johnceggleston

on the crank sprocket, count the teeth between the correct timing has mark and the 3 oclock (arrow if you have one ) position. then count back from the passenge cam ''arrow'' position and mark the correct timing position on the that cam. this will get it right unless you miss the exact tooth position of the arrow position. ps: the cam sprocket has twice as many teeth as the crank sprocket. i'm sure this is a dumb question, but is the passenger sprocket on backwards? the front face around the bolt head appears to be different? there appears to be a flange on the rear of the sprocket? does the alignment ''dowel'' / pin hole go all the way thru? is it even possible to mount the sprocket back side out? was the alignment pin missing? why isn't there bare metal at every tooth where the flange broke off? it was manufactured as all one piece, the flange would have to ''break'' at all of the teeth. dumb right?

virgin switch on top of steering column?

you were warned. good luck.

oops.

in addition to sticky calipers, some folks blame cheap china made rotors, cheap steel?, for warping. i do not know.

many rebuilders ship engines on pallets with minor blocking. they place a block at the lower trans stubs and bell housing. it may be beveled to match the angles involved. so the load is not all on the end of the stud, it is closer to the bell housing. the engine rests on the lower trans studs, and the oil pan. that's it. as a matter of fact, the ej25 has a flt spot on the oil pan so it seats well on the floor or pallet. this also prevent denting.

is your meter accurate?

not familiar with car / engine specification for your area, but in short it is a ton of work and some money to install a turbo in a non-turbo car. way easier and probably cheaper to just buy a good working turbo car, or a turbo car (in your year group 00 - 04?) that needs an engine.

actually there is a way to make that ej22 engine run in the 03, but it will always have one or two trouble codes. and some states will keep the car off the road if it has trouble codes or emissions issues. and for the cost of a good used ej25, not worth the trouble. http://www.car-part.com sort by zip code. but in short, you use the cam and crank sprockets off of the original engine, as well as the intake wiring harness, and you bolt the throttle body from the ej25 on to the ej22 intake. i do not remember what does not connect , but something does. you will not be doing her a favor if you do this odd ball swap. selling a car with trouble codes is difficult, even if you lie.

rotors. which could be caused by sticky calipers. i have it on my 97 GT. new rotors eliminated it, but over vtime it came back since i didn't fix the sticky caliper. i didn't know that was the cause. try some hard braking from speed with no hands, or only light hands on the steering wheel.

for the sake of discussion, lets say the the head gaskets are bad. what are your options. 1/ fix it now. ouch $$$ 2/ sell it as is. good luck. 3/ drive it until it quits and then decide. what if it never quits? these engines are incredibly though, resilient, and durable. all you have experienced could be temporary issues as a result of major engine work. once you have resolved the overheating issue, the others may not be a big deal. the smoke could be a one time burn off due to the rebuild. the plugs could be due to the burn off or they could have saved 10$ and re-used old plugs. it is not unusual for a newly swapped or newly repaired ej22 ot produce ''scary'' symptoms for the short term. but it is also not unusual for these symptoms / issues to go away over time. so my philosophy is to drive it. that's what you bought it for. worst case, the engine dies, it is not repairable and you swap in a good used $500 engine. (labor ~$700 ?? or zero if you do it.) sadly this will add to the cost of the car, but it not an impossible expense. and probably still cheaper than selling and starting overbuying a different vehicle. replace the t-stat, fill the cooling system properly, and drive it.

it could also be a battery with a bad cell????? maybe? the alt will generate as much power as is needed. if the battery is bad it may be over compensating. but testing the alt is a good idea.

head gasket failure could be due to the head bolt torque procedure. just because they bought good parts, does not mean they did it right. now that you have the cooling system working, how does it run? still smoking? does it have power? driving all right?

just a guess, the ej222 car , your car, has the canister in the rear. i'll bet none of the ej25 cars that year had the same. the wiring harness in the cars is different, and therefore the ECUs are different. but again, just a guess.

if this is true, then there is no way you have a spark issue. you must have missed something.

first guess, either the coil or the igniter. both operate in a front (cyl. 1 & 2) vs. rear (cyl. 3 & 4) manner. the coil has plug wires connected to it. the igniter is mounted on the fire wall just left (driver side) of the trans ''dog bone'' mount . if you end up buying parts to diagnose the problem, i would buy used. neither of these items fail every day so used is a safe bet. and WAY cheaper if you buy one you do not need. but i would check the plug wires first. they cause more mis-fire problems than all other causes combined. swap your wires from the front cylinders to the rear cylinders.

does the sound get louder or quieter when you turn, at speed, like an entrance ramp? try turning both directions. it may be a front wheel bearing.

in my mind, this confirms that the ej25 ecu does not match the wiring in the car.

the only thing i can think of is to try an ecu from an ej25 car with a rear canister, like a 98 outback or GT. given the expense and unknowns involved, do you know someone who would lend you an ECU.? i know this sounds dumb since you already have one spec-ed for that year/ car, but that's what i would try. EDIT: it may be a moot point. regardless of the code, have you noticed any difference in performance?

did you drive the car with the other ECU and no code? did the ECU swap trigger the code? or you got the car with the code and swapped the ECU to fix it ? ok, maybe this.... the ej22e you have installed is from a 98?????? and when it was swapped, (if you swapped it please disregard.) the intake manifold did not have the pipes for the front mounted charcoal canister. so they just discarded the canister altogether. i realize this is a stretch, but does the car have a canister under the right rear? i didn't think they did that until 98. so if none in the rear, and none in the front, then you have fou8nd the cause of the code, maybe.

it sounds like you have a 98 ECU. (if you have confirmed the ECU part number as 96, please ignore this post) the only change between 96 - 97 and 98 - 99 is the charcoal canister. it was moved from front to rear. a 98 outback will drive just fine on a 97 ECU, but you will get a whatever trouble code, purge valve flow issue....... the 98 wires from the ecu ''purge valve pin'' is routed to the rear , not the egine bay. so an ECU from the wrong ''year group'' will throw a ''phantom'' code. i learned this when the ECU in my 98 obw got wet. my ecu from a 97 GT drove the car, but i got the purge flow code. double check the part numbers of both the old and new ECUs. are they both for the 96?? http://opposedforces.com/parts or, is your cars buils date close to 6/95? it is possible a ''95 car'' will trow a code on a 96 ECU. generally i trust subarus to make all 95s the same, and to change to new parts in the 96 MY. but there are stories of ''cars on the cusp'' where some 95s got 96 parts, or vice versa. not common, but possible.

outback i hope?

ej22 head gasket do not tend to leak. i would look for another cause before i opened this engine up. of course it could be a head gasket, not unheard of, but i would look into it more. i'm not convinced you have accurate compression readings. and i'm not convinced it isn;t a timing issue. but i'm sitting in my den in VA, not touching your engine. good luck.

the trans are the same, easy swap, no issues. you can use any auto trans 00 - 03 from an outback. also, a GT will work as well, but the speedo will be slightly off. you cann NOT use an auto trans from a lego L, or brighton, or low end imprezas.

all 4 removed on a warm engine with WOT, wide open throttle.