johnceggleston

it should be self priming. but turning it from lock to lock several times will help eliminate air from the system.

i would suggest: run one strap under the rear hatch and snug it up to the hinges, then close the hatch. this is a much more secure tie down point that the rack itself, i think. plus it will make your tie down points longe, farther apart. run another strap through the windows of the front seat with the windows down a bit. again, this will give a longer, more secure stance. you can do the same in the back seat if you have an extra strap. and finally, as mentioned at least one line, rope, strap, from the shipping ''tie down'' on one side of the front under the car to the ''tie down'' on the other side of the rear under the car. this way the rack is only being used for the weight load, and as a stand off to protect the roof. not as a secure tie down point. and go slow, do not brake hard except in an emergency, life or death. if the load starts to shift forward , not thing you do is going to stop that except taking your foot of the brake and maybe putting it back on the gas. good luck.

the knuckle, bearing and hub are pressed together they are not coming apart. sometimes they do not come apart when you need them to. you will likely have to remove the inner seal to install the snap ring, which may damage it. i don't think you need the ring, maybe why it was left off in the first place. but i'm not an expert so i could be wrong. the snap ring may keep the bearing from coming out when you are trying to replace it, but if the bearing get loose in the knuckle, the sanp ring is not going to help you any.

this may be a dealer only part. you can get it from an online deasler for less. tracking down the part number may be challenging. try http://opposedforces.com/parts FYI: if the duty c is faulty or bad, the FWD will not light up when you put in the fuse.

as someone here once said, any aliminum block / head engine can blow a head gasket. and apparently there are some newer subarus still today having issues. and for thoses of us who drove and love the ej22 which seems to have NO gasket issues, any gasket failure is too many. the real question is , does subaru have more than the industery at large or more than honda, nissan, or toyota?

the cars have nothing in common except ..... too much time in mall parking lots?

the pump is succking air. typically this is a bad o-ring on the suction hose bolted to the top of the pump coming from the reservoir. so i would check there first.

apparently there is a difference between the outback rack and the legacy (brighton, L, LSi, GT) rack in the 90s. i don't know what the difference is but there is a difference. it could have something to do with the added height of the outback. maybe.

i don't think there is a difference. but the way to tell is to look up the part number at http://opposedforces.com/parts . once you have found the steering rack gor the GT, they call it something like steering gear i theink, once you have found it, click on the part number and then on the ''usage info''. that will give you a list of all the cars that part was used on.

the need to pump them typically means they need to be bled, air in the system. but it could be something else causing the problem. once you pump them up does the pedal stay firm if you keep your foot on it? or does it slowly sink to the floor? did the pedal problem begin after the wheel bearing was replaced? or before? if the caliper was disconnected from the brake line and re-installed without bleeding the systwem that would cause the pedal problem.

thank goodness , i fixed it, but i don't know exactly how. i went back and redid everthing i had done previously and it now runs. so i must not have fully seated one of the connectors. thanks GD. glad to be back on the road.

because yours is FWD there are almosrt no limits to what will fit. you can use any FWD trans 90 - 94 for sure. probably 95 - 97. all the 4eat that have the trans ID# TA102Axxxx are the same. (AWD trans would be TZ102Zxxxx) they will all plug in work with you TCU. (even the AWD units) and although there is no need to match the final drive ratio to the rear, there MAY be different ratios in different years. this could affect you MPG. check josh's site for ratios :http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32148 and www.car-part.com for parts. good luck

i'm not sure what lift blocks are exactly. but you can get blocks that bolt inbetween the top of the strut and the chassis of the car. this will lift it a bit. i saw an ad on CL here in VA for some. i think it was 3/4 '' up through 2'' price varying up to $250. http://blacksburg.craigslist.org/pts/3617929900.html Subaru lift kits - $100 (rural rtreat) I'm making and selling lift kits for Subaru legacy, outbacks, and foresters. Anywhere from 1/2" to 2". Depending on Height determines price. 2" is 250 and 1/2" is 75. Call or text 2766131229. Location: rural rtreat it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

what connector, sensor, hose, or wire do these codes have in common? p0122 TPS - circuit low input p0107 MAP - circuit low input po117 CTS (coolant temp) - circuit low input p0325 Knock Sensor - circuit low input p1112 pending - Atmospheric pressure sensor range/performance problem i was replacing the passenger front axle. i removed the back half of the air filter box so i reach down in and work it around. once i finally finished i wanted to take it for a test drive. oops!! the car will start, but will not idle. i have to play with the gas to keep it alive. and i got the above codes. i'm sure i left something unpluged, or knocked some thing off, or even broke something, but i can not find it. the 3 main engine connectors are still there, i have opened, cleaned and reconnected them. the 3 vent tubes are connected to the air box, left, right and center. the air plenum was connected properly and clamped. and the air box was closed and seal properly. the ''stuff'' on the strut tower looks untouched. this is a head scratcher. i'm not 100% sure the knock sensor is actually a part of this since i replaced it as well, but it could be. i guess i will swap the old one back in and see what happens. it was a cheapie from china. i have used them before on my 97 GT ej22 swap with no problems, but who knows? not sure how it could cause problems with all this other stuff. let me know if you have any answers, i'm going back to try again. thanks,

the white connector is for the subaru'' select monitor'' or something like that. the black connector is for diagnoing trouble codes for the trans, air bags and ABS if ytou have them.

well that is the correct trans for the car. where did it come from? was there a warranty? i realize you probably don't have a lot of answers, but just thought i'd ask. no telling what he was doing. and the only reason to wonder is so you can sort out where to go next. how torn apart is the rear of the trans. he would have to go pretty far to hurt something. i might try putting it back together and test driving it. even if the AWD does not work you may still be able to drive it in FWD for the short term.

what is the ID# on the bell housing of the trans at the starter?

it sounds like when he said it needed a drive shaft what he really meant was the front and rear ratios do not match and i removed the drive shaft. this is just a guess. ANSWER: you can use any trans out of a 2.5L car 96 - 98, Outback, GT, LSi, Forester. some 99s will also work but not many. all of these trans will have an ID# on the bell housing starting with TZ102Z2xxx .(x = a letter) the auto trans out of a 2.2L car (ej22) WILL NOT WIRK unless you swap in the matching rear diff. the ID tag on the driver side strut tower under the hood has the correct ID# for the trans that was in your car. it will be either a TZ102Z2CBA, or TZ102Z2DBA check the ID number on the trans in your car. i bet it is missing the 2 after the second Z, in other words it will be something like TZ102Zxxxx (x = a letter. an impreza trans may end in xnxx where n = number. this is not the same as the trans you need.) he probably started tearing the rear end of the trans apart thinking he could change the diff ratio there. just a guess. a possible solution is , use the rear extension housing off of your old trans and put the that is in your car back together. you can drive it with out the rear section of drive shaft until you find eithr a matching rear diff or a good used trans.

it may be slightly different, but it will bolt in and run just fine. it has the needed 4.44 final drive ratio .

there seems to be a debate about the springs, but the struts will add 2" regardless of what spring you use. except lowering springs. i just put 01 outback struts and springs on my 00 lego wagon. when i compared the strut/ spring setup, lego to outback, the spring height was EXACTLY the same for the front. this suggest to me that the spring makes no difference. and although the piston may be able to compress a little farther, it cannot extend any farther. the extra lenght is in the lower half of the strut. the finished spring lenght on the rears appeared to be about 1/4 inch taller. the struts were about 2" taller. so in my opinion, all of the lift is accomplished because of the longer lower half of the struts. there is a different part number for the lego spring and the outback spring, but even if the outback spring is taller, it just means it ends up being ''stiffer'' because it is being bolted into a mount that compresses it to the lego lenght. so if you are on a budget, buy used strut and spring setup from a salvage yard, about $40 - $50 each. if you have the money, buy new KYB_GR2 outback struts and use your lego springs, about 85$ each. or if you want, buy new or used outback springs and use them with the KYBs. $$?? all 3 will lift the car about 2 inches. http://www.car-part.com for parts.

the above is true, but there are year limitations. not all struts interchange with all years. but outback struts and springs on the same ''style / year'' leagacy will work. (95 - 99, or 00 - 04 )

i was assuming that the clock was a part of the tach assembly, like the odo was a part of the speedo. but i must admitt i have not looked at my car today so maybe i'm wrong.

i just priced a replacement tach , $22.00. sounds cheap, i better double check the part number. i guess that's what i'll do, eventually.

thanks.

plugs and wires first. this is the most common cause. imho, plugs and wires cause more misfires than all other things combined. move the wire to a different cylinder. see if the mis moves.