johnceggleston

i would probably bend and reuse it, but why not use the one off the old trans? still have it?

any 95 - 04 legacy, outback, forester, certainly. most imprezas, but maybe not WRX. and probably a lot of 05+ but i'm not familiar with them.

subaru rims with the 5 x 100 bolt pattern will all have the right off set. but there are other car company wheels with 5 x 100 wheels. i do not know the offset but someone will. and if you stick with subaru wheels you do not need to worry about it.

the most important thing is that the tire fit the wheel. it is hard to put 16'' tires on a 15'' wheel.

the new tire is about 1/2 inch taller, diameter, than your current tire. this means it will be 1/4 inch closer to what ever the limiting factor is on the rear of your car. usually the rear spring perch. stick your finger in there and see if you have more than 1/4 inch of space on the inside top of thew tire. you probably do, but double check.

remove the intake manifold and use 1/4 socket and extension laid across the top of the block. 3/8s stuff may work, but with the intake out of the way it is a no brainer. i resisted this technique for too long, but it is the easiest way.

fyi: the cam controls the fuel. the crank controls the spark. check the timing.

it should be plug and play, it is the same trans.

the '00 does not have EGR, does the '02? that probably wouldn't make it miss though. i would probably use the original intake.

install good wires. if that does not help i would visually check the knock sensor. hell for the price on ebay, $15 shipped, i would just replace it. but i would also check the timing, it could be a tooth off.

legacy 90 - 95 are cable driven, 96 plus are wire. but it is easy to convert. there are other issues though. rear trans mount is different. you will always have a flashing AT Temp light because there is no VSS1. i don't really remember why you need a trans but there are a ton of them out there. get one that matches your car and be done with it.

auto trans? 1/ change all the fluids, all fluids including the trans. it can't hurt and it may save you the headache of something over looked. 2/ change the timing belt and EVERY part it touches. the 95 is a non-interference engine, but if you change everything now, you will be good for 60k miles. 3/ when the boots on the axles split / tear, re-boot them do not replace them. subaru axles are good enough to last the life of the car if you keep them lubed. so reboot and re-lube. the after market axles that are readily available are usually crap. do not use them. if you already have one on your car, and you have any issues at all, find a used subaru axle and install it with new boots. 4/ rotate the tires, subaru AWD cars need all 4 tires to be with in 1/4 inch in CIRCUMFERENCE. this is important. do not replace just 1 or 2 or even 3 tires. 5/ rinse the under side of the car, especially the rear wheel wells at the rear bumper. this is the ''rust '' spot for these cars. not a big deal if you live in FL, but still an issue in VA or any partial rust belt state. 6/ given the age of the car, i would assign it to the driver who puts on the most miles. it takes a really long time to wear out a 95 subaru if you are only driving 8k miles a year. it will probably still be good when your child is ready to drive. case in point: i bought a 95 lego sedan in '00 with ~75k miles for $5600. i drove it for 90k miles and in '05 the auto trans lost reverse. (18k miles per year). ( i had never serviced the trans and since i bought it at a repo auction, i doubt the first owner ever serviced it either.) in '06 i swapped in a used trans with 125k miles for $975, and my son drove it to college. 5 years and 43k miles later, (8k miles per year), with a total of 208k miles, i sold it with new timing belt , valve cover gaskets and plugs for $1500. it was and still is a great car. i am sure there is more, but this is a really good start. congrats on the new ride.

They use them on franken-motors, ej25 blocks with ej22 heads.

good work finding the cause of your oil light. i wonder where it was left? was the oil pan removed when the head gaskets were done? there is no real way to tell of the bearings were oil starved and maybe damaged. what's done is done. if there is bearing damage it will not heal. you might have a conversation with the shop. see if they own up to it. i would run some MMO with fresh oil for several hundred miles and change the oil again. there is no way to tell if or when a rod bearing might fail. good luck.

i think, just a wild rump roast guess, they will last a really long time if they are not over torqued. too tight will change the way they are designed to work. go figure. i have some if you need them, 10 for $10, shipped. let me know.

i did this on my 00 lego L when i bought it about 18 months ago and it worked great. soon thereafter the engine spun a rod bearing and the car sat for a while until i could find the time to buy a block and swap it in. then since i had 2 other subarus i was driving, trying to sell one, it sat a bit longer until a started to drive it daily. now, only 1000 miles after buying the car and at least 18 months, the slow to engage is returning. time for trans-x. the point is, the trans-x ages and looses it effectiveness, regardless of miles, in my experience.

pictures are a nice tool, but you saw above they are not definitive. you need a 95 - 98 ej22 with EGR, usually from an auto trans car. but double check. look fr one of these and you will have fewer questions and very little need for pictures. buying from a salvage yard that knows the year and features of the engine and offers a warranty is a pretty safe bet. they sell these thing every day and their success depends on there knowledge and experience. buying one out of some one's garage may be cheaper, but you are going to be relying on your own knowledge and experience. this is not wrong or bad, but more risky if you don't have a lot of either.

that engine does not have the necessary EGR, you will always have a CEL . it looks like a 90 - 94 ej22, dual port engine. it will bolt in and run fine, but you will always have a CEL. that will fail some state inspections and it will definitely make the car much harder to sell. you need an ej22 w/ EGR, typically from a 95 - 98 auto trans car.

the 96 will work as is if it has EGR and if you you swap the matching single port exhaust y-pipe.

lets clear up a few things. the AT Templight is flashing at start up. is this with or with out the TCU unplugged?? did it flash before you unplugged the TCU? does it flash with the TCU pligged back in? if yes, read the codes. the duyt c failure usually causes TBind. i do not remember ever hearing it cause no AWD, but maybe. next test, jack up one side of the car, driver or passenger, both wheels up. unplg the TCU. place the shifter in N and start the car with the hand brake OFF. (it would be really good if the wheels that are on the ground are blocked.) turn the rear wheel by hand, if the front wheel truns the same then the mechanical parts are working. both rear axles good?

this is correct. the legacy went obd2 in 95, i'm not sure about when the impreza changed over. but i would not be surprised if it was obd2 in 95. and if you have the port i would bet it is .

since the bearing is pressed in, there is no need for a snap ring. could it be a seal you see in the diagram?

in a nut shell, you swap the flex plate from your engine onto the new engine (or fly wheel if manual trans) and then drop it in your car. nothing else. there are lots of tips and tricks to make the swap easier, and recommended ''service'' you should do before to install the engine. but in the end it is just a swap. the computer in your car will run the ej22 just fine. i suggest you ''advanced'' search ''ej22 swap'' but just the titles and just in ''new generation'', not the full posts. you will have plenty to read. the 95 ej22 auto trans engine is the preferred engine and the easiest swap so you are good there. if you have an auto trans in your car please search and read the thread titled ''seat torque converter mnwolftrak''.

these guys have a 95 impreza ej22 w/ 158k miles close to st louis for $350. you will need to check if it has EGR first. and you may /probably will have to buy an intake manifold off of a 96 - 97, ej22, legacy or impreza auto trans car to make it obd2. 1995 Engine Subaru Impreza 2.2L (VIN '6' 6th digit)- 158,000 A6734 $350 Parts-X-Press USA-MO(Hillsboro) 1-636-274-1600

you do not have to find an ej22, 2.2L engine, in your area, but it does make it a little cheaper to do so. look here, http://www.car-part.com . put in your zip and sort by distance first. then just for grins, sort by price. shipping an engine will usually cost around $150, but some times you can find a deal mking it worht the shipping. good luck.