johnceggleston

why aren't you using the forester ECU that matches the engine and the harness? in my ECU / harness experience, which is limited to 95 - 98, the ECU needs to match the harness. if they move a pin on the ECU the harness wiring needs to match that so there is correct info communication between the ecu and the device / sensor. it is possible you would havew some CELs if all you had swapped was the ECU, not the engine or harness. i don't KNOW that they made any changes between 00 and 01, but they could have.

from another forum.

i don't really know what codes are generated when the wrong cam sprocket is used, if any. someone should. i guess you tried connecting a code reader. if the code reader can connect to the ECU i would think it is communicating. just a guess.

if the problem you are having it a ''no start'' then you will have to swap the cam and crank sprockets. they changed the sprockets around 02 and they send different signals. and the sprockets / signals must match the ECU. and since you swapped the ecu it is looking for 02 cam and crank signals. no other issues that i have heard of. very smart to keep the harness and the ECU together.

it is not the rear diff. the part causing your problem is in the rump roast end of the trans. item #41 http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s11/type_1/manual_transmission/mt_transfer_and_extension/illustration_2/

the wire harness goes through the trans housing wall on the driver side about half way back. the harness has a plastic ''plug'' with some kind of seals with it. the seals are on the inside of the housing. you may not have to drop the trans to replace the seal, but you do have to remove the oil pan and valve body of the trans. this is not something i would ever attempt myself. i would, on the other hand, spray the exterior with some brake kleen and then try to squeeze some RTV or similar into the opening around the plug. it may not work, it may help, and i don't really see how it can hurt unless you squeeze a glob all the way into the inside. but i don't really know if you can reach it from under the car with the trans in place.

http://opposedforces.com/parts the is one viscous coupler in the manual trans. it is the power distribution point for the rear wheels. when it fails you have torque bind. but usually you have it when making slow tight turns in BOTH directions, not just one. a bad axle / CV joint can cause clicking, knocking, maybe even binding, in turns .

what size tires do you have? how old are your plugs and wires? air filter?

bumpers and grills usually match. different bumper means different grill. the GT grill may interchange with the outback without the bumper. if so then the outback bumper would swap with the GT without the grill. but the L, LSi and brighton bumpers will need the grill to swap. the support beam ... i'm not sure. for years i read that you you HAD TO replace it to swap the bumper cover. but recently i read that you do not, but only once did it see that. so i would plan on the support beam as well.

the switch for the parking brake is located under the center console on the passenger side. it is a simple switch, compressed is off and extended is on. you could try jumping it out so the hand brake lever does not turn on the brake light and see if you have any funny issues after. if no then replace it. but if you could swap in a known good used switch for a few $ that might be good too.

FYI: FW Enterprises LLC. Formerly: “MWE Axles”. Email: mwolf1303@juno.com http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...es-solved.html

did you use paypal? maybe they can help get some attention. i assume you are still in the same ''lifetime'' as when you bought it, how long have you had the rack?

the spark plug tube may have water in them, depending on how much water got up on the engine. sound from under the steering, is that on the driver side, left side, of the car?

re: starter, it could be a simple as replacing the solenoid contacts. pretty common problem, not hard to do and only costs ~$20. what does it do when you turn the key? have you tried to push start the car? of course if you push it down the street and it does not start you have to push it back.

used is better than reman at the parts stores. but a local rebuilder is best. http://www.car-part.com for used parts

turning the engine over by hand is so slow that there isn't really any speed difference front to rear. maybe if you did it for a long time the fluid would heat up and get ''grabbier''. so i would not worry about it. but I WOULD NOT try running the engine with the trans in gear, front wheels up and rear wheels down. unless you want to buy a new garage and spend some time in the emergency room. if you want to test it try lifting the rear wheels too.

trans-X is still a good possible solution for this trans. there is no real difference between slow to engage forward vs. reverse. i don't know if the synthetic fluid will make any difference, i just have no experience. but regardless, the easy fix is a $8 bottle of trans-x, try it. it isnt getting better by it self. your other possible solution is to have the parts yard replace it with another trans. they will likely do it but who pays the labor for R & R? how about this, try the trnas-x and if it works call the parts yard and complain. ask for a discount on the trans . they may say fine or they may say replace it. which would you prefer?

you can try putting grease back in it and wrapping it with saran wrap, temporarily. if it quiets down i would re-boot it . but chances are pretty good that it will not improve. once they start making noise they are pretty much short for this world, i think. just my guess.

the viscous coupler that acts as the center diff sending power to the rear wheels ''grabs'' more when there is a speed difference between the front and rear wheels. since you stopped almost immediately you probably didn't do any real damage. if you had driven it home you would have killed it. but there is no way to tell until you drive it. if you feel binding in tight turns on dry pavement then you have damaged the viscous coupling. if it drives fine in tight turns you are ok.

yes, but they are cheap, in all ways.

crank sensor = spark cam sensor = fuel

the 99 speedo is unique, a one year speedo, in the outback any way so i assume the legacy as well. but maybe not. there is a known issue with the 99 speedo, and a good ''how to'' for fixing it. search speedofix, or 99speedofix. as for the tach. i don't really know but i'd bet that any one from a leagcy or outback 95 - 99 would work, as long as the connector matches. EDIT: be careful when working with these things, the needles are very fragile. and once broken it is easier to throw it away and get another one than it is to get a replacement needle on and get it to read the correct speed.

i thought they move the tone ring to the axle in 00???

who did the alignment? fronts wearing or rear too? i had 3 alignments done on my 97 GT in 19 months at merchants tire and they were all wrong. ended up eating up the tires. and i made them pay back all the money i spent . i didn't however get them to replace the tires. they were old and came on the car when i bought it. but i should have. here's why they did it wrong: the software on the alignment computer told the tech that the camber was out on the front but in order to adjust the cam you had to buy after market cam bolts. (true for the rear not the front.) the tech didn't know any better. and he didn't look to see if there were cam bolts on the knuckle. i watched him do it the last time and showed him the adjustments. so if the guy who did yours is as useless as the guy who did mine, that could be your problem. although it was relly the fault of the software.

i was just in there and i don't remember anything very different from the 90s. the hand brake shoes might be in the way but there is no tone ring to work around. pound it out and wiggle them out from under the hub.