johnceggleston

this ^ allen wrench inside the stud end, then turn the nut.

i would probably pull one from the other side and go to the dealer. or just take the pad to the dealer. or, swap in used calipers and new pads. are the rotors the same size?

this includes ALL legacy L or brighton. the GT is a 2.5L car and does not fall into this group. the difference in the speedo is exactly the same as the difference in the tire size. with stock tires about 5.7% or about 4 mph at 70. speedo will read 70, actual speed will be ~66. there is no easy way to correct the error. you would have to open the trans case. do not try it. it isn't worth it.

no internal damage. just whatever the flying parts may have caused. replace the missing pieces and any damaged or mutilates pieces, like the crank pulley and the crank sprocket. the keyway in the crank may be mangled, but it should go back together and run right if you line it up correctly and torque it to 137 ft. lb. also a good time to replace the timing belt and anything else needed inside the timing cover. when was the timing belt last done? this thing came apart because the bolt was too lose, not torque to spec. if you do not replace any mangled parts, except the crank, and if you do not torque it to spec, it MAY cause a repeat failure.

if you are only losing coolant, and not oil, you may be able to put off the repair by adding the subaru ''coolant conditioner'' to the radiator. it works amazingly well and has been known to stop the coolant leak. one bottle is recommended but if the leak is severe try 2. start the engine, add the conditioner and then go for a drive long enough to reach full operating temp to circulate the conditioner through out the system. get the stuff at the dealer, it is cheap, ~ $2.50 per bottle. and frankly i have not heard of coolant mixing with the oil, ever, as a common head gasket failure mode. based on my experience and reading, this has to be a typo. RIGHT? exhaust in the coolant yes, on phase 1 ej25s, but usually no coolant in the oil. coolant and oil to the exterior on early phase 2 ej25s, but usually no coolant in the oil. for 05+ i have no experience of course regardless of what happens most of the time, there is always a possibility of an odd duck gasket failure.

typically it indicates a lose or loosened crank pulley. which may or may not mean a slipped crank sprocket and / or timing belt. and an odd miss for no other good reason could be due to this, a slipped / jumped timing belt.

it is located under the dash on the driver side. it is easier to find if you remove the kick panel and then look up. but more important, why do you want to know. the TCU is not relevant to the trans swap. you do not need to mess with it and you absolutely do not want to mess with it unless there is a really good reason. it is not part of your problem.

i have never heard of any one doing this swap successfully. sell the trans you have and buy the one you need. if you cannot find one from a member here, look at http://www.car-part.com .

the rule of thumb is, if it was an OPTION for the car when it was sold new then the wiring is probably there. if it was not an option then the wiring is not there. the wiring was in both my 97 GT and my 98 outback. but not in my 95 lego L. you can probably feed it form the ''map light'' if you have one or the dome light if you don't.

i do not know about the manual trans. for the auto trans: the 99 GT trans will not work in your 98 GT. the 99 is a phase 2 trans, the wire harness and connectors are different because there are more sensors on the 99. compare the the trans ID numbers on the bell housing at the starter. if the first 6 letter / numbers are not the same it will not fit. the 98 GT is a TZ102Zxxxx, the 99 is different. your 98 GT can use any of the following auto trans (in preferred order): 96 - 98 GT, perfect match, any year. 96 - 98 outback, same trans, but the speedo gears are a little different. your speedo may be a little off. 96 - 97 LSi, same trans but i ASSUME the speedo will be off. there are not a lot of these around. in the late 90s the ej25 cars had a different final drive ratio than the ej22 cars. you CAN NOT use any auto trans from a 2.2L car UNLESS you swap in the matching rear diff. i would not even consider this unless the trans was almost free, or better. there are lots of 96 - 98 auto trans available that came from the ej25 cars. use one of them. good luck.

right?

i have never seen a door lock popped so i have no idea what damage, if any, it may cause. but by removing the second 10mm bolt and disconnecting the ''rod'' to the latch, you can have the whole assembly, handle and lock. long term you are going to happier if you get the matching ignition cylinder as well. or have the new lock keyed to your existing ignition key.

the build date used to be on a sticker on the B-column, like the tire pressure sticker. then they moved it. at one time is was on the bottom of the drivers door. look there.

he got it, but he didn't tell us which bolt he had over looked.

check the timing and try it with the coolant temp sensor unplugged.

yes the dealer is going to be expensive. but you only need one. how bad can it be. would you pay $5 to fix your $5000 subaru? it is probably only going to be $2 - $3. outrageous!!!!

i think, that nipple is actually on the water pump. it has to be since it is not on the t-stat housing / cover. a short 'ell' shaped hose connects it to a metal pipe that is bolted to the block and runs back and up to the heater hose. the other heater hose nipple is on the coolant crossover pipe under the intake manifold. both can rust. but neither is in the block. i don't know how hard it is to remove the lower one with the engine in the car. i never knew it was there until i did the head gaskets and by then the engine was already out.

this sounds like it was caused by ''over torquing''.

porc, you seem to have lost your touch. no pictures????? you should be fine. i lost one of those red tubes that fit on the spray nozzle of WD40 inside the cylinder of a 61 chevy V8 once. at least i think i lost in the cylinder. i never found it. but the engine ran great so i didn't worry. happy motoring.

205-70r 15 is the stock outback tire size 96 - 99. i don't think they will fit on a stock legacy L. unless you use outback struts.

the plugs on the ej25 SOHC are way easier than the ej25d. because of the single cam the plug tubes are angled up which makes it easier. the H6 has double cams and the plug tubes are absolutely horizontal, like the ej25D. and they are a be-itch. worse than the ej25 since there is less clearance to the frame. i'm pretty sure the outback limited has all the snacks that the H6 cars come with except the engine. for mostly town use i would go with the ej25, for mostly hiway i would go with the H6, i think. not sure why. EDIT: how's your house? was the car parked in your drive way?? got power? is the justy ok? good luck.

this. i put them on my 97 GT so they will fit. keep at it.

yes, this is a go for swap. use the ej22 y-pipe and then everything else you need from the GT ej25. using the late 98 ej22 has the benefit of matching all of the vac / evap plumbing. this eliminates any re-routing of vac or evap lines. Removal TIP: removing the intake manifold make it EASY to reach the torque converter bolts on the ej22 if you are pulling it from the car. this is not an issue on the manual trans engine removal or install.

the end links are usually loaded when in the air and on the ground. at some point during the transition from up to down, or vice verse, the bolt holes will line up with almost no load. finding that point makes the job much easier.

the 95 legacy will unlock all the doors when you unlock the driver door with the key. the 97 outbacks and GTs only unlock the driver door when you unlock with the key. i don't know about the 96 outbacks, but my guess is they are like the 97. do you have a separate lock / unlock button on the front doors? does it unlock all the doors when you operate it? if both are yes then they are working correctly.