johnceggleston

if you get the same pics i got, the second one shows the pin. https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=subaru+ignition+lock+cylinder&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1150&bih=485&pdl=300&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=rzbjT6ulJ4Km8gSGwJWHCA

firewall side. it is hard to see, but it should be there, for 95-99, not sure about later years. try a mirror? i searched google images for ''subaru ignition lock cylinder''. one shows the pin , it is 180 degrees away fomr the word start.

maf?

they were / are in the earlier years , call the dealer. so they are locked tight and you cannot pull them out more or release them from the buckle? or they are retracted in tight and will nor extend from the pillar? there is a child seat feature where once they are fully extended, they will retract and lock, not re-extending until they have retracted completely.

the abs system will be fine, but your 14'' wheels will not fit.

no, i think a little trans-x will fix it right up. then you can sell it on fleabay.

i have swapped an ej22 into a 97 GT and a 98 obw. the GT was worse than the outback. both of those cars have the 4.44 final drive ratio, but the GT has smaller tires than the outback. larger than the legacy, but smaller than the outback. this makes it ''quicker'' off the line and sportier. but at 75 mph on the hiway there just isn't a whole lot of umph left when passing. you can punch it so it down shifts but then you are in higher RPMs. i have since put on outback struts and larger tires and ti runs much better. i went to outback tires bot that threw the speed o off so i am now running in between tires. larger then legacy and GT but smaller than outback. the speedo is happy, i'm happy and the car has good acceleration and power. the 98 outback with the ej22 is fine. it isn't a sports car, but it runs fine , goes fast and does the job. most drivers who have done this swap say you cannot tell the difference. i always thought that an ej22 with a manual trans would be a perfect match. they offered this in 96 from the factory, but not since. but i don't own / drive manual trans cars. oh well. in the 90s, most of the legacys were offered in the european and asian markets with the ej18. in the US the legacy was only offered with the ej22. i don't think the same can be said for the outbacks but i don't really know. i do know there are a lot of ej20s in asian cars and we never saw those in legacys so if you are into ""POWER"" find and rebuild an ej25 or swap in a turbo engine. but if you are into going to work, going to the store, picking your kids up, and going on vacation, swap in an ej22. you will never regret it. i haven't.

wrong belt? did you count the ribs? is the belt new? the alt is all the way down, not up?

accessing programming mode in my 01 outback is tricky. it took me several trys to get it but i finally did. i followed the cars101 instructions. i don't remember the details, but it is complicated. i do remember learning , if you screw up, you have to wait before you try again. so i started trying it every time i got in the car. i finally got it. my system has ''lost'' the remote programming a couple of times, i think after the battery was disconnected for an extended period. i don't remember this happening in my 97 obw. good luck.

it depends on the year. the phase 2 ej22 will swap into a ej25 car but only for its year group, 00 - 04. you may have to swap the cam and crank sprockets, depending on year. the intakes will swap between the phase 2 ej22 and the phase 2 ej25, but the ej22 phase 2 intake will not swap onto the phase 1 ej22. i have never heard of anyone swapping an ej22 into a later ej25 car, i don't know if it will work. the phase 1 ej22 will swap into the 95 - 99 phase 1 ej25 cars, no problem. not real problems, a few things to look out for.

are you talking about the crank pulley bolt? use the starter bump method. put a breaker bar on the bolt and brace it against the car frame at the battery. then bump the starter. presto change-o the bolt is lose. pulling the pulley off of the crank shaft is a different matter. it should slide off by hand. but i may need some slight persuasion or maybe a puller. careful not to crack your timing covers.

your other alternatives are to rebuild yours. any idea what is causing your problem? or to swap in an ej22 which is a much more reliable engine and will probably cost less.???

all idlers and the ware pump. plus ant seals that are leaking. actually since it is a non-interference engine (dual port heads = '95 non-interference) you don't HAVE to do any thing else. but if you don't do it now you will right back here next year. do everything and you will be done for 60k miles. chances are pretty good that there is something else broken, like an idler for instance. but as you take it apart you will see / find the bad stuff.

time for a complete timing kit. as long as you are under the car taking pics, take one of , or at least look at, the exhaust y-pipe where it bolts on to the head. if it is dual port you are safe. if it is single port more research is needed. or pull the valve cover and take a pic of the lash adjusters. HLAs = non interference.

fuel pressure regulator???

ok, new engine it is. sounds like you know to look for leaks and replace the oil separator plate on the rear of the block. can't do it after the engine is in. the 95 is a great engine and the only difference from yours is the EGR you mentioned and the dual exhaust ports on the heads and the needed matching y-pipe. some yards cut the pipes when they pull the engines. if you can cut / unbolt the 2 bolts between the y-pipe and the cats (or cut the front pipe of the cats, they don't /can't sell those) you can probably pull the engine with the y-pipe attached. but i don't know how that will affect setting the engine down in your car / truck.

this is a symptom of torque bind. when shifting to park, try pausing in N for a second or two and see if it lessens or eliminates the ''rocking''. the rear wheels and the front wheeels are ''locked'' together and when you turn into your home, driveway, parking space, the rear wheels travel a different distance. and since they are locked to the front there is tension in the drive train. (the duty c and the transfer clutch is supposed to allow some slipping between the front and rear. ) once you shift into park the rear wheels are released, and you can feel the car ''relax'' and rock as the tension is released. driving with the fuse in should eliminate this situation. did a FWD light up on the dash when the fuse was in? in tight slow circles, binding is usually OBVIOUS. my 95 had slight binding for years due mostly to dirty fluid and no service. but once the duty c failed it became Obvious. code 24 is the duty c. a flashing AT Temp light means there was an electrical issue the last time the car was driven. and there is some history od intermittent duty c failure. not sure of the causes or conditions. at one point i suspected heat as a contributing factor. you might try a fluid drain and fill. do it a couple of times with driving in between. i don't really see how this will help an electrical problem but maybe if the duty c is sticking.... idk. there is also a binding situation that is caused by a bad TCU. a circuit blows on the board. what is weird is no binding. that's a head scratcher.

that sounds right, but i have read of some one modifying the bolt holes in the strut tower to accept the outback strut tops. sounds scary to me. im guessing 90 - 91/2? are the years that are different. any one know for sure?

the ez30, 3.0L, is supposed to be good but they are only 10 years old. but their track record is good. but that is a big jump from the ej22. mine gets crappy mileage around town. the ej25, not as much. but what i don't understand is why subaru isn't building an economy car with the ej22. all the US car makers are into it. 5 years ago there were only 3 hybrid type econmy cars on the market, today there are over 30. of course there are also a lot of gas guzzlers as well. but what could subaru do with the ej22 and a lighter, smaller chassis and more efficient systems? they are bound to have improved some stuff in the last 10 years. could they get it to rate over 30 mpg?? anyway i think i will stick with the ej22. ALL of subarus new cars are bigger and heavier. if tuned correctly they get good mileage, but it seems to me it is pretty easy for them to not get good mileage. then you have a big, heavy car that gets crappy 20 - 22 mileage. how about this, a AWD subaru wit h a ej18 / ej22 FWD in the front and an electric motor in the back, RWD. when you need AWD turn both on. on the hiway use one and around town use the other. when you need more power, use both. it would probably be too expensive.

this swap is very common, and for most years there are no issues to deal with. you can also do this on your impreaza. but the early legacys? or maybe impreazas??, i can't remember which, had a different top hat, strut top mounting plate. the bolt positions are slightly different. 2 solutions, 1/ modify the bolt holes on the strut tower, i don't like this one. 2/ swap the top hats from the early legacy struts on to the outback struts. presto change-o they now will bolt right in. i like this one, but it does require a spring compressor. for later leagcys and impreazs the top hats are the same so the swap is easier, no spring compressor required. (unless you buy new struts without springs.)

the exhaust y-pipe id going to be different so buy that when you buy the engine. as for the EGR, it is easier to keep the intake that comes with the new engine egr and all. the harness will plug in no problem. but i don't think it will cause any trouble. there will just be some egr stuff that does not report to the computer. or does. no matter. easier than plugging the head, in my opinion. i would be interested to know how your ej22 is burning a qt. of oil every 300 miles. it must be laying down a smoke screen every time you start the car. are you sure it isn't leaking oil? they are famous for that. burning oil isn't discussed here much because it is pretty rare, really rare actually. but anything is possible. i bet your engine is black with oil underneath. lots of info on oil leaks if you need it. my son's 95 lego started leaking oil so fast he had to add oil every time he drove it. turned out a cam seal popped out of the housing. it leaked when running, but was only noticeable when he parked it and what was left in the head dribbled down on to the ground.

the heat shield is in the way. it is a long piece about 18 inches wide with 6 - 8 - 10 small bolts which may be rusted. once this is out of the way there are 4 bolts with nuts at each end of the rear section of the drive shaft. the rear section is a straight pipe with a u-joint at each end. easy peasy. the front section is held in place by 2 large bolts through the cross member up into the chassis. this holds the carrier bearing which is the middle support for the entire shaft. remove these 2 bolts and then just pull the drive shaft to the rear away form the trans. done. (but now fluid can pour out of the trans when the engine is running. the rear seal of the trans output shaft ''seals'' to the front piece of the drive shaft. i'm not sure why it is designed this way, but it is.perhaps to keep the splined output shaft from rusting.) if you are removing the whole thing you may be able to do it with the rear section attached to the front section by disconnecting the rear end and then doing the middle. but with the exhaust in the way i would do it in sections. re-install the heat shield. this is not a hard job.

dan, you have nothing to lose by trying the FWD fuse. it may lessen the effects of the bad parts what ever they may be. lots of time the fuse will eliminate issues in the drive line. relaxed u-joints or whatever may act differently than those under pressure / tension. you can remove the rear section of the drive shaft, but that will not really help unless the u-joint in question happens to be on it. there is one other and the carrier bearing and you can't remove them without ATF pouring out on to the ground. (in an emergency you could maybe use a rubber glove and a lot of duct tape to ''cap off'' the end of the trans so you could get home , i have not tried it.)

i assume the ej25 has a bad bottom end not just bent valves. if it is just valves buy a used good head and put it back together. but for the bottom end, you COULD swap in 96 - 99 ej25 block and use your current heads and intake. but given the history of all ej25s 96 - 04 it may be difficult to find a known good one. good luck.

yes, put the fuse in. if you have no ''binding'' in slow tight turns, chances are tha duty c is not bad. if you put the fuse in and the FWD light comes on (i assume the SVX has one) then the duty c is ok. or at least working at that time . so test drive the car in tight slow circles, then put the fuse in and then do it again. see if there are any changes. i had a 'phantom' trans code on my 97 GT the other day. it lasted a few days and then cleared. the code was triggered by a ''spirited'' drive and was probably valid. but it was not an ongoing problem unless i continued to drive like that. how long have you had the flashing power light.? ever had a duty c problem before? did you read both the stored codes and the current codes? a how to i stole from GD To Check the TCU codes - if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times on startup then you have stored TCU codes. There is a 6 pin black connector above the gas pedal and two grounding wires wrapped into the harness directly above that. Insert one grounding pin into the center pin on the black connector (blue with yellow trace typically), then follow this process: 1: Turn ignition on, apply brake, and place gear selector in 1. Turn ignition off. 2: Turn ignition on. 3: Move selector to 2. 4: Move selector to 3. 5: Move selector to D. 6: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 7: Read morse codes flashes on the AT Temp light. 24 will indicate a bad duty-c. These are "stored" history codes from previous drive cycles. 8: Turn ignition off, then back on. 9: Move selector to 3. 10: Move selector to 2. 11: Move selector to 1. 12: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 13: Read codes again. Codes given here are current faults active in the TCU on the current drive cycle.