johnceggleston

the timing is off. this is the most common cause of a no start after major engine work. did you use the correct timing marks? NOT the ARROWS, NEVER the ARROWS. the hash mark on the front edge of the cam sprockets. and the hash mark on the rear of the crank sprocket. double check. when the crank sprocket is in the correct position, the crank keyway will be down in the 6 oclock position. did you replace the cam seals? did you get the correct sprocket on the driver side? if you removed the intake manifold, double check the wire connectors.

this is classic torque bind. but the good news is that the duty c solenoid is working. i would recommend doing a drain and fill of the ATF 3 times with driving around the block in betwen each. this will replace most of the old fluid. then drive it in slow tight figure eights and see if the problem lessens. dirty fluid , gummed up transfer clutch discs, and or a dirty valve body can cause binding. i could be the clutch discs are bad, but new fluid is tyhe first step to see if it corrects the problem.

have you put the fuse in the FWD holder under the hood passenger side near the fire wall.?

i was at Merchants Tire today getting my state inspetion done. and the manager told me that the mother company, NTB or Tire Kingdom has just bought Midas Muffler, and a few others. oh well.

what's wrong and what are you trying to do? technically the ''hub'' is the part that spins. and it is pressed into the wheel bearing which is pressed into the ''knuckle''. a used hub / knuckle assebly is not hard to install. you can get one for about $35. 2 bolts, 19mm, for the brake caliper 2 bolts for the strut 1 nut for the tie rod end 1 nut for the ball joint and 1 bolt for the sway bar end link. for the price of the bearing, ~$50, and $50 labor, you can pull yours and have a machine shop install a new wheel bearing. and then reinstall the hub/knuckle assembly. the hidden cost in this is the wheel alignment you will need afterwards. you may be able to avoid this by marking the bolt head for the top strut to knuckle bolt. it adjusts the wheel camber and if you reinstall the bolt EXACTLY like it was you may be ok. i'm not sure if the same is true with a replacement knuckle. but it is worth a try.

the4 brain for the remoter entry, is the same as trhe brain for the alarm. the cars with the alarm have a ''horn'' under the hood and probably more wiring. i think the 99 system is different than the 98 system, but i'm not sure. link below for info on keyless entry / alarm systems. you can buy a used remote that looks like the one for your car and it should work after you program it. good luck. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html

well it was in fact a loose ground wire. the one on rthe intake right next to the coil pack. the bolt was lose. i swapped in the engine last summer and i guess i was just lucky for the last 6- 8 months. but messing around in there working with the axle must have knocked loose. i had checked for both engine and trans codes and got neither. but almost every time i drove it the AT Temp light would flash. i'm just glad i don't have to take it to AAMCO transmissions.

as gary mentioned there are pros and cons to this mod. pro, 50/50 split. con / 50/50 split. the same thing that makes it great in mud , snow, or sand, makes it suck on dry pavement. and it is not exactly like the viscous coupling center diff in the manual trans. that still allows for a speed differential front to rear in tight turns. this mod does not. but a few things you may not have read, the computer and the transfer clutch in the auto trans work really really well in most circumstances. when a front wheel spins, more power is sent to the rear. it does it automatically even if you do not there is a need. and in most cases this is all you need. it also kicks in at WOT. and when the shift selector is in 1 or 2, it stays in that gear, not shifting up or down (except at ultra high rpms to protect the engine.) and so i ask the question, how often at hiway speed do you need locked 4wd. how oftwn in 3rd do you need locked 4wd. if you want to race run / race your car on a dirt track at fairly high speeds and want locked 4wd, have at it. or if it snows in your area a lot and you drive on snow covered roads to work most of the winter and faster is better. go for it. just remember to turn it off when the pavement is dry. imho, the perfect switch is a ''latching'' one like on the cruise control, . you turn it on when ever you want, but when you turn off the car, it turns off the 4wd ''lock''. trans is back to normal. a limited slip rear diff probably costs more but will greatly enhance your ''off road'' or bad weather capability with much less chance of damaging your drive train. adding both a latching switch, and a LSD would be killer.

www.car-part.com any questions?

sometimes the TCU can cause issues. there have been reports of the circuit boards having scorch marks. but just a part not working when HOT , even with no scorch marks seems possible. i had a 95 lego L auto that had an intermittent issue. when it got TB i put the fuse in. some times the fuse would work and somnetimes it wold not. some time the FWD lite was on and sometimes it was off. two possible causes, either the TCU or the duty C is intermittent. i vote TCU, unless you doubt your mrchanics ability.

the alt may be under rated for the car. try turning things offm lights, heater fan, seats?, when the lights come on. the lego and impreza have lower amp ratings i think. also some re-mans are crap. where did you buy it?

there are 2 belts, one for thepower steering and the alt, that adjustment is in the alt bracket. and one for the AC compressor, that adjustment is in thetensioner pulley on thefront of the engine. both / all of the above from the ej25 will bolt on to your new ej22.

the clock spring in the steering wheel, itis the mechanism that moves the wiring from the steering colmn to thr steering wheel, it is bad.

oil level ok? are yuou sure the noise was comong from inside the valve cover?

there are several things that will cause the transfer clutch to NOT send power to the rear. bad front speed sensor bad warn out dlutch discs in the transfer clutch possibly, wear grooves in the clutch drums (dicsc hang up) possibly dirty / plugged/ gummed up valve body ? or the TCU. it sounds like it may be intermittent. i'm not sure what this means or points to.

buy one that looks like the pic in the link and it will work fine. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#alpine

what happens if you manually shift it to 1 and then drive it in the field? front wheels spin?

i wear the blue golves, brand and thickness varies. but they don't last long enough. they usually last through a saturady afternoon task, but not through a full day of wrenching. if still un-torn when the job is done i'll save and reuse. but for heavy jobs they don't last. in looking for a better solution, i picked up a pair of ''dishwashing'' gloves, like playtext but generic. they have lasted through 4 struts, one wheel bearing, one axle, two batteries, and a knock sensor. they cost about $2.50? but so far so good. i'm not sure they will last 10 times longer than the cheap ones. before trying the playtex gloves, especially in the cold, i would wear blue latex / nitrile gloves plus the brown cotton. for dirty , but not greasy, i will wear brown cotton jersey or white cotton with ''plastic bumps'', but eventuall they get greasy and need to be washed. which i do when i wash my overalls and ''not too greasey'' rags. and at some point they get holes in them. but as long as you are working on old cars, you are going to get dirty.

you will have to use the EGR pipe that is on the ej18. when swapping the other way, the injectors on the intake work just fine. the ej18 may / will have hoses for ''air injection?, not sure how that ties in.? the ej18 also has a metal line attached to the exhaust on the passenger side head. i think this is also part of the ''air injection'' system. the ej22 will not have this. so i would look to see how to delete all of that. hopefully there are no ''sensors'' connected to that system.

the different trans is a non-issue, just remove the flex plate and swap on the fly wheel, or vice versa. the 03 ej25 has EGR so the intake is different. and at some point in the 00 - 04 years they changed the cam and crank sprockets. so the rule of thumb is to swap in the original cam (driver side) and crank sprockets. and swap the intake manifold. but this will require plugging the hole in the rear of the driver side head. the intake issue may be resolved by just swapping the wiring harness from the oriiginal engine on to the repalcement intake. for the AC / Alt. bracket it i'm not sure. it may depend on the year, not sure. when swapping a 90s ej22 into a 90s ej25 car it is recommended to swap the ej25 bracket onto the ej22. i don't know why, but that is the norm.

go to a parts store and get the obd codes read. report the pxxx code back here. TPS is one issue that will throw a CEL and AT Temp light. the MAF is another. check the connectors for the maf , the TPS and the 3 connectors on the rear of the engine passenger side. make sure they are clean, fully seated and that none of the pins are bent. did you remove the TPS during the install? maybe to make room so you could get to the torque converter bolts. is yes, that is the issue. i would ask for your money back from the dealer. you paid $490 and they failed to fix your car.

in the US, 00 - 01 (maybe more years) ej25s do not have a MAF, they are MAP only.

probably not holding the pinch bolt closed, but still locking the ball joint in place. the base of the ball joint has a groove cut in it. when the ball joint is seated correctly and the bolt is inserted the shaft of the bolt rests in the grove on the ball joint. if some bolt is left behind, especially if it is in the middle where the opening is for the ''pinch'' is, it will not allow the ball joint out. next time you have a knuckle with the ball joint out, insert the bolt and feel inside of the BJ seat. you will feel the bolt shaft. the bolt is not just applying pinch pressure.

i have heard tales of removing the knuckle entirely and then digging the ball joint out of the knuckle with a hammer and hefty screwdriver.basically hammering the screwdriver in bewtween the ball joint anf the knuckle housing and then prying it out. this boogers up the ball joint so bad that once you start you have to continue. so i would use this as a last resort.

that tire will increase your ground clearance another 1.5'' over what ever the struts and springs give you. it will also make your speedo off by12%. you will be going 78.5 mph when the speedo says 70. it will also change the power curve, the car will be slightly more sluggish off the line.