phone or ipod or the like. i have only used it when the car is running and something else was plugged into the ''power outlet''. i knew it used 12v, duh, but i always associated it with the alternator, not the battery. so when i saw this , not TOO expensive, inverter i started wondering ..... we lose power fairly often. 2 - 3 times a year. usually for only a day or two, but recently for a longer period every year. on the up side, this forces us to clean out our freezer and refrigerator fairly often. but the obvious down side, it is an expensive forced cleaning. using the new ''twisty'' light bulbs dramatically reduces the need for electricity for lighting, so almost any inverter will light a room. but being able to run the freezer for a couple, several, hours a day would be great. and then unplug that and plug in a coffee pot for 15 minutes. but in my situation, i would be limited to the battery and alternator in my 97GT with the engine running as a 12v power supply. and idling a car is not a very efficient way to generate electricity, but it does work. any electronic use would have to be in the form of games, recordings, or other self contained stuff since we lose cable / internet / phone when we lose power. but given the risk involved using an inverter for this is a little scary. so i don't really have a specific need, i was just exploring the possibility and wanted to learn something about inverters. thanks for all the info and the links. i have learned a lot.

no, those engines are not a direct swap, either way. but as mentioned you can use the short block of the ej25D and the heads & intake of the ej251 and make a good engine. assuming the heads are good.

probably, but i would try the pan off of an ej25D. if the ej22e will fit then so will the ej25d. of course it will cost you more in oil over the years since it will take a little more oil to fill the pan to the full line. more oil couldn't hurt.

first things first, change the trans fluid. do a drain and fill 3 times with driving in between. it only cost about $15 par gal for the AFT and it cannot hurt. it might help. but binding when going straight SHOULD not happen unless you have an odd tire. the clunking does sound like something is hanging up.

what is the ''dink'' the cylinder wall, at the bottom, near the date in the passenger side pic? is that from the factory? is that a concern?

this harbor freight power inverter is good for 2000 watts. (discount coupon = 20% off.) we lost power again this week., only one day this time. since i don't know much about electricity, what kind of alternator would i need to supply it with enough 12v amps? to actually get 2000 watts = 120v x 16amps ? i am assuming that it is not a magic machine that can make power out of nothing. http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-Watt-Continuous4000-Watt-Peak-Power-Inverter-69662.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODU0OTMxMzQiLCJza3UiOiI2OTY2MiIsImlzIjoiMTI5Ljk5IiwicHJvZHVjdF9p%0D%0AZCI6Ijg5MzAifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A from reading the reviews, it seems needs to be connected to multiple batteries with #2awg cables. then an alternator or generator, or solar panel would recharge the batteries. i guess how long it last is dependent on how many, how big the batteries are. thoughts? thanks.

there are in fact two different torque specs. pay attention.

unless the crank broke off a piece 2 inches long, you can repair this and drive again. the key is intended to align the crank sprocket in the proper position until you bolt it down. it is not intended to hold the sprocket in the proper position when the bolt loosen. the wear is due to the crank bolt not being tight enough. ALL OF THE WEAR is in the ''unbolt'', counter clockwise direction. this means if you put it back together, line it up correctly, when you torque the crank bolt the parts will hold in the correct position. you will need a new/ used crank sprocket, pulley, key, and bolt. you may have to clean up the crank a bit to get the old off and the new on. line it up and bolt it down. there are other ways to make the repairs, better, more expensive, more permanent ways. but plenty of engine have been fixed just as i have described.

regarding door glass removal, does the glass have to be up or down to remove? i need to do it on my 98 obw. a plastic piece is missing / busted of the rear most roller in the horizontal track and the window gets cocked when going up. i have a parts car, but i have never removed the glass or the hardware / regulator. thanks.

probably not, but the only way to find out is to go and try. if it is flagged you are in trouble. (sell it in a no inspection state.) if it isn;t flagged, you pass. happy motoring. let us know what happens.

if you are really worried, back it off and see if it is just as hard to tighten this time. having the retaining ring off and working with thte seal, and what all may have shifted things slightly so re-tightening was difficult. but removing and reinstalling with no other changes or movement may prove to be easier, or just as hard. just a thought.

on my first trip to the rockauto site i picked a european part only to learn that the shipping was WAY high. since then i click the icon at the top that removes the european parts from the results. i have not had any trouble with rockauto. but i have only used them a couple of times. as with most online purchases, the shipping can get you. so as i add parts to the order i watch to see if the shipping costs jumps. it is weird how 3 parts from the same place only cost 6$ but add one item and the shipping goes from 6$ to 11$. or 2 parts from different places will cost $11 but 3 from one place cost only $6. keep an eye on the shipping costs. some parts are really cheap, and some are about the same as the local parts store after you add the shipping. i try to buy a ''better'' part for the same price as local. buying the cheapest parts will sometimes bite you in the rump roast.

i'm pretty sure gloyale is right. but to be sure, check legacy central. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32148 what ratio do you need??? 95 - 99 will bolt right in and both 3.9 and 4.11 were used then too.

until you get a key fob, you can put it in ''valet'' mode, which is basically alarm off. if you can not get it into valet mode, turning the key on / off 3 times quickly with out starting will shut down the ''alarm''. check the link: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html there is no ''push button on the 00 - 04 cars. it is all controlled by the ignition key ''on - off'' routine. when trying to program the system, if you mess it up, you have to WAIT to try again. it took me a couple of days to get the ''routine'' correct. i tried it once every time i got in the car. good luck.

if you don't have a CEL, i would go to a different shop, and not mention the engine swap. i have never heard of a swapped ej22 failing an emissions test for any reason other than a CEL. the ej22 will run within emissions standards on the ej25 computer. even if or especially if they put a ''sniffer'' in the tail pipe. swapping computers is going to be tricky. the computer MUST match the wiring in the car, (not the engine) or you will get codes for stuff that does not exist. and i know there were some changes in 98, not sure if there were other changes in 99 outbacks. so if you HAVE to swap the computer, i would look for a 98 ej22 car. but if you have a CEL for EGR, the computer swap is not going to fix it. there is a fix, work around, but if the inspector identified the engine swap on his own, he will likely see the workaround as well.

there are several possible causes of the overheating. 1/ bad t-stat 2/ air trapped in the cooling system 3/ a coolant leak or leaking rad cap 4/ bad head gaskets. given the time frame of the repeat over heat, i suspect 3, or 4. hopefully not 4. probably not 2, if it were air trapped in the system i think it would have shown up sooner than a couple of months. before i bought any more parts, i would fill and burp the system so you know it is ok. then i would drive it until it over heats, IF it over heats. (if it does not overheat, you are done.) if it does overheat, look for bubbles in the over flow reservoir, this is a head gasket indicator. if there are no bubbles, i would replace the cap, refill the system and look for a leak. (my 97 outback leaked at a lower hose clamp, but only after the system reached full temp. not when cold or first started. i found it by letting it sit idling in my drive way after coming home after work. i saw the drip on the concrete.) info and a 'how to' below i posted on another forum. good luck.

is there a flashing AT TEMP light on the dash.?? i had both symptoms and it was a loose ground wire on the engine. simple fix, but very hard to identifdy. check for loose wires bolted to the engine, mine was near the coil, passenger side.

http://www.cars101.com

1> 99 was an anniversary year, there were very few plain ''L'' cars made and sold. most were special for the 30th year celebration and had sun roof, power antenna and other upgrades for free? although with a 10/98 build date, this may have the options without the anniversary badge. from cars101.com: 2> the 99 is a phase 2 engine, so swap in either a sohc ej25, or use an ej22 block from 90 - 98 and your current heads. 3> a 99 with 135k miles is still low in my opinion. but since the engine is bad, you can install any low mileage engine you want.