johnceggleston

i don't really expect a solution, but you never know. the digital clock in my 00 lego wagon, w/ ej25 and 85k miles, runs fast. it gains a minute or more each weak. is this common? any fix other than a replacement? any chance it is a voltage thing?

at 175k i would think just replacing the head gaskets would be all you need, $1500 or so.. if the engine had bad rod bearings they would have shown up already. and you know the history of this engine. a replacement low mileage engine from japan is about $1000 plus the install. of course, the gaskets would not be new. a fully rebuilt engine is going to be really expensive, $3500 maybe more, i'm not sure. plus the install. if new gaskets cost $1200 and it lasts for 12k miles, that is a pretty good return on your investment, 10 cents a mile. if you drive it 24k miles that is a great return on the investment, 5 cents a mile. how many miles do you drive a year??

the clanging noise is odd. makes me think the flex plate is gone , but i don't know why. there is an acsess hole for the TC / flex plate bolts. it is under the throttle body, passenger side, near the fire wall. it has a black plastic / rubber plug, it is kind of an odd shape. check it out. what did the fluid look like? the auto trans in these cars are usually pretty hardy, if you service them. but even with out fluid changes, 139k is prety young for a failure. but maybe. but you can get a used one for a pretty good price if you need it, and just swap it in. look at www.car-part.com , put in your zip and sort by distance to see what is close.

90 - 96 are non-interference. 90 - 96 also have HLAs. this means there is no valve adjustment. pull a valve cover and look.

depending on year, model, engine, trans, miles, ... yes, the california spec belt is rated at 105k miles. but you better be sure to replace everything else, pullies, waterpump, etc. unless you want a filure on one of those. (note: ALL jdm subarus, 90 - 04, have a 100k kilometer interval. that is about 60k miles.) the last itme i checked, the local parts store had the 60k belt in stock and it cost more. the 105k belt you had to order and it was cheaper. i don't know the life span, interval for the belts you get with the ebay kits from ''theimportexperts''. but i still use them and ASSUME it is 60k. quality parts for a good price. info please.

aftermarket axles will not create a rough or low idle. they can, on auto trans cars , cause a vibration when sitting with the car in D and your foot on the brake.(at a stop light) the test is that it goes away when you shift it into N or P. in fact, the axle does not CREATE the vibration, it simply transmits the normal engine vibration to the chassis. i assumed it was due to the joints being too tight, but i do not know. i would think too loose would be cause the axle to rattle in between the two fixed points at either end, but whatever....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136351-fs-va-struts-00-lego-wgn-and-00-outback-wagon/ where are you located??

typically you can find out what will fit by searching www.car-part.com. put in your zip and sort by distance. your search for a 00 legacy spring will return all that match / fit. i'm pretty sure the legacy has a didfferent part number than the outback , the forester, or the baja. for more info, you can search for your part at http://opposedforces.com/parts. this will give you part numbers, click on it and then on the usage info . you will see a list of the cars the uase that part. i have a complete set of struts and springs off a 00 legacy wagon, with 85k miles if you are interested. i swapped in outback struts. what broke, front or rear, left or right?

or buy used replacement parts, the boot, the ''wood colored'' trim and maybe the larger trim piece. depends on how it attaches as to what you need.

2000 leagacy wagon auto trans w/ 85k miles. the right front wheel bearing was making noise and i wanted to swap in outback struts, so i did the fronts last week. replacing the struts are easy. i had some trouble with the ball joint when removing the knuckle. and i may have ''over extended'' the outer CV joint. i left the ball joint for last so the knuckle was flopping around a little as i was working on it. i took the knuckle to a local machine shop, $50 the press in the bearing, $45, for the bearing, and $15 for the 2 seals. $115 later i was back installing it all. any way, when i got it back together and test drove it it ran and drove fine. but the next day during a U-turn to the left, i heard the clicking . i'm pretty sure it does it in both directions. Q. any chance i can open the boot and put this thing back together as it should be so it will not click.? or am i screwed and need to replace it? thanks, john

what is the trans id code on the bell housing? a long time ago i heard something like this on JDM auto trans. but it was a long time ago and only one report so i didn't really take it seriously. but i guess it could be.

BEWARE of the $8,000.00 price tag. for that kind of money it better be in excellent mechanical condition and look showroom perfect. outback can be had in VA in fair condition for $2500.

remember, you already have a parts trans.

these sensors are really simple and they do not fail very often. so before i cut any wire or tore apart any connector i would do everything i could to confirm that it is bad. it makes sense that it could ba a bad wire, or connector. and if i understand correctly, you do not have a flashing AT Temp light. if this is correct, then i do not think the rear speed sensor is in fact the problem. however, i'm just playing the odds. and i tend to be very conservative and think that every problem is the most common problem. obviously this is not always the case. but the VSS 1 fails ''10 MILLION'' times less often than the VSS2. (exaggeration intended.) i don't think i remember ever hearing of a rear sensor failing. be sure before you cut.

it should until the contacts for N wear out like thet did for P. the part isn't hard to replace, but lying on the frozen ground to do it would not be my first choice. this could be a loose wire, probably a ground. or maybe a bad connection. is the radio stock? or aftermarket?

congrats on the repair and sticking with it.

the other thing you can do if you do not have your special tool handy, is to remove the castle nut and thread on a lug nut. now you can whack on the nut and not booger the threads or the castle nut. but a good whack to the knuckle has always worked for me. and i didn't even go to catholic school.

you are probably right about all those things going bad at once, but you never know. did you read all the current codes? did you read the past codes? is the oil pan for the trans dented? i would pull the TCU under the dash above the brake pedal and look at the circuit board. it is very rare for them to go bad, but they can. burn or scorch marks would be bad as well as any water damage. been through any high water lately? originally posted by general disorder:

in the US market the 95 - 99 legacys, L, LS LSi, Brighton Outbacks, cars all have the same general body styles. so the fenders, hoods, doors, interiors etc will swap. the drive trains, power trains are pretty much the same for all cars built in that time frame, imprezas and foresters included. (forget about the WRX or SVX, they are unique.) 99 was a transition year, some some engines are different and some auto trans are different. in the european or aisan markets the year span could be 94 - 98, or maybe 96 - 00. but if the car looks like yours the parts will most likely fit yours. but ask first just to be sure. what does your car need?

being only familiar with subarus i can't speak for other car makes and re-torquing,...... but how on earth can you re-torque the final step of ''(7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90 degrees". maybe if the spec was 125 ft lbs you could re-torque, but not 80 - 90 degrees.

there is no real way to know other than to just drive it. however.... what gaskets did you use? did you have the heads checked / resurfaced? was this you first head gasket job? how does it run? i swapped an ej22 into a 98 obw and it smoked, knocked, and stunk when first started. none of those was what i thought they were. but it is still running well two years later. not the same engine as yours but still a subaru. give it a chance, it is a subaru after all. drive it, as long as it has oil you can't really hurt it.

i'm not sure they will swap, they may, but the connectors are different colors and i think the switches are as well.

put a socket & ratchet on the crank pulley blot and rotate the crank back 1/2 inch. the wrench should come right out.

as long as you use subaru wheels you do not have to worry about the offset. they designed so the center line of the wheel falls in the right place, despite the width of the tire. steel wheels are going to be the cheapest option unless you happen across some trying to get rid of some alloys fast because hie wife says they are going in the trash on saturday. 00 - 01 outbacks came with 16'' alloys but the legacy L came with 15''. but in later years they both got bigger, i think. check out www.car-part.com start around 05 and go forward. they will show an assortment of wheels, steel, alloy 15'', 16'' and maybe more. it may nor be the best place or price to buy, but it will show what is available ofr each year. this will help you know what to look for. edit: forester has some 16" steel ''spoked'' wheels in 04?. they may or may not be cheaper.

both, 10mm wider and 10mm x .60 = 6mm taller.