johnceggleston

surging idle sound slike a vac leak. check your vac hoses, make sure there are no vac hose nipples on the intake with no hose attached.

my 00 legacy ej25 auto trans spun the rod bearing on #4 at 82k miles. about 200 miles after i bought it. it started knocking one day, for a little while, and then quit. it came back a few days later and then died altogether the same day.

check the timing.

i usually use a large screwdriver to move the caliper towards the rotor, toward the outside i think. then i insert the blade in between the rotor and the pad. since the pads are being replaced it does not matter if you damage them. on the 95 fronts, the lower bolt doubles as a slide pin. the bolt is probably a 12 or a 14. the lug nuts are 19mm so 5 lug nuts, and 1 slide pin bolt, and you swap the pads. tip, once the caliper swings up out of the way, you can slide it off of the upper pin by moving it toward the engine. it slides right off. lube the pins before you bolt it back up.

there is one other cause of HLA chatter which should be mentioned. if RVT sealant ''gooped'' into the oil pump the last time you had it off. it is possible that it could flow with the oil up into the rocker assembly, and limit oil flow to the HLAs. it has happened before. and it is not unusual. but maybe not the first thing to look for unless you recently serviced the oil pump, or the chatter started right after you did.

just my opinion, but if you are going to add ''stuff'' to your engine oil, i would stick to known retail products, and i would only do it for a very limited time. there is too great a risk of screwing up your engine if you use some home made brew. i am unwilling to risk my engine on something grand paw used to talk about, that i think i remember correctly, that i hopefully use exactly right. a very wise man once told me , the best way to clean an engine is to change the oil very often, every 1k miles. slow but safe and sure. for this particular problem, removing the adjusters, cleaning them and assessing them is the right way to go. for a lessor problem, like chatter after an engine swap, letting the engine run will usually loosen them up. but if not, if the problem persists, then do the R & R, and clean them. replace as needed. one tip i read, when re-installing them have the pin-hole align with the oil supply galley in the rocker arm. good luck.

they added a large security / integrity bolt to the door jamb in 97. it adds to the safety of the car in a crash. it MAY be possible to install a later door in an earlier car, but i do not know. it is not possible to install an earlier door a later model. (unless you remove the bolt. not recommended.) plus the wiring harness is different for the door lock system on the front doors. but i thought you were looking for a taupe door. they only came on the 95 - 96 cars.

95 - 96 doors are the same. and 97 - 99 doors are the same. sedan or wagon, it does not matter. BUT, BUT, BUT, the rear door glass is different, sedans to wagons, 95 - 99. the roof line on the sedan drops so the door glass is shorter. b ut if you swap your glass over you will be good. i had a 95 sedan in taupe. i'm pretty sure they only offered it 95 - 96.

does your car have EGR now? if no , then you do not need it. as far as which year to use, 2 things come to mind . OBD 1 or 2 and emissions crap. obd2 is more helpful, imho, but i logic tells us that the older cars would have less emissions crap on them.

what he said. if you put the 97 intake on the 98 engine it will be like the 97. the only other difference i can think of is the t-belt tensioner. the 98 uses the one piece unit. personally i prefer the two piece on the 97, they last longer.

what oil are you using? does it lose any in 3000 miles? my 95 would start to chatter when the oil level was too low. add oil and it would stop. check the oil pump.

the one piece must be compressed very, very, slowly, in the correct position , installed position, (but not installed). and usually they need to be replaced with every timing belt change 100k miles. they will last longer, but not forever. so on a 60k belt interval, like your ej22, maybe replace it every 120k miles.

there should be an ID tag on the driver side strut tower under the hood with the engine ID number. i think the difference between the 251 and the 252 is the manual trans. the manual trans version has a timing belt guide at the crank sprocket. sorry i don't know which is which. check out http://opposedforces.com/parts for more info.

the cam triggers fuel. the crank triggers spark. have you gotten any trouble codes? check the codes.

firing with the starting fluid means you have a fuel issue. and this is too late, but the crank triggers spark the cam triggers fuel when it does start, does it idle high or low? does it idle? or ju8st fire up and then die?

matt's right, the 99 AT will not swap. the manual trans should not be an issue as long as both are ej25 cars. the final drives will match. sorry for the bad info.

absolutely. > TIMING BELT ARTICLES <____________________________ > Timing Belt Pictures <

99 ej25 DOHC engine intro a 98 ej25 car.... the engine is plug an play. the bell housing of the engine is different so you will only have 4 engine to trans bolts to use, but once it is bolted in you are good to go. the trans will not swap. don't even try. it fits 00 - 03 cars, outbacks.

it is typical to bend some valves. not guaranteed. intake valves makes sense but i have not studied it. but it is possible to escape bent valves altogether. it happens occasionally. presumably this engine was timed wrong during belt replacement. i do not know if that is better or worse. re-install the belt and see. no parts to buy, just some time. remove the rad fans and have at it. you can test run it without the alt / steering belts or timing covers. you could probably do the compression test that way as well, if needed.

this is a 97 model year, and it has adjustable valve clearance. it is also an interference engine, you may have bent valves. re-hang the belt and see how it runs. if it runs well, drive it. if wonky, do a compression test. if compression is bad, buy a replacement head, (probably cheaper than machine shop and valve replacement?????) (www.car-part.com sort b y zip code.) do a search for ''ej22 timing marks.'' the simple answer is the hash marks , NOT the ARROWS. crank hash is on rear tab, cam hash is on front face outer edge. put all three at 12 oclock. all pistons will be at mid-stroke.

this guy has 2 blocks for $125.00 each. Randy's Auto Parts and Towing USA-WA(Okanogan) 2001 Engine Block Subaru Forester 2.5,EFI,5 Sp,AWD, $125

i have read that the gasket has to match the block, but i'm not sure. just so you know, have all the info before you start, you can also use a 96 - 04 ej25 block, double or single cam. i know you have said money is the issue, so you have to use the ej22 block. but regardless of what block / engine you use, you are going to spend several hundred getting this right. and it is going to take some time. and what if you can't get it right? can't get it back on the road? then what? there are a ton of other good and not expensive options. please study this before you start. i would look for a 00 - 04 ej25 engine with a bad timing belt, bent valves. swap on her heads and off you go. the only extra cost is the block.

does it do it only after you have driven it, only when the engine is warm? does it do it when the engine is cold, first start of the day? if the computer thinks the engine is cold when it is not , it could be the ECTS, temp sensor.

i'll bet it does. have you ever run out of gas? when you fill up, how many gals. do you pump? my guess is you only pump 10 - 12 gals. the light comes on when you have about 2 gals. lwft. the tank holds 60 liters, 15.9 gals. run it dry one time and see if i'm not right. see? i told you it worked.

remember to ''fix'' the cause of the warped rotors.