johnceggleston

+1 ^ what he said. i don't know where Nipomo is, but unless it is in the JDM market you are stuck with the above. if over seas, there may be other options.

and some teflon lock lube. amazing stuff. key tip for the future, drill a hole in the key where your thumb goes on the ''other'' key. this way they are different.

i have been studying up on the pin outs for the TCU and i found an apparent error in the FSM. (i have pdf copies of the FSM for each year which i can't / don't know how to up load. ) the 95 and the 97 are the same for the most part, both show pin 11 on connector B56 as VSS2 . but the 97 has has a few more pins identified at the bottom of the second page. these pin are for the ''data link signal'' (subaru select monitor) and ''AT diagnosis signal''. so they obviously added something, great. but here is the problem, the AT diagnosis signal is assigned to pin 11 on connector B56, just like the VSS2. anyone have any idea what is correct?? i have not checked other years yet. thanks, john

installing a used trans is going to be WAY cheaper than a rebuild. but if you use a trans shop, they may increase the cost of the of the used trans and the install so it is only 20% - 25% cheaper than the rebuild. they want you to choose a rebuild. a used trans will cost less than $500 and the install at an independent shop, may add another $500. a rebuild at a trans shop will cost 2500$ plus. parts source, http://www.car-part.com sort by distance first.

the original post had great pics with the how to. you might look in the repair manual section here. i think some pics were lost during a server episode, but maybe not. i feel like i have seen a couple recently. an exploded parts views can be had at http://opposedforces.com/parts you would be looking for the transfer clutch which is in the transfer case on the rear of the trans. good luck. also, you could just locate a replacement transfer case / clutch and swap it out. but the reapair is an option. one drum is bolted to the trans shaft, if it is worn it is hard / impractical? to replace (i don't remember which one wears) and the parts swap will not work as a simple solution. EDIT: i found these pics , but no detail on the wear on the drum/s. just a guess from the pics, but the wear must be on the trans drum, not the one pictured. if when you open it up, you might consider replacing the duty c solenoid, pictured, to avoid going in again. it is a pretty common fail point in these at high mileage. but if you have more time than money and enjoy working on/ learning about stuff, it could wait.

the torque converter in the 2.5 trans is larger in diameter, and therefore the flex plate is also larger in diameter. i know this because i failed to change the flex plate on my first ej22 swap and i had to pull the engine back out to replace it. the 2.5 TC also holds more fluid, because it is larger, so the 2.5 trans uses more fluid than the 2.2 trans. about a pint i think. there are lots of ways to solve the vac line issues, any one that works is fine. what is the p0106 code for?

the transfer clutch drum gets notches worn in it over time and the plates hang up, i think. pretty sure that's it. there is good info here on the repair using a dremel type tool to smooth out the grooves. hopefully some can direct you to the thread with the info. i have not had a lot of success finding it even though i remember reading ti when posted. sounds like a nice $500 car, congrats.

the subaru auto trans dip sticks are really hard to read. and i'm concerned that you have too little fluid now. check the fluid level in the morning before you start the engine just to see if you are in the ball park. if not add the right amount. the difference between the low and high lines is only about 1 pint. after you get the level right when cold with the engine off then check it hot, engine running.

do you have a blinking AT Temp light at start up? the auto trans has a ''limp mode'' where it will only run in 3rd gear. if it looses the brain or the electronics? it allows you to limp home. could this be your situation?

gg, were you able to resolve this? i have to know, are they different or the same?

it should be listed on the top radiator support bar under the hood. but basically you need 2 cans of r134.

you can use ATF to clean some of that, or seafoam, or MMO, but the safest way to clean your engine is 1000 mile oil changes. that way you don't have to worry if you added too much ''cleaner'' or if it will hold up on the hiway. i did 2 oil changes with mmo but i only ran it 1000 miles and then did it again. 2 of those and then on to 1000 mile oil changes for a bit . then 3k for life.

but you can get a new one on ebay for less than $25.

yes, that is true for the top end of the cable. the bottom is the different.

correction by ''ccrinc'', in mid-98 on the dohc engine they moved the thrust bearing. thanks emily, i hat posting bad info.

i left the e-clip off on the bottom last year, and i have experienced no problems. heat works great. i worry that it is on when it is not supposed to be, but a few minutes of AC always cools off the vents and then i'm not worried any more.

and when they went to the phase 2 SOHC engine in 99/00 they move the thrust bearing to the #5 position from the #3 position. EDIT: correction from below by ''ccrinc'', in mid-98 on the dohc engine. thanks emily, i hat posting bad info.

i challenge you to provide that information. where does subaru say that? maybe all OTHER car makers say that, but where does subaru say it? show me. you torque according to the FSM procedure, no more , no less.

yes, you should be able to bolt them on and not rub or cause any damage as long as they are all within 1/4 inch in circumference. the speedo will show about 2% slower than actual. example, speedo says 70, actual speed = 71.4 mph. the 15 inch tire that fits legacy, same size, is 195/60/15. BUT, stock outbacks are 205/70/15, and they will rub. so double check. to run these you will need to install outback struts and springs. easy swap. stock GT tires are 205/55/16, they will fit as well no problem.

you can remove the rear section of thedrive shaft, but for the cost of the solenoid you can repair it yur self.

you probably forgot to plug in the speed sensor connetor.

it may be a challenge in your part of the country, but i would look for an ej25 engine or short block with a busted timing belt. you can use 96 - 99. and with some care, 00 - 04, but these have a higher chance of bad rod bearings. get a short block, put on your heads and go. the ej22 crank will not work, the stroke is too short.

here in the US subarus pull full size SUVs back on the road all the time. the size of the ditch may be a limiting factor making the story ''unbelievable''. but pulling a ''stuck'' car back on the road is a no brainer. when / where can we read this story??

no, it is the pin above that, next to the rivet. it sticks through the barrell/ housing side wall and ends flush. with the key cylinder turned slightly, enough to ''unlock'' it, you can press the pin in and the key cylinder will release and slide out. it will not press in unless the cylinder is turned and unlocked.

his is a ej18 with a ej22 intake.