johnceggleston

i don't really know how bad oil in the spark plug tubes can be? but water in the tubes will do what you have described. of course the ''suddeness'' is probably not oil related. timing is a good starting place. you said it was a ej22 in a 97 outback. what year ej22?? this will help determine if bent valves are a possibility.

i paid $575 in 06 for a tranny r&r in a lego. but i agree, change the fluid in your current trans and sell the other for $150+ . use the money to help pay for the move. you will come out ahead 2 ways.

the problem with re-torquing the heads is there isn't a head bolt torque spec in ft lbs. there is a head bolt torque ''procedure''and the last 2 steps are ''tighten 90 degrees''.

maybe the air intake under the wipers for the HVAC system. i'm not sure how it works, but if it is full of leaves, maybe..... or the windshield seal is bad. or the sunroof drain.

lots of things are possible, especially with a salvage yard engine. but an after market t-stat can be a terrible thing.

i suspect most of your buyers are going to offer less than $1000, i would. very few sellers expect to get the advertized price. but you could always say first one with $1k cash wins. or ''i have an offer of over $1k, if you want to top that i'll consider it.'' not really fair, but everyone understands that cash talks. you can help set up this situation by not agreeing to sell it to any one over the phone or in an email. talk all you want, but if they want the car they will show up with cash. you could also say, i can't meet today, i'm busy untill day after tomorrow. this will allow you time to hear from lots of interested folks, not just the fastest few. or if you include OBO in your ad, just say, my best offer is over $1k.

front up and rear down, or all 4 up. no other choices. well maybe one, add an aux. electric trans fluid pump. but i'm not even sure they have them or if they would work on this trans. check with an RV supply company. then you could do all 4 down.

ok, a subaru t-stat it is.

it sounds like you made a mistake or got hold of a bad gasket. head gaskets on theses engines don't usually leak coolant into the oil. that is rare. what torque sequence did you use for the head bolts did you use ''copper spray'' or install dry?

ok, 98 OBW w/ ej22 swap. this car came with a ej25 w/ DOHC, known for head gasket issues. how does it run? what is it doing wrong?

dumb question showing my ignorance. i thought ej18s and ej22s used the same heads?

or move the drivers seat farther forward to move the center of gravity. does an ej18 really weigh 50 lbs more than an ea81?

that is exactly what the fuse is for, when you need FWD to avoid damage to the drive train. of course there is a really, really, small possibility that the duty c will fail during the dyno test and suddenly you will have locked 4WD. or just remove the rear section of drive shaft for the test. then re-install. use the hand brake? jack stands?

the id plate under the hood, on the driver side strut tower. it will tell you what engine came in the car. not necessarily what engine you had removed, it could have already been changed. another question i have is this: is it an impreza OBS, OutBack Sport, or is it an outback sedan, SUS, sport utility sedan.??? the sus came with a 2.5L engine. if you are calling it one thing when it is really another we can 't help. but regardless of which car , which engine, what is wrong ? how is it running? what are the symptoms? there aren't many running issues that are engine specific. head gaskets maybe?

search frankenmotor, there was a good thread just in the last few months.

but where is the fluid going? as the pads wear, the caliper piston travels farther causing the fliud level to go down. so if the fluid is low the pads may be worn out as well. or there is a leak?

the 95 ej22 is a non interference engine, so the only thing you HAVE to do is the oil separator plate on the back of the block behind the flex plate or flywheel. fair tax mentioned this. buy the new plate / cover w/ screws , (subaru ~$35) and the ultra gray sealant (local $5). every thing else can be done after the install. BUT if you have the money and some time, oil seals on the front, cam, crank, oil pump (subaru ~$30) and ALL new timing components, belt, all idlers, and water pump (ebay ~$130). NKG plugs (<$10 local) and wires (subaru ~$40) are a good idea. valve cover gaskets if needed, (~$28 local). intake manifold gaskets - probably need exhaust manifold gaskets - need pcv - ? alt and AC belts oil 5 qt. filter coolant 1.5 gal. tips: read up on the timing belt alignment marks and re-seating the torque convert - search torqueconverter don't dent the trans oil pan flex plate to torque converter bolts

i just did one on a 00 legacy. it is directly under the throttle cables where they connect to the throttle body (00 - 04). this one was easier than than 97 - 99. the air box is different and there is more room to get your hand in. the intake may be taller too, not sure. the zip tie holding the wire to the hose is re-useable if you can get you fingers on the tab to release it. or just cut it. mine did try to cross thread, so be careful.

if you did , what would you have left to attract good looking women and new / old subarus???

there was none, it was a joke. the event that caused the AT Temp light to flash was a one time occurance. (unless i re-create the situation accelerating at WOT to 50 mph.) but since the light went away on its own, i feel like there was a magical fix. but really , i just got lucky.

i would like to thank nipper for the ''magical fix'' he must have given me secretly. my light quit flashing. thinking back before the light first started to flash i seem to remember accelerating hard, wide open and not letting up un till it approached red line. actually about 1500 rpms below red line. and in my reading the code 16 is addressing a ''torque control signal cut'' . i found this to be about a fuel cut signal when shifting at WOT. this fuel cut is to make the shift a little smoother. and mine apparently failed to send the ''cut signal'' during my spirited drive causing a TCU code. and after several drive cycles it reset itself. thank goodness. but it makes now wonder if there is a link in between my harder than normal 1-2 shift and this ''cut signal'' . the code 16 id specifically for shifts at WOT, but what about regular every day shifts. would this ''cut signal failure cause a hard 1-2 shift? is there even a fuel cut programed in for regular every day shifts? any way my car is back to its normal self and i'm glad. thanks for reading. happy motoring

while checking the shift linkage, re-check the new drive shaft install. if there was some undetected damage from the failure it could have caused something to come loose. or matbe the trans mount as mentioned.

there is a chance, but only a slim one that there is no other damage. the good news is that you probably only have bent valves on one head, maybe. you will likely find that the tooth idler sprocket is also bad. this is usually the one that fails and then causes the passenger side sprocket to collapse. not a big deal since you will replace ALL the idler sprockets AS WELL AS the tensioner and the water pump. this is the only way you can know for sure that you are good for 100k miles. you certainly don't want another idler to fail in 10k miles. and you can't really expect these idler bearing to last 200k+ miles. and certainly not 300k. (good parts to be had on ebay from ''theimportexperts''.) so depending on where you take it and what the labor rate is you are looking at $1500 - 2500$, maybe more, give or take, depending on labor. (what does a six pack of bud cost where you are ?) engine comes out heads come off both heads go to machine shop to be checked ''mill'' both heads if needed for flatness. if this is all you need this is just a head gasket job. replace bent valves, probably 4 - 8, maybe more. reassemble the engine and re-install. if you can buy known good heads (and have them shipped in) you may be able to save a little on the job. heads from an engine that threw a rod would be a pretty good bet. do you know a good subaru shop in hiwaii?? but to answer your question, bent valves at the worst, no piston damage unless something much worse happened. which i have never heard of . if you have the time, you can replace the busted parts, install a new belt and do a compression / leak down test. or just drive it and see. but if this is your only car and you need it yesterday, just get it fixed.

these engines can be used but they do not have the needed EGR system. you will have to drill a hole in the driver side head and tap threads in ti for the EGR pipe and then use your original intake manifold. or live with a CEL for the life of the car. and you still do not know the condition of the head gaskets. all ej25 engines tend to have head gasket issues. they could last the life of the car or go in 30k miles?? so for the money, in my opinion, you would be better off with different solution. rebuild yours or swap in an ej22. by the way, you said your engine blew, what blew????

below from the end wrench .pdf pages 14 - 15. http://endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EAT.pdf what does all this mean ? it sounds like the TCU and the ECU are not talking correctly???