johnceggleston

my 02 has an eehhh, eehhh, sound. i traced it to the toe-in (i think) adjustment bolts on the rear cross member. they ride in a rubber bushing of some kind. the noise is usually triggered by a up down movement , but fore and aft maybe could cause it too. (it is the bolt on the diagonal brace that goes from the cross member to the hub housing.) just a thought. i don't even know if 05s have a similar setup.

it probably is the head gaskets, but before you pull the engine i would do a little more testing just to be sure. immediate over heating after refiling the cooling system would mean it is a huge head gasket leak. i would remove the t-stat and see if it is after market. i would fill and run it with no t-stat probably for a week or more. it will run cold and maybe never reach operating temp, but if the head gaskets are leaking, you will need to add coolant at some point. (you may be able to cover part of the rad with cardboard to help the engine run warmer.) if it does not take any coolant over the long term with no t-stat, then the head gaskets are OK. there are other simpler tests, checking for bubbles in the over flow when it is over heating or checking the coolant for hydrocarbons. but until you have confirmed that it is a ''SUBARU'' t-stat, and that it is filled and burped correctly you may be jumping the gun to assume it is the head gaskets.

i knew it was common knowledge. but i sure as hell didn't know why it defaulted to 3rd. thanks

don't forget to drive the car up on the curb and then crawl under and check the drive shaft and rear axles.

auto or manual???? if the front section of the drive shaft is removed the trans will puke fluid, auto or manual. so this is not the situation. for the auto trans, it could be just worn out transfer clutch discs in the rear extension housing.this is not uncommon. or it could be a busted clutch drum. less likely but it still happens. or it could be as simple as a busted rear drive axle. you don't here much about the manual trans with NO AWD. but i guess it is possible. try unplugging the TCU under the dash on the driver side. (it has 2 wide wire connectors, one with 20 pins and one with 16 pins, side by side.) this will put you in ''limp'' mode with reverse and 3rd gears only. and it SHOULD cause torque bind in tight circles on dry pavement. if no TB there is a mechanical problem in the transfer clutch, as mentioned above..

this is great. we need lots more testing on it. hopefully it isn't just this one engine that it works for.

i don't think any will spill out when you pull the shaft unless you tilt the trans. the learning process on pulling the trans goes something like this, remove the shaft, drop the trans, tilt the trans, oops, clean up the ATF. IIRC

here's the tip, NO EJ25 CARS. here's the list. 95 - 98 legacys with ej22 - NO ej25 cars. 95 - 98 imprezas with ej18 or ej22 NO ej25 cars. it could not be simpler. there should be tons to choose from. on http://www.car-part.com, you will have to search each model and year separately.

obviously you have studied this. just a guess, but the smaller ''triangle'' shaped bottom brackets are different sizes. my guess is they are different to make up for the differences in the AC compressors. from the pics, there are 4 long horizontal bolts holding the AC compressor on to the tall bracket and 3 short bolts holding the tall bracket to the block, 2 down from the top and 2 in from the front. is the ''triangle'' piece the problem ?? it has one bolt down from the top into the block??? which bolt hole does not line up??? is there a spare bolt hole on the block near where the ''triangle'' piece bolts to the block?? and we mean no offense, this is the first time i have ever heard this mentioned. for years we have been saying that ALL ej22 blocks are the same. we live by this basic truth.

yeah, i'm with the other guys. all the blocks are the same, so much so you can swap a 99 ej25 outback (phase 2 block with 8 bolt bell housing) A/C bracket on to a 95 ej22 when you swap it in. you must be missing something. look again .

all TZ102Zxxxx are the same electronicly. in some years there may be a slight difference in one specific gear ratio 3rd for instance. like wise, all TA102Axxxx fwd auto trans are the same except there may be a minor difference from one year to the next. AND the final drive ratio mat be different. but of course in FWD tans there is no need to match the FD ratio, no rear diff.

subarus, 90 - 04, do not have a heater control valve. heater core always has flow. the hvac controls inside the car just directs the air flow over the core when heat is needed.

auto or manual? were the replacement parts new or used? known good? or suspected to be good? have you pulled the instrument cluster and checked the screws on the back side of the speedo to see if they are loose?

i'm not sure what you are asking. the auto trans from an ej25 car 96 - 98 will have a 4.44 final drive ratio. if you use this trans you will need thew matching rear diff. your speedo will be off, maybe by 8%. your fuel economy will be down. but you will definitely be ''quicker'' off the line. and finalyy, the auto trans from ej25 cars 96 - 99 will have a trans id number that matches this, TZ102Z2xxx, with a ''2'' after the second Z. none of the ej22 auto trans will have a 2 there. they will all have a letter there. it is best it you stick close to your year. have you tried http://www.car-part.com for parts.

any auto trans 90 - 98 will bolt in , plug in and run, they are all the same. EXCEPT for the final drive ratio in the differential. IIRC, the final drive ratio for your 92 legacy is going to be 3.9. the 91s you listed are going to be 4.1 i think. turbos may be different. i use this as my guide: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32148 in 1995 the the FD ratio for the ej22 cars with auto trans went to 4.11.

the clicking sounds like an axle, CV issue. i don't know how this ties in with a wobbling steering wheel, but i can see how it might.

how long have you had the car? has it always been this way? or is it a recent development? did it develop slowly or suddenly? if it is an auto trans, just for grins, put the FWD fuse in under the hood and go for a test drive. it is always surprising to me how these cars drive differently in FWD.

on the 95 - 99 legos, if the front speed sensor fails the trans will default to FWD. with no way to compare the front and rear wheel speeds it will not send power to the rear. how ever, having said that it seems at WOT it may over ride that programming. or early 90s are a little different than late 90s.

i would save any ''new'' parts you may have installed recently. lots of parts will swap, but there are lots that will not. if both have ABS, or not, the wheel hubs will swap. probably the axles engine will trans may, you will need to double check the final drive ratio. rear diff will if the ratio matches rear brakes will if they are both discs. not sure about the front brakes, but probably. alt ps pump maybe AC compressor, they used 2 kinds so maybe wheels tires front shocks radiator maybe cam sensor crank sensor o2 sensor parts of the exhaust key locks probably ignition key switch will radio should and seats (not a complete list) none of the exterior body panels or interior trim will swap

the one front diff i took apart did not use a gasket, but a gray silicone(?) based RTV type gasket maker instead. same on the rear extension housing. good luck.

before you do any more work, compare the wire connectors on the trans. the 99 outback is most likely a phase 2 trans with a spin on external filter. (a few early 99s were actually phase 1 98s.) and i'm pretty sure the 99 ej22 auto trans was phase 2 as well, but i'm not 100% sure. but if the wire connectors match they should swap. if they do not match, then nothing you do will make it work. at least, no one that i know of, has been successful so far.

sounds like you found a winner. maybe the ECU will ''learn'' and the car will run / idle a little better. or did you mess with anything while the bad ecu was giving you headaches that might have affected the idle?? just a thought.

if you edit (go advanced) your post title to be more specific like, duty c and clutch pack replacement, once posted there will a list of similar threads at the bottom of the page. currently the list looks like this 95 Legacy transmission troubles pleiades1995 New Gen.: Legacy, Outback, Impreza, Forester, WRX, etc... 8 09-02-2008 09:55 AM 98 Chevy Blazer Transmission Troubles. jonfit04 Off Topic Discussions 13 06-25-2007 10:58 AM transmission troubles jeffast Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales... 4 11-28-2005 07:32 PM big troubles HELP! dawlfandave New Gen.: Legacy, Outback, Impreza, Forester, WRX, etc... 2 03-02-2004 07:54 PM

the cars built in 99 calendar year, anniversary year, came with sunroofs, wagons and sedans. some of these cars were 98MY some were 99MY. hth.

run the stock plug for your car. maybe a more expensive plug is better, but the stock plug is guaranteed to be good enough. i had to order the stock plug for my 95 lego at advance. they had a different plug in stock, ''just as good'', but i went for stock. with no regrets. buying ''better'' plugs is such a scam at the parts counter. kind of like at the movie theater, ''for 50 cents you get twice as much soda.'' as if you are buying the $4 soda for the value. i think, the only reason they don't use the same plug in the ej25d is due to the difficulty in changing them. the plug spec-ed for that engine lasts longer. but again, no reason to go fancier or more expensive.