johnceggleston

thanks, but i think i'll have to wait a bit. lots of other stuff coming up in may. hopefully i can find something local. but thanks for getting back to me.

i have seen leaks on the valve cover gaskets and the large o-ring gasket for the oil cooler at the filter. they are notorious for leaking. but if you are going to put this in a porsche. you are probably not going to miss much. good luck and stay in touch.

i tried, a little - not much, to track down just what those codes refer to with no success. do you have any drive ability issues? do you know what the codes refer to? and of course the most important, done any work recently? what the codes mean may indicate where the problem is but if these are out of the blue i would suspect a connection problem has it been raining recently? driven through any deep water? and lastly, if this is your DD, just pull the fuse and be a smart driver. if it is your wife's, well then ........ good luck and keep at it.

yes, compare the parts you removed to the new parts. this couls well be the problem. if not it has to be the wheel bearing. did you loosen the axle nut at any time? how many miles on the wheel bearing? does it grind when you turn it by hand without the wheel?

absolutely. do a search for ''ej22 swap'' and read up. (or maybe ''ej25 swap'') tons of info on this. i have done it twice. which are you swapping, the engine or the trans? needless to say there are details you need to know of to avoid trouble.

tell him not to . IF that is part of the issue it is not the total issue. better to nail down some other stuff first. like what is the front ratio? and there is no reason the replace the VC if the ratios are wrong and the trans has to be replaced.

ring gear...........ratios 37 teeth = 3.7 (10 tooth pinion) or 4.11 (9 tooth pinion) 39 teeth = 3.9 (10 tooth pinion) or 3.54 (11 tooth pinion) 3.54 is rare, i have never seen it used in a legacy. 40 teeth = 4.44 (9 tooth pinion) the ones in red are the most common for 5 speed manual AWD trans 90 - 04. but that does not rule out the others for this unusual JDM trans.

the diff ratios do not match, duh. i don't have any idea what combination of FD ratios would create a ~40% difference. so i would guess that the mis-match has ''worn'' the center VC so it isn't quite right. i would re-do the test but i would warm up the center diff befor i jacked up the second wheel by rotating the first one a bit. until you can't any more. or maybe just jack up one wheel and see if you can rotate one wheel at all. the VC should keep it from turning but i suspect you will be able to. at least some. what i'm getting at is , i think the VC is slipping and the rotation test is not 100% accurate. i don't really know the interworkings of the manual trans, but in the auto trans the transfer gear ratio, what ever it is , applies to both the front and rear wheels. so it is a non-issue. (the input shaft is along the top of the trans, all gear shifting is done along that shaft. at the rear of the trans the power / rotations are ''transferred'' to the lower shaft which then sends it forward to the front diff and rearward to the rear diff. but this is how the AT does it. idk about the MT.) still, there is not a FD ratio combination that would creat a 40% difference. so you still do not know what the ratios are. time to pull the plug, drain the front diff and use a flash light and marking pen to count the teeth on the ring gear. there are only a few different combinations possible. can we assume the rear diff is factory?

careful, there are some people who might thing that is a bargain. i doubt your sister would.

if fuel was coming out of the canister, the 3 lines on the driverside are wrong. the hose from the fuel filter goes to the upper most metal line. if that is not right, correct it. if that is correct, swap the 2 smaller lines.

if you are handy, the cheapest solution is to buy a good ej22, 90 - 98 engine (90 - 94 are probably cheaper, not much demand), or even just a short block, and swap the heads and intake from the 99 on to the ''new'' block. the 99 ej22 is a phase 2 engine and a 90 - 98 ej22 will not swap in easily. but the block, crank, rods and pistons of the 90 - 98 ej22 will bolt on to the 99 heads and intake and you will be good to go. either for you or for them. or you could source a 99 - 00 ej22 but there aren;t very many of them, and they tend to be lots more expensive than a 90 - 98 engine / block. good luck.

i think so. i remember nipper talking about how they corrected the issue in mid 97???? but i have drivien a 95 a 97 obw and a 97GT and never had an issue with any of them.

it is probably the backing plate. check the backing plate to make sure it is not rubbing on the rotor. this is common. turn the wheel by hand with it in the air until you hear the scraping. take it apart again and remove the rotor. it may be mounted cockeyed, or crooked. it's rare but it has happened. does the wheel turn true or does it have a wobble? did you get the bolts on the caliper seated correctly? they bolt in to the slide pins, ?

i think the earlyest legos (90 - 91 maybe), or maybe imprezas, can't remember, had a different top mount and slightly different bolt hole pattern on the tower. but lots of folks have swapped in outback or forester struts just the same. you can either modify the bolt holes in the tower, or use the original top hats on the ''new'' struts / springs.

$500 - $800 , maybe a little more. but if you ask for that you will get less.

when the eco light flashes and you only have third gear the trans is in ''limp'' mode. (that's what t is called in the US) limp mode means the TCU is not operating correctly and the trans defaults into third gear mechanically, not electronics, so you can ''limp'' home. i do not know all the things that will cause this, but a bad connection to the TMU is one. check the connectors on the rear of the engine near the fire wall on the right side (passenger side in US) where the trans meets the engine. the largest connector goes to the trans. open it up and look at the pins. make sure they are not bent. i might also remove the TMU and open the case to examine the circuit board. the TMUs do not fail very often but they do on occasion. look for evidence of overheating.

in the 95 - 97 cars it looks like this. not sure about the 90 - 94 cars.

only one heat / AC fan. 2 radiator fans. right? so if rooster is takling about rad fans then that may not help. 95 - 99 have a knob you turn for fan speed. i'm not familiar with the 90 - 94 fan controls so ..... good luck.

it works if you unplug the TCU (or the large connector on the rear of the engine feeding the trans) and start the engine and put it in ''N''. then the wheels, front and rear, are ''locked'' in 4WD, a torque bind set up. (assuming the transfer clutch discs are good.) endwrench suggested this method to check for matching front and rear diffs on auto trans cars. it works great. but i would block the other two wheels incase you accidentally shift into gear instead of ''N''.

the IM on the 95 ej18 is taller than the one on the ej22 (it is also obd1), and therefore the EGR pipe is longer. i'm not not 100% about the ej22 wiring on the ej18 IM. the obd1 / 2 line may be a defining differnce. i know the IM will swap, i have done that. but i'm not sure the TPS is the same and so i don't know if the connector will swap. ej18s, 93 - 95 at least, do not have a knock sensor, so that wiring is not usable in a swap. but if the 97 ej18 IM is compatable this would be another source for an EGR intake. better check that out.

i think all ej18s have EGR.

i don't know a lot about the center viscous coupling, but i would suggest you do the test when the transd is hot. you want the viscous coupling to be really grabby. you might rotate one tire when only one is in the air. once the VC starts to grab then lift the other tire. also, the difference between 4.11 and 4.44 is about 8%. so 12 rotations might make the tires end up in the same location. but 6 rotations should make one tire 180 degrees off. if the ratios are different.

try this: http://www.car-part.com put in your zip and sort by distance.

''theimportexperts'' on ebay have good parts at good prices. lots of folks use them for timing idlers, water pump, tensioner and belt. i use subaru oil seals, they cost about $35 ? for the front of the car. saving 5-7$ on those prices is not a big deal to me when spending over $250 on everything. besides, i know the quality of the subaru seals. the t-stat and gasket is another 18 - 24$, but i'm not sure i would replace it. of all the t-stat and overheating issues i have read about none were due to a bad factory t-stat. all were because an after market t-stat was installed or not a t-stat issue at all, but a head gasket issue. i may be short sighted about replacing it. but i have driven over 250k subaru miles on 5 cars, all purcheased used with at least 100k miles, and i have never had to replace a bad ''subaru'' t-stat. but they are not real expansive and it is your money. so suit your self. good luck. and welcome on board.

buy a used subaru alternator and drive on.