johnceggleston

where is the battery? and is it a 5 speed? if yes, you can use any ej22 long block to swap in (90 - 98) and your intake manifold. toss all the turbo stuff, (or sell it, someone will want it) and drive on. what is he asking for the car? how many miles?

this means that the caliper does not ''back off'' when you take your foot off of the brake. and so the pad drags on the rotor. re-greasing the slide pin is the solution. but in my experience, you also have to CLEAN the inside of the caliper slide pin hole or the problem will re-occur in the near future. my 97 obw did this. i re-did the pads twice before i figured it out. i'm not sure i re-greased the first time. apparently i have a fairly slow learning curve.

yes, any parts that fit the GT (or the outback) will fit the legacy of the same year, 95 - 09.

sounds like a wiring short worn insulation, bare copper wire exposed on 2 wires maybe. probably where the wires go from the chassis, a-pillar, to the door it self. the reason it does not do it when the car is off is because the windows have no power when the car is off.

inspect the brake pads. i think you will find that one side has brake pads that are not worn evenly. that side brake caliper has / needs the slide pins cleaned and re-greased. the caliper is hanging up on the slide pins. i have re-greased slide pins without cleaning them or the inside of the caliper slides and it just happens again. clean and then grease the slide pins.

the stock tire size for that year and those struts is 205/70/15. can you go larger? yes, of course. but i do not know how much larger with out rubbing. but FYI: your speedo will not read correctly. you will be driving faster than your speedo indicates.

my 00 lego w/ 85k miles spun a rod bearing. i didn't really hear it since my wife was driving it. she did report that it was knocking and i did give it a short test drive with no knocking. the next day it completely failed on the hiway. my only guess is that the bearing was worn and started knocking. it then rotated a little and found a place to rest where it did not knock. then 150 miles later it spun and died on my wife 2.5 hours from home. crap. just a guess. but gary is right , it does not sound like rod knock. read through the link and see if you can narrow it down. do the test they recommend with the plug wires. (i have been recommending this link since i found it in 05, soon after i boubht a 97obw with a bad ''wrist pin''. it turned out to be piston slap. i drove it for 45k miles and sold it for more than i paid.) http://remanufactured.com/Engine_Diagnosis_101.htm good luck.

yes, the same complications as the 99 forester regarding engine swap. your 97 ej22, 2.2L engine is a perfect fit for 95 - 98 ej22s, or 96 - 98 ej25 (plus the 99 outback). it is not a swap candidate for 00 plus cars, (or 99 forester.)

on the 98 plus cars it could be t-belt tensioner noise. how many miles? how long since the timing belt was done? but if the people telling you this are competent, then it probably is. but i would get a second opinion from a subaru guy before i spent a lot of money on a replacement engine.

i would agree that a sleeve is the way to go. but i have not been able to locate the part number for a subaru rear crank sleeve. and it isn't easy finding a supplier that even list ''skf speedi sleeves'' as part of their inventory.

i suggest a used subaru starter and replacement contacts in the solenoid prior to install. starters are not as bad as alts, but some reman replacements are crap. these guys will send you replacement contacts and plunger for the soleniod for about $15. used starters are ??$50??. still cheaper than a reman. used parts, www.car-part.com Metro Heavy-Duty Distributors, Inc 1540 Plantation Road Roanoke, VA 24012 1 (800) 296-8995 http://www.metroheavyduty.com/index.html

i think i'll call them, maybe i'm getting screwed.

if he added a turbo, either the whole engine turbo combination or just the turbo on to the 95 engine he would have to do a bunch of other work, like exhaust, up pipe and computer to control it and wiring. i don't doubt that he did all of this, but unless he used a stand alone turbo control system, undoing this may be a JOB. the 90 - 94 ej22 engines that got turbos actually had a different engine block than the rest of the ej22s 90 - 98. the turbo block had a closed deck, all the other years have an open deck. these block are very valuable to some folks. get the owners name and number and talk to them directly. take grandma out of the loop. ask for pics. there is a chance it is a 94, not a 95. but i doubt it makes much difference. i would not expect this to be an easy fix. and unless it is a really really cheap it may be better to find another car that needs little or no work. you can buy good working 95 legos for $1500, and ones that need work for $500.

are you sure it is a rod bearing?

FYI: i just got my renewal notice, AAA plus (100 mile towing) = $114 for my wife, and $70 to add me, per year.

i bought it for my wife so she would drive one of my ''rescue'' subarus. and so she would call me and say ''please come get me''. now when she calls i say , call AAA. i bought the plus coverage for 100 mile towing. i used it to tow / carry a just purchased H6 with a bad trans home. the first time she needed it she broke down 3 hours from home in the very first road trip in recently purchased 00 lego wagon with 85k miles. but she was not able to use it due to her spilling coffee on BOTH of her cell phones. the up side, she could not call and complain to me either. she was one HOT mama, walking down the interstate, late for her out of town meeting, in shoes that were not designed for walking, turning down rides from scuzzy looking guys, probably in subarus.

ditto !! it must need to be adjusted when the trans is first built. why else would they even put it there? kind of like the ''idle set screw'' on the throttle body. don't need it, don't touch it.

running rough suddenly ... my guess is the timing has jumped a tooth or two. but it could be some thing really simple. lose wire, or a vac leak. it is going to take some investigation to figure it out. check all the wore connections under the hood, especially the spark plug wires. buy some carb cleaner and spray it around the smaller vacuum hoses under the hood. if the idle picks up you have found the vac / intake leak. remove the timing covers on the cam sprockets, 4 big roundish things on the front of the engine, 2 each side. check to see if the timing hash marks line up correctly. below is a pic of timing marks for the ej25 engine. but if i know subaru, it is identical for the ej20 engine. all the timing for marks SOHC ej engines are the same 89 - 04. so it stands to reason all the DOHC timing will be the same too.)

is this accurate? i have never heard of this before. but then i have never driven a 92 lego before either.

check this out, in PA. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/67-classifieds/61442-fs-pa-4-car-partout.html

the ECUs need to match the wiring in the car. for some years this is not a big deal, there were no real changes in the ECUs. but in other years there were changes and the chassis wiring and the ECU need to match.. in subarus, swapping the ECU does not help unless you also swap the wiring harness in the car. the only ej22s that will swap easily in to the 99 forester are the 99 - 00. and there are not a lot of those. another option for a replacement engine is to find a 96 - 04 ej25 short block from an engine with a busted timing belt. this means the engine was running when the belt failed and it probably was not overheating or knocking. swap in your heads and intake and go. the 00 - 02 ej25 is a non-EGR engine. the 03 - 04 ej25 is an EGR engine. if the 99 forester is a SOHC engine it MAY NOT have egr, but you need to double check.

no difference. 100% interchangeable. one came out a before the other. maybe / probably an earlier model year.

92 lego is a cable. 95 lego is a speed sensor and wires to the speedo.

no reason for the newer intake manifold. if you are running it in an obd1 car, you need the intake manifold to match the car. all the ej22 intakes, 90 - 98, will bolt on. but you need the 92 wiring.

auto or manual trans? this first. you have to lift and pull forward.