johnceggleston

top gear, 7pm on the east coast. i watched it and i guess i don't know what a subaru legacy looks like cause i missed it. completely. bently, yes, saab, yes, but subaru no.

the starters are pretty hardy and not prone to failure. but some of the after market or remans are just crappy. so rather than spend a bunch of money on a crappy reman just get a good used. a local buy would be best in case you need to return it. but you might look at a cheaper one from some other part of the country. http://www.car-part.com sort by distance to see what is close and then by price to see what is cheap. the ''contacts'' in the solenoid getting old and scorched is a common issue and for $15 - $20 you can get the replacement parts and DIY. but a good used unit for $35??, maybe, is a good deal too.

try jumping 12 volts from the battery to the SMALL spade connector on the starter. if that does not spin it then either really bad contacts in the solenoid or a bad starter all together. if you need one get it used.

the last time i tried to buy a cam shaft the yard said it was $100, and it came with a head, no charge. 97 should have HLAs make sure you get the right stuff.

go slow, you should be ok. but don't you have all the fuses from the parts car?

yep, +1.

i'm pretty sure you can swap in a phase 2 ej25 SOHC engine 00 - 03/4 (forester 99). i KNOW the intake manifolds will swap in between the 99 - 00 ej22 and the 00 ej25. (not true for earlier years ej22s.) so a phase 2 ej25, 00 - 01, with the 99 ej22 intake manifold should work. the phase 2 ej25 02 - 03/4 should work, but you will need to swap in the je22 cam and crank sprockets.( you may need to do this with the 00 - 01 engines as well. i don't know.) but since the intakes will swap and since the long blocks are pretty dumb, no smart sensors, you should be able to swap in an ej25 as long as you use the original intake and probably the cam and crank sprockets. questions?

you are good, all rights, no wrongs. good work. enjoy.

what year ej22 ???????????

google ''miata tire size calculator'' and you should find a place to put in your size and then calculate a 15 inch size. but if i remember correctly, 195/60/15 .

something on rear of my 01 H6 squeaks, a lot when the car bounces. it is in the area of items 3, 5, 6, & 9 in the attached link. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_27/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_2/ is this the same part you are talking about? easy to replace? expensive? will marking the cam bolt position avoid having to reset the toe-in after the job? thanks.

the seats have elements for both the butt and the back and the switch has a hi and a low setting. so there are going to be at least 4 wires going to the seat, probably 5 or more. for the switch, i would try to eliminate the wires for the indicator light bulbs and concentrate on the seat elements first. my gues is that one position is going to connect 2 wires and the other position is going to connect all 4. the center position is off.

plugs and / or wires are the most common cause if misfires. the 1&2 combination suggests the coil due to the way it is designed. but the coils are pretty hardy. i think the igniter is a little more likely than the coil but i guess it could be either.

the rubber diaphragm under the cap extends as the fluid level drops. the fluid level drops as the brake pads wear and the caliper piston has to extend farther to do the job. so if the brake system does not leak, you can correct the ''brake'' light on usually by adding brake fluid. BUT BUT BUT when you replace the pads, and compress the caliper piston, the fluid MAY over flow the reservoir.

GENERALLY, if the option was offered on the car when it was new, then the wiring will be there. if it was not offered, then probably no wiring. i added heated seats to my 97 GT, the wiring was there under each seat, i had to dig for the pig tails under the carpet but they were there, and pigtails under the center console for the switches. what i did not have was a hot feed / fuse, under the dash. or if it was there i couldn't / didn't find it , so i ran a new feed tapped off the cigarette lighter. it was a short run under the console and i don't use the lighter for cigarettes, just my GPS. the pigtails for the switches are easy to find if they are there, so i would look there first. one is usually blue and one cream / ivory. if you have those then look for the connectors under the seats.

there is a known issue with a gasket / o-ring and cap on the fuel pump. i have not dealt with it so i'm not clear on the method of failure, but the result is that the pump runs but fuel is not delivered, it leaks back in to the tank. here is a link to a thread with some info. there are others. i saved this one because it has a part number in it for the o-ring. there is another one with a part number for the cap as well. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/43713-help-outback-died-morning-2.html

it does sound like he ''glued'' the plug back in and got the car running. and this time around a different issue cause the engine issues. no telling now how long the plug would have lasted as it was. question for all, when compression blows out a plug, does the plug slowly unscrew until it gets popped out or does it just explode out taking all the threads with it ?

i must be invisible. maybe i'll go rob a bank or sneak into Angelina Jolie's dressing room.

wasn't 95 the year that had the ABS pump problem? it would run after the car was turned off. sounded like a buzzing under the hood? find the fuse for the ABS pump and pull it. you will get a dash light, but if the noise stops, you have found it. re-insert fuse to confirm.

the piston style tensioners do not fail often.

the AT Temp light flashes at start up when there was an electrical fault on the LAST drive cycle. it will also flash with SOME obd2 trouble codes, but not all. just a few. drain and fill is considered safer, and it is easy, just like doing the engine oil. you should do it 3 times with driving around the block in between. the trans holds about 10 qts. and a drain it only produce about 3.5 - 4 qts.

look for the build date on the the sticker on the bottom of the driver door. they put them there for a while. i didn't think the id plate had the build date on it, but it may. but unless you are ordering pistons you don't need it. 97 is an interference engine and the timing belt interval is 60k miles. there is a 105k, california belt, you can use, but eve if it was used last time, were the idlers replaced??? the failure of any part the belt touches will cause valve damage $$$$. change it all now and don't worry about it for 60k miles. replace the timing belt, all the idlers, and the water pump. the 97 should have the old style 2 part tensioner, hydraulic piston and separate idler. the idler should be replaced the piston is probably good. but if it is leaking or not working properly , replace it. you can get good quality parts for a fair price on ebay from ''theimportexperts''. i would re-use the bolts that are on your car. and torque to spec. DO NOT over torque the bolts.

i'm a big fan of the 95 legacy and especially the 95 ej22. i would risk it as long as the repairs will put the car back on the road and the car is not rusted out or trashed inside. if you spend the $1500 and drive the car 15k miles that is an ok return on you investment, but if you drive it 30k miles, that is a great return. how many miles a year? and in my limited opinion, the 05 is not going to last as long or get the same mileage as the 95. the engine is not as durable and could have a head gasket problem down the road.

the 98 outback auto trans is a match for the 97 GT that is not a problem. assuming the replacement trans is in fact from a 98 outback with the trans ID # TZ102Z2DBA. the stub axles are held in by circlips. and will snap into place with a sharp blow. if the circlip is missing nothing will hold it in. if it has a circlip and is not staying in place then it has not been completely seated. as for the ''input shaft'', i ASSUME you are talking about the shaft that attaches to the TC and extends into the trans. if this seems too long, then the TC is not fully seated. there is a great write up with pics on how to seat the torqueconverter. search for ''torqueconverter'' posted by me. i think the original title is ''how to seat your torque converter by mnwolftrack''. or something close to that. let me know if you can't find it. the shafts on the TC can be tricky. but it should go back together ok. i'm really surprised you even noticed the difference in the shaft. __________________

to answer your question, MAYBE as the bolt loosened the pulley moved and ''wedged'' itself tight in between the bolt head and the key way. maybe, idk. but you need a new pulley and i would replace the key. and i would remove the sprocket and examine it and the rest of the key way. i know it is more work but at least then you will know it is all good. i would then put it back together with the sprocket and pullet lined up correctly and torque the crap out of it. as shown by the damage to your pulley, the key is not designed to hold the pulley (or the sprocket) in place, the key only lines up the pulley and sprocket. the bolt holds it in place. and the damage to the crank keyway, if any, is in the loosening direction, not the tightening direction. so the new key will do it's job as you torque it. since you will be torquing the crap out of it you might consider a new bolt.