johnceggleston

yes.

true, but ej engines very very very rarely have head gaskets that fail this way. so you almost never see white smoke from a head gasket failure in a subaru. i know, never say never.

did you just buy it? or had a while and it quit starting / running? if it has been sitting, the tick is a HLA, hydraulic lash adjuster, the needs to pump up, give it some time. if it has been sitting the white smoke may burn off, burn out of the exhaust. this could easily be dripping engine oil burning off of the exhaust. please tell me you just got this car and finally got it running. these things are much less worrisome if that is the case. even if you have had this car a while, i am ever hopeful since it is an ej22.

i used a ratchet wrench and i only got one click per turn. it was a real ***************. one side was easier than the other, not because there was more room, but be cause the access was easier on which ever arm i was using. i'm left handed and i think the passenger side was easier. it would be interesting to know if the driver side was easier for righties. i stood on a bucket, allowed better access. i think my wrenching hand went down by the fire wall while my adjusting, aligning , holding the wrench on hand went down beside the valve cover. i was using my fingers only to move the wrench. i had to keep a finger on the bolt head to get the ratchet to click back. but something about the driver side makes me think i had both hands squeezed down the same hole together. my situation was made all the worse by all the oil that had leaked form the valve covers. i kept thinking from below would be easier, but i think your wrench would need a ''dog leg'' shape. and even then i don't know. i laughed, grumbled and cried when i read your thread about 20 minute spark plugs. i think i spent 6 hrs on spark plugs and valve cover gaskets over two days. so maybe 3 hrs for a real mechanic. i go real slow on NEW stuff. i don't want to make a costly mistake. i didn't know how the wire connector for the coils worked, snapped on. so i removed the coils on the first side with the wires still on. and i tend to remove all the stuff that is in my way. good luck.

if you don't ''need'' the handle, just the lock, you only need to remove the rear bolt, closest to the door edge and the spring clip. that will get the lock set / cylinder free. of course the other bolt is easy to get to, but the handle can be a little tricky . on the re-install, the bolt is REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, hard to get back in. the tape trick on the socket may help. i hope it does. but i have been driving a 95 lego for 10 years, over 130k miles, with only the front bolt holding the handle in and only the spring clip holding the lock in. works great. good luck.

mine hits E around 200 miles and usually has 5- 6 gallons left. of course city is different than hiway. i just re-set my trip meter every time i fill up so i know. i know both how far i have gone and i know how many mpg i usually get. i have noticed the gauge reads more correctly if i do not stop the car. in other words, on long trips, i fill up before starting and drive for 200 plus miles the gauge more accurately reflects the fuel in the tank. once i stop for lunch or a bathroom, or at least by the time i complete my 300 mile trip to grandma's house, it goes back to its old ways, showing less than what is actually in the tank. i can't figure this one out. trip meter is your friend, that and the ''low fuel light''. (when mine comes on it takes about 14 gallons to fill up.)

this is just an observation, but it has been my experience that parts prices from online subaru dealers are 20% less than retail at your local dealer; which is great. but then they charge 10% for shipping. so in the end i save 10% off of retail. my local dealer will give me his ''wholesale'' price if i just ask. actually i have to tell them that i ''buy, repair and sell'' them. so i try to buy locally if it can. my dealer isn't next door, but not 10 miles away either. saving 10% is not a whole lot when spending $20 - $30 but if spending 200$, and/or over the life of the car, it adds up. as you all know, shipping and handling is the mystery, hidden, cost of online shopping. buying aftermarket parts online is another story all together. some parts do not need to be suabru quality and can be had for 50% - 70% off retail prices or more. great! and there are of course some parts manufacturers who make and sell quality parts for less than subaru. but there are lots of aftermarket parts that are cheaper because they are ''cheaper'' parts. they don't fit as well, work as well or last as well, but they will bolt on and get you back on the road. the trick is knowing which parts can be after market and which need to be oem. and then finding that part for a good price. even if that price is only 10% of of retail. i heard a story about electronic component parts costs for some circuit board. you can buy a $0.05 part , a $0.50 part, a $5.00 part, or maybe even a $50.00 part. which one do you want controlling the airplane your family is flying on. just a thought.

i think advance auto charges $28 for ball joints, i think.

will it not go into 1st or will the dash indicator not show it is in 1st.?? how does it drive? how does it shift? if you move the shifter in to 1, what does the car do?

causes range from a bad wire connection to bad speedo gears in the trans and of course, a bad sensor. EDIT: my first step might be to remove the instrument panel and check to make sure the wires are connected and that the mounting screws are tight on the back of the speedo. if the screws are loose that is likely the problem. if they are tight, read on. the VSS #2, speed sensor, is located on the passenger side of the auto trans above the front diff dip stick. you can access it form the engine compartment. there is a 2 wire harness that drops down from all the other wires on the rear of the engine. it plugs into the top of the sensor, which threads into the trans. you should be able to remove the sensor with a box end wrench, i want to say 7/8 inch but that may be too small. or you may be able to use a deep well socket?. there is no easy test. and it is a is little odd that it has not caused a CEL. but that happens sometimes. i have tested speed sensors by attaching the ''tab'' on the bottom to a piece of rubber vac tubing and then an electric drill. attach a volt meter to the connectors and SLOWLY run the drill (roughly speaking, 800 RMPs = 60 mph i don't want to think what a 3400 rpm drill could do to a sensor.) the needle should jump up several times for each rotation. this probably doesn't make much sense, sorry. the sensor it driven by the speedo gears in the front diff. for every rotation is sends several ? pulses to the speedo. these pulses are simple electrical pulse and can be measured with a volt meter. so you want to rotate the speed sensor drive ''tab'' and see if the volt meter moves. just a guess, but at some point ''too slow'' probably isn't going to send a pulse?? if the needle does not jump, the sensor is bad . another test, inset a flat screw driver in to the ''slot'' on the trans that drives the sensor. jack up the front passenger side wheel and rotate it by hand. if screwdriver turns then the speedo gears are there and working. (you could even do this with the sensor in place and the volt meter attached to the wire connector. probably easier than the electric drill.) i would probably go with a used part. someone here should have one. ask here or post a WTB ad in the classifieds. i don't know if you can buy one on www.car-part.com ? but there should be plenty of them around. if you go to a yard to get one, try to get part of the wiring harness as well. it may make it easier to connect a volt meter. what did i forget?

generally if the cruise does not work the problem is not the speedo, it is the speed sensor. if the speed sensor is bad it will also cause FWD only, no AWD (no power to the rear wheels.) auto or manual? does any one know if a 97 SVX has a cable driven speedo? i assume not but thought i'd ask to be sure. legacy changesd in 95, impreza in 96?

replace thew knock sensor, a generic one from your local parts store will do. or get one cheaper online. it will kill your power and fuel economy. the other two will probably not be noticeable as far as how the car runs.

you are in a no lose situation. if it is the cats, you are not going to put 11 year old o2 sensors back into new cats. that is just dumb. so replace the o2 sensors now. if it fixes the problem , great. you don't have to spend $$$ on cats. if it does not fix the problem ..... replace the cats and re-use the almost new o2 sensors. i think it is the front o2 that you want to replace but i'm not sure. little help, please.

the cats on these cars rarely fail . what code did you get? p0420 is usually corrected by a new subaru o2 sensor. don't spend any money until you have finished your research.

i have no idea. usually a speedo problem is the speed sensor. but 99s have a ''bad'' ground. what is your speedo doing?

what kind of help? go through the pictures first. that is for a SOHC but the double is the same , just 2 more cams to line up. the articles are great, read up. timing belt pictures > TIMING BELT ARTICLES

replacing the entire instrument cluster is pretty easy, a few screws and several electrical connections. the speedo only is a little more involved but not impossible. but if you get one from a yard you are likely going to get the entire cluster.

not cable driven. the vss, speed sensor, is located on the trans and sends a signal , by wire , to the speedo. the speedo shows the sped. the circuit board takes the signal, reduces it by a factor of 4, i think, and sends it to the ECU. which uses it in several ways. somewhere in that process the info is sent to the odo. did the car come this way? i guess there is a chance that some one tried ''adjusting'' the odo and messed it up, jambed it so it will not rotate. but you can get a used instrument cluster and install it yourself. not hard. stick with one from the same type of car as yours and one that looks the same. others may work, but they may not be accurate even though they look the same. someone here will probably have one. i may have one, i'll have to look. is yours an outback? how many miles on your car / odo? if i have onme i can set the miles to match your car. or at least get it within a few thousand miles.

i don't ever remember hearing about a non working odo whit the speedo working. i think you need to replace it. i guess it could maybe be a bad connection.

on cable driven speedos the VSS is located in the speedo. just replace it. adjusting the odo to your current mileage is pretty easy. not that it matters much on a 20 year old car. or if you care.

thank you , thank you , i'll be here all week.

what is this part used for? if no one stocks it , you don't need to replace it. unless it rolled across the floor and went down the sewer drain. i don't know manual trans so i may be wrong. is it not the same as the axle roll pin?

if you are talking about the tabs on the crank sprocket, like the ones in the pic below, the answer is most likely yes. frankly i'm surprised it runs at all. replace the crank sprocket. the sprocket has 6 tabs on it and it triggers the spark. if you lost one of the ''spark'' tabs then that cylinder will not fire. i don't know what the other 2 tabs are for. but you can be sure they are needed. correct crank timing alignment in pic below. you can just see the hash mark / line at the top of the sprocket at the rear. cams use the hash marks. not the arrows, never the arrows.

in the 90s the EGR was located on the intake manifold, driver side, and had a pipe that extended down to the rear of the head which tapped into the exhaust port on the head. where ever it is , it connect the intake to the exhaust. duh!!! edit: there is no EGR valve in that pic. what makes you think you have one? also in the 95 - 98 cars, the ej22s with auto trans had EGR and the manual trans did not. and EGR is all about emissions. so the auto cars needed it ot meet specs and the manual cars did not need it. so the bottom line is if the 05 baja needed it to meet emissions specs, it would have it. but it dose not look to me like it does. 96 - 99 ej25 have EGR. 00-01 ej25 do not have ER. 02-04 ????????.

you may be able to put your hand on the steering pump and tell if that is the source of the noise. a stethoscope would pin point it.