johnceggleston

there are several CELs that will cause a ''flashing'' AT temp light. the one i experienced during my swap was MAF related . i had connected it during the install but i had to go back in and left it undone. others are the TPS and ... i can't remember. i hve done 2 of these swaps and i always use the plastic intake plenum that came with the car, not the engine. always use everything that came with the car, just stick the ej22 in there in stead of the ej25.(this does not apply to the PS pump, alt, AC compressor or the flex plate.) HTH.

i would swap in the whole intake manifold with all the wiring from the engine you removed. you know how that was running before the HG were done. that way you will get the known good injectors, fuel rails, throttle position sensor, iac and all wiring etc.. that's where i would start. the flashing CEL on hills is the 2 cylinders mis-firing. no 4 cylinder engine will have any power when half of the cylinders are not firing. i would also swap the plug wires from the passenger side, cyl 1 & 3, to the driver side. see if that changes any thing. (this may be hard to do if the coil is off center, can't remember.) but before i unbolt anything else, check the timing. 3 bolts on one side and a rubber plug on the other. you may need a flash light and a mirror to see in the ''hole''. cylinders 1 & 3 share a fuel rail, and cams. it isn't coil related. that would cause trouble with either the front, 1 & 2, or the rear, 3 & 4.

nope, the sensor is different starting in 99/00 on the SOHC phase 2 engine.

for an auto trans car, this is how you lock the flex plate for crank pulley bolt tightening. two screw drivers, one from each side, on the bell housing tucked into the holes on the flex plate.

since the job was done recently chances just the pulley is loose, not the sprocket behind it. if the engine is running well, i would just torque it to 140 ft lbs and keep an eye on it in the future. the wobble in the pulley is a dead give away to a loose bolt. how loose was the bolt / pulley? if you remove the bolt you should be able to see the key way in the pulley and the crank shaft. (you may need a mirror.) if the key way for the crank and pulley are aligned you are golden. it they are a little of you are probably still good. but if they are way off the pulley is probably mucked up and i'd be tempted replace the pulley and recheck the timing and the crank sprocket. but if the timing or the sprocket were off very much the car would not run well.

so it sounds like getting a shop to reboot an axle is impossible. i would suggest then buying a MWE axle and taking it to your shop and having them install it. if they don't want to do that i would look for a subaru club member in your area who likes working on cars on the side. let them do it on a saturday or an evening.

the question you need to ask is .... "do you want to reboot my axle and possibly win all my business or would rather send me to your competitor?"

it will take a fairly long time for the ''split boot'' to cause trouble, unless you are driving in sand. BUT, if it is a subaru axle, green inner cup, rebooting and saving the axle is WAY, WAY, WAY, better than a replacement after market axle. if the axle wears too much, it will start to click at that point it is pretty close to done in. you really don't want to wait that long to reboot. but to repeat, a rebooted subaru axle is WAY better than an aftermarket replacement re-man axle. sooner is better than later, but it is not going to fail this week , or this month , probably.

besides, the damage was already done. time to located a used trans, http://www.car-part.com . sort by distance to see what is close, shipping will add $150 or more to the price.

or towed it with the front wheels up and the rear wheels down.?

on the off chance it has not been repaired yet, you could put in the FWD fuse and see if that eliminates the noise. making the noise under throttle only suggest that it should go away with the fuse in. same with carrier bearing in the center support of the drive shaft. i'm impressed he could identify it. it seems odd to me that a bearing that is lubed by the trans fluid pump would fail, but it happens.

last post here for napa part number. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/43713-help-outback-died-morning-2.html

the one in my 97 GT was failing and the car had no power and crappy mileage even before it threw a code. you can find them on EBAY for less than $20 delivered. they work fine. i don't know how long they last. mine is still good after 2 years. the hard part is keeping the bolt in the socket when trying to insert it into the bolt hole. i use a bit of duct tape wrapped over the flange of the blot head. and i also use duct tape to attach the socket to the extension. i also use a little dielectric grease on the bolt and the bottom of the sensor. it is easier to install with the air resonator box removed (96 - 99, ej25s) but you can do it with it in place. probably takes more time to remove the box than install the sensor.

i always assumed the lack of info in a listing was due to a lazy employee entering the data. the same with inaccurate info. good luck.

that makes sense. this one claims to be 95 impreza FWD in north hollywood for 300$. 1993 Transmission Subaru Impreza 4DR L/B $300 Prime Auto Parts USA-CA(North-Hollywood) Request_Quote 818-765-5448 this one in TX for $100: 1993 Transmission Subaru Impreza A-GRD, 1.8, ATOD, FWD, FLR 65,282 ASI9383 $100 Auto Star Recycling Center, Inc. USA-TX(Hearne) E-mail 1-979-279-6001 there are about 26 for $125 and under. and this one, the cheapest, for $75 in mass. if it is still available. 1993 Transmission Subaru Impreza2WD- 60K 60,000 AP90323 $75 Ollies I190 Used Auto Parts USA-MA(Phillipston) E-mail 1-800-559-5865

a qiuck glance at car-part.com, it seems like you can get one for 300 - 500$ most places and 500 - 700 any where. i had a trans shipped from SC tp VA for 150$. chances are pretty good that didstance has little to do with price. i would call a couple of yards in TX and PA to see what thet charge. if they are all pretty much the same i would then look for the cheapest i could find that i had confidence in. if shipping doubles with distance then you really should stay close to home. but you can get them for $100 in TX, PA and MN plus shipping. you other option is to buy a FWD car for cheap and scrap all of it except the trans. but this would take more money up front and take longer to get you money back. where are you located? is the ''cheao trans'' driven because you don'r have any money or you don't want to spend it on this car.? if you do the install your self you can be back on the road for less then 600$. $1200 if you pay labor. that may be more than you think the car is worth, but what other car can you buy for $1200.?? even if you scrap this one and get $300 for it, what can you buy for $1500? just a thought.

more awake this morning. if the 95 has EGR, auto trans, (or if the 97 does not, manual trans) i would install it as is and and see how it does. the egr will be there but the ECU will not be looking for it. so no big deal. i have never worked on an ej22 without egr so i don't know all that is different. i guess there could be a vac line that needs capping off or something. i don't think the OBD makes a difference, just my guess. the engine will still have all the needed sensors to run. i think the obd 2 is just more better computer and a means to report. right? so i would not swap the intake just for that. it is however much easier on an auto trans car to remove the flex plate to TC bolts with the intake off and out of the way. not absolutely necessary, but still easier. if you need the EGR and do not have it on the 95 you will have to do some work or live with a cel forever. swapping in the 97 intake with the EGR will do most of it but you will need to drill and tap the driver side head on the 95. not impossible, but i don't think i would try it in my drive way, maybe a machine shop. if you screwed it up you will be buying a head, $100?. but it may be a piece of cake for you. careful if you have to remove the EGR pipe from either the intake or the head. it is easy to round off the nut . there is a type of wrench for it which might be worth the price. EDIT: just in case i confused you. the 95 will bolt in and run just fine regardless of the EGR. but if you need EGR and don't have it, you will have to do a little more work, or find an engine that does have EGR or live with the CEL.

yes BUT..... the impreza may be obd1, not obd2 like the 97 lego. i don't know if it matters, but swapping the inyake will correct it if it does. and if the 97 is an auto trans it will probably have egr and need that on the replacement engine. if the other engine has it you are good. if the 97 does not have egr it really does not matter. you may have to plug a hole, but maybe not.

when you change the oil and filter and then check the level, do you run the engine before you check it or check it as soon as all the oil is in. if the filter is new and empty it may show more oil in the pan. as i understand the dip stick, there are marks for cold engine before you start it in the morning and marks for a hot engine when you pull into a gas station. or something like that. the owners manual should tell you the difference. let us know what you find out.

if you look on http://opposedforces.com/parts and look in the drive ''TRAIN'' section you will find the part number for the ring and pinion. it will also list the final drive ratio for the same. in the late 90s the 2.5L engine and usually indicated the 4.44 ratio for the auto trans. the ej22s had the 4.11. once they eliminated the ej22 it becomes a little more tricky. but tire size can be an indicator as well. larger tires on the outback have the 4.44 ratio. smaller tires on the legacy L and impreza had the have the 4.11 ratios. the lego GT is an odd ball, in the 90s ant way. it has the 4.44 ratio and tires in between the L and the outback. i know the 00 - 03 GT (and outback)has the 4.44 ratio, i do not the tire size but i assume it is in between . i do not know about the impreza or the RS in the 00s.

i doubt seriously it is the condition of the oil that causes the tick. it is more likely it is the volume of oil, or lack there of, that causes the lifter tick. low oil level will cause HLAs to tick. really low like 1.5 - 2 qts low. this is why i love the 95 2.2L engine. add oil and off you go, no worries. when the tick starts (around 2000 miles after the oil change you said) check the level and add a QT, maybe two. my money says the tick goes away. in my sons 95 this was a volume problem. my son's 95 did this for years . we had a lot of leaks and as soon as the level got low the engine would tick. i eventually corrected the problem and it quit happening. (it is amazing how much oil will leak out of a bad cam seal.) of course the mmo will not hurt the engine but i would not leave it in for 3000 miles. maybe only 1000. maybe add a pint when it starts to tick along with a pint or a qt of oil. then change it all at 3k. i have read that the best, safest , way to ''clean '' your engine is to change the oil every 1000 miles, or so. EDIT: perhaps loose screws on the backing plate of the oil pump causing lower than normal oil pressure is also a contributing factor.

if you do this you may release any refrigerant that is in the system. anf if the system is holding pressure then the o-rings are not leaking. so checking the pressure in the system first is not a bad idea. even if you use one of those refill cans that comes with a cheesy gauge. AC folks will fuss if you release that stuff into the atmosphere and also if you refill with out pulling a vacume but such is life. my 01 H6 came with a non-working AC last year (159k miles). i recharged it and got nothing. it turned out my compressor was bad. so i replaced that and recharged it again replacing 0-rings as i went. works great now.

maybe a neighbor kid could climb in for you. but ask the parent, not the child. i'm not familiar with the ''access hole'' but i still think a long stick should be able to flip the ''remote'' lever .

if the key turns but nothing happens the key cylinder is probably ok and you have a linkage problem. worst case, some part is busted but probably just came ''unsnapped''. you might try a broom stick or something similar to reach insdie the trunk and ''flip the lever''. there might even be a trunk release inside. some cars have them, but i guess that is just the really big ones that are used for kidnapping.