johnceggleston

it probably changed by then, not sure. but if you look for struts on subarupartsforyou.com or opposedforces.com/parts and the 93 uses the same part number as your year, then yes, it changed. if you are pulling the struts off of the 93, measure the top bolts and see if it is the same as yours.

the 90 top hats are slightly different. (90 - 91 i think) so you either have to swap the tops or mod the mounting holes slightly.

probably not the head gaskets. the ej22 does not suffer the same ills as the ej25. it could be the gaskets, but probably not. try burping it first.

imagine how much less work it would have been if you had swapped in the intake and sprockets while the engine was still out of the car, as suggested. we are not perfect, but we do get it roght every now and then. glad you got it running and glad to get conformations on the adjustments needed for the swap. happy motoring.

most auto parts stores will read the trouble codes for free. go by autozone or advance autoparts.

so if you swap in a AWD trans and want to run it in FWD only the easiest way to do it is to install the FRONT section of the drive shaft from the AWD car the trans came from. but leave the rear section of drive shaft off. with out the front section of drive shaft the ATF will run out through the output shaft. the seal located there actually is supposed to seal to the front most section of the drive shaft. i ASSUME all the ''bolt holes'' for mounting the AWD rear trans mount and cross member (different than the FWD) and the drive shaft carrier support bearing mounting bracket (the cross member at the mid point of the drive shaft), i assume all those bolt holes will be there. you may have to clean them up in order to use them. this is an educated guess based on the fact that it is cheaper for subaru to put all the bolt holes on all the chassis rather just the AWD holes on the AWD cars. but the deal breaker for the ''really cheap'' AWD trans may be the cost of the front section of the drive shaft. you have to have this and if it cost money it may over price the AWD trans. making it more than a local FWD trans.

it may work just fine, i don't really know. BUT if you swap the complete intake manifold, the crank sprocket and the cam sprocket (drivers side ) i KNOW it will work. to repeat: use the intake , crank sprocket and cam sprocket that came with the car and you will have NO issues.

you have to plug / cover the output shaft some how. with out the drive shaft the ATF will pill out on the ground. i understand what was said about the ''carrier'' bearing in the FWD rear cover and how it supports the what ever shaft / gear, but i'm not 100% on how that eliminates the chance of removing the rear output shaft and clutch basket / drum. based on the way it is designed, it seems to me the rear of the trans shaft is getting very little , if any, support from the transfer clutch drum and the rear output shaft / bearing. it reminds me a little of a long board sitting on 2 saw horses while you try and saw it in half in the middle. at some point there is going to be movement in the middle . because of where the trans shafts are supported there is going to be some, maybe lots of, slop or play in the clutch drums / baskets where they fit together. but i have very little experience inside a trans and i would hate for someone to try removing the rear shaft and end up ruining a trans and wasting money based on my in-experienced advice. i know the bearing on the rear output shaft is a engineered and tight support point and i guess since there are no lateral forces at play on the shaft at either end (although the drive shaft carrier bearing COULD allow for some, maybe, i guess)... i guess the clutch basket / drum could supply support for the trans shaft. it just seems an odd way to design something that you didn't want to slop around. an extra bearing or support point for either shaft would seem like much better design from an engineering point of view, i would think, maybe. but idk. what am i missing.?

shipping is going to be close to $200. walk-ins don't get ant where near the rate that repeat commercial customers do. there is also one in NC on CL, around boone or asheville maybe. but shipping is still going to be the same.

another possibility is the igniter. it feeds the ciol in halves as well. so if part of it were bad, and they can be, it could cause a 3-4 miss.

if you open the rear extension housing and remove the clutch drum and output shaft with bearing you will be left with a fairly simple hole to plug. my back ground is in bath remodling so i thought a type of plumbing pipe plug could be retro fitted. but it doesn't seem like it would take much. the other thing to consider is the FWD and AWD may have different rear mounts. i'm assume the mounting points are there for both but just be aware.

there always seem to be a ton subaru parts available in the bowie area. www.car-part.com .

my experience with 95 legos with wobbling crank pulleys, it will only get worse and then fail all together. as the bolt loosens and the key, key way, and sprocket wear, the timing starts ot change and can cause a mis fire. and eventually the engine will quit. not no internal engine damage so no worries there. so you need to re-do the timing (and probably the belt, idlers, and water pump depending on how old they are) and replace any worn parts on the crank, like the sprocket, key, bolt and pulley. a decent mechanic should be able to do it with the correct info, like what to look for, what to replace and how to put it back together correctly. NOT the ARROWS, NEVER the ARROWS. but the 3 -4 mis fire does make me suspect the coil. but i would have thought a dealer would have checked for that. the coil has 2 halves, the front half fires 1 & 2, and the rear fires 3 & 4. so a 3-4 mis fire could be a bad rear half of the coil. it may not be the coil but it could be. the symptoms fit. and if there were no other symptoms, that would be my first guess.

95 - 99 model........................stock size.................................diameter legacy L....................185/70/14 ..............................24.20 inches GT.............................205/55/16 ..............................24.88 inches outback ...................205/70/15 ...............................26.30 inches tire in question .........205/60/15 ...............................24.69 inches the GT and the legacy, L, Brighton, have the same exact under carriage except for the sway bar. the struts are the same. so if the GT tire will fit the lego then so will the 205/60/15. i have ''read'' that the impreza, some early years , had 13'' tires but i don't really know., i have also ''read'', and assume to be correct, that the undercarriage is the same as the lego for similar years. (93 - 99) but i guess it is possible that the early imprezas had some differences from the legos. but i don't think so. ps: until you go really wide, it is the diameter that limits tire size. the tire will start to rub on the strut spring perch. one a completely different subject. after i swapped an ej22 into my 97 GT i lifted with outback struts. then going for better fuel economy i added stock outback tires. (the GT A/T has the outback final drive ratio, 4.44) well this made the car a little more sluggish and it threw off my speedo by about 3.8%. so i swapped in slightly smaller tires, 3.8% smaller in fact. (215/55/16, still bigger than the stock GT tires.) it corrected the speedo and gave it a little more power. (not a lot but some.) i really like having an accurate speedo and i was truly surprised that the math that worked on paper actually worked out with the tires.

try here: http://www.car-part.com .

these things seem to come in waves. you don't hear about these problems for a whjile and then they are all over the place. this is my guess.

when you drain the trans oil pan you will only get about 3.5 qts out. if this is what you did then yes, it is way over filled.

ASSUMING the replacement engine is a 95 as well, let it run. it will take a little while for the HLAs to pump up. not to worry. it will quite down. they are great engines.

this is so vague, it sounds like a rip off. either you need more info or we do. what is wrong with your car? what is it doing? what are they going to repair? how much is it going to cost? help us help you.

the timing is off. the crank sprocket has slipped on the crank, or the belt has slipped on the sprocket. you need to remove the crank pulley and timing cover and re-set the timing belt. read up before you do it so you use the correct timing alignment marks. NOT the ARROWS, NEVER the ARROWS.

auto trans? try putting it in N.

no. you can use 99 - 03 auto trans from both the impreza and the legacy. low end leagcys, L & Brightons?, and imprezas have the 4.11 final drive ratio you need.(outbacks , GTs foresters and WRX DO NOT.) i don't know about turbos, if there are any in that year range. so avoid them or double check the FD ratio. probably should double check the ratios regardless, just to be sure. parts available at www.car-part.com , you will have to search each model and year separately.

before you go out and buy another trans, you need to spend a little time trying to figure out what is causing your problem. for instance, if the TCU is bad, replacing the trans will not fix the problem. and you may end up with the same problem and 1000$ poorer. have you tried reading the codes for the trans yet? replaced the fluid? tried dirving it while shifting manually? any CELs?

this sounds likely. if it was just the key not coming out it could be ''stuck''. but if you can turn it to start and back to off , but not to lock, then something is stopping it, not letting go further. and it is not the cut of the key or the pins in the key cylinder. at least that is my guess any way.

the 98 forester has a 4.44 final drive ratio. you can use any trans from a 96 - 98 2.5L, outback, GT, LSi or forester. if you use a GT or LSi your speedo may be off a little. you can find good parts at www.car-part.com. you will have to search each year and model separately. sort by distance to see what is close to home first and then by price just to see if there is a deal somewhare. shipping will cost about $150 so add that to any far away trans price. note, just so you know: a 95 - 99 legacy / impreza (2.2L) trans will work but you will need to swap in the matching rear diff as well. and this will change your power curve / fuel economy.