johnceggleston

i have edited the above to avoid possible mistakes. see below in red. some of the driver side valves are open when the cam is in the correct position. IF you need to rotate the crank 180* to get to the correct timing position, you want ALL of the valves closed before you do it.

it all depends on what is where. first you need to KNOW what the correct timing marks are for the crank and the cams. do not guess, '' that must be it''. using the wrong marks could cause damage. when the crank timing mark is up at 12 oclock OR down at 6 oclock, the pistons are out of the way and you can turn the SOHC any way you want. so look at the crank and turn it the shortest distance (forward or backward) to the 12 or 6 position. (this should be LESS than 90 degrees.) once the crank / pistons are out of the way you can position the cams correctly. one of the cams, drivers side i think, will be ''loaded'', under pressure, when in the correct position, and MAY want to snap closed. this is ok, as long as the pistons are clear. it only really needs to be correct when you install the belt and it can be positioned with out snapping closed if you are careful. once the cams are in the correct positions, rotate the driver side cam so it snaps closed to the at rest position. now, you can turn the crank any way you want with out worry. turn it to the 12 oclock position. now that the crank is in the correct position you can reposition the driver side cam to hang the belt. HTH

did you try http://www.car-part.com ? put in your zip.

as fair tax said, the 95 impreza auto has a 4.11 ratio, and outback and gt 5 speeds from 96 - 98 will match. but depending on how you plan on using the car, a 3.9 will be more economical. in which case a 5 speed from a 2.2L car (legacy or impreeza) 95 - 99 or a 1.8 L impreza 93 - 97. of course, if you want the car to be sportier or ''quicker off the line'' the 4.11 would help do that.

any pics of pistons before and after?

yes, as long as it has the ABS if needed.

typically, these gasket leak internally and turning on the heat will not change the over heat condition. the over heat is due to exhaust gas in the cooling system and not enough coolant, or not enough coolant circulating. an external leak would also eventually lead to low coolant and over heating. but with both gasket leaks, low coolant will eventually lead to no coolant circulating and no heat from the heater, usually. imho, if turning on the heat reduces the overheat then there is a ''cooling issue'', not a gasket issue, but i'm no expert. the coolant on these engine moves through the heater core all the time, turning on the heat only cools it more, not circulate it more. back flush the cooling system? replace the rad? i don't know but pulling heads should be last on the list. was the rad flushed when the gaskets were done? was any type of ''stop leak'' ever added to this engine? stop leak in the cooling system that is / was not flushed out when the system was drained will / can / could clog up stuff. the cooling system should be flushed when drained before the ''stop leak'' has time to ''dry and glog'' any open passages used for cooling.

i picked it up trough observation, with auto trans numbers. i needed a trans for my 95 lego and i started studying the trans numbers. in those day the thinking was that you could use a trans from another year, but you would need the TCU as well. and maybe the rear diff to be sure it would work. over time it became apparent what would fit and what would not. but the real break through came when i realized that ALL 96 - 98 ej25 auto trans had a 2 in the 7th position (right after the second 'Z'.) this became the ''ratio'' indicator. and then some one stated that the ''last 2 '' position indicate the model. BA is outback, this is true for both legos and impreza 96 - 99. usually AA is lego, and at times CA is GT. so it just takes a little time to start listing all the different trans numbers available. the other telling info is / was, ALL 90s AWD auto trans start with TZ102Zxxxx , FWD are TA102Axxx. so if the first 6 are the trans, and the last 2 are the model, it only leaves 2 to be different. pos # 7 (in the 90s) was engine / diff indicator, ej25 = 4.44 ratio. and the 8th pos. indicates the progression, outbacks go TZ102Z2ABA = 96, ...Z2CBA = 97, Z2DBA = 98. (imprezas use a number there i think.) (in truth, the last 2 are probably NOT model indicators, but speedo gear indicators. the outback, GT and Legacy of the 90s have different speedo gears due to the different tire size combinations and maybe ratios? but the outbacks all are BA and they all (autos) have the 4.44 ratio and 205/70/15.) i have not studied the 5 speeds as much, i never found a pattern to the ratio 7th pos. but i'm not a 5 speed guy and didn't really have a need to know. and when i last looked i didn't have opposedforces to use. and now it matters less since there are so many ways and folks to confirm ''will this trans match?''. my statement posted above that BA = outback trans is just an educated guess. my guess is if you list all the trans code numbers for the 90s 5 speeds from opposedforces, not from the ''trans list'' that is out there, (it has errors) or any gen for that matter, you will see a pattern. it is just too confusing for a corporation to assign numbers at random. but who knows, anything is possible.

i have a similar problem wirth my 01. i have checked the ''fuses / relays'' in the fuse box under the hood and they are not the problem. next i should check inside fuses, if any. BUT i suspect the ''automatic'' HVAC control unit in the dash OR, MORE LIKELY, the after market radio the previous owner installed. it is amazing how many radio installs screw up something else. for those not familiar with the ''automatic'' hvac control, you dial in the temp you want and the system turns on heat, fan or AC as needed to maintain the temp chosen. new to me but not to owners of ''new cars''. my 01 H6 is my ''newest'' car. keep us informed hopefully yours is an easy fix.

this is a legacy trans and it has a 3.9 ratio. your car has the ej22 engine. this is an outback trans, not a legacy trans. this car has / had the ej25 engine (unless it was a 96, then it had the ej22) and it has the 4.11 ratio.

sorry for any confusion i may have contributed to the this thread. i have edited my post above to show the ONE exception to the rule. thanks to fairtax for seeing through the fog of confusion. exception, the 96 ej22 manual trans outback had the 4.11 ratio. this it the only time suabru offeer the ej22 with an outback. the 95 was just s trim level, a look, for the lagacy, not really an outback with raised roof, taller struts, and larger tires. look your car up on opposedforces.com/parts and look for your ring and pinion under the train section. you have a 3.9 ratio. (except for the 96 outback manual trans.) 2.5L cars w/ manual trans are different. they have 4.11 ratio, 96 - 99.

95 - 99 ej22 manual trans are all 3.9 ratio. EDIT: EXCEPTION: the 96 manual trans outback came with the ej22 engine not the ej25 engine. so it ended up with the ''legacy'' ej22 engine but the outback ej25 trans = 4.11 ratio.

look on http://opposedforces.com/parts probably in the wiring diagrams in the US it is located above the hood release, on the dash - sort of, below the air vent and mirror adjust?, on the edge right next to the door. there is a small hinged cover.

head bolt washers ? 12 wouldn't be enough would it, 16 bolts, right? are they metal or fiber or plastic?

it could be the gaskets but assume it isn't. as fair tax said use a ''subaru'' t-stat and then fill and burp correctly. i think you will be pleasantly surprised. assuming he didn't make a mistake during the install, torque sequence, clean head surface or what ever. but idling fine and over heating when driving sounds like a cooling issue, not a head gasket issue, to me any way. the 90s 2.5 L engines would leak internally and would often idle and drive around town fine, but over heat after 20 - 30 minutes on the hiway. this is / was especially true when the gasket leak was new. but overheating around town would have to be a pretty severe gasket leak / problem, i think. good luck.

usually the there is a difference between the AT / MT rear sections, at least on the lego models. but i don't know if the rear lego shaft it the same as the rear impreza shaft. you can search what you are looking for on http://www.car-part.com, and see what matching shafts they return.

. i'm unclear on the question, but here's a good part of what i know. 90 - 92 legacys as a group have a set of FD ratios. i can never get them right so i don't quote them. but the i think the 5 speed and the auto are the same. turbos are different. 93 - 94 the autos have 3.9 and the 5 speeds have 4.11. don't know about turbos. 95 - 99, ej22 legacys (and imprezas, 93 - 99, ej22s and ej18s) autos 4.11, 5 spds 3.9 96 - 99, ej25 cars auyos 4.44 , 5 spds 4.11 in the 2000s the FD ratios pretty much followed the late 90s. all models after 99 have the 2.5L engine (except the 00 impreza) but the less fancy models, L, Brighton? (i don't know imprezas) have the 4.11 auto and 3.9 5spd FD. the higher end models, Outback, GT, whatever, all have 4.44 auto and 4.11 5spd. foresters have always been 2.5 and they match the outbacks and GTs. this info is for FD ratio compatibility, NOT trans compatibility. the rule for trans compatibility is very, very, very similar EXCEPT there is a phase 1 / phase 2 change around 99 - 00. you cannot swap in a trans of a different phase. any questions?

your car has a final drive of 3.9. you can use any 5 speed trans from ANY 2.2L car, 95 - 99 legacy, or impreza. (probably 93 - 94 impreza as well.) BUT NOT outback, GT or LSi. look on www.car-part.com ,put in your zip and sort by distance. shipping cost me $150. you will have to search each year and model separately. good luck.

i thought we were talking about a 98 legacy GT. he has a 95 impreza. my mistake.

read you owners manual, 95 - 99 legacy, foresters, outbacks, and GTs have a 60L fuel tank.

no offense to any one, but if you had the new part why not just install it? the way you did it you did the work twice. i could see installing the repaired part if you were in the middle of no where and had NO replacement part. but why repair the part and install it only to replace it. learning experience? test a theory? prove them wrong?

in 00 they went to a 16.9 gal tank, 64L, in the lego/ outback line.

in general mpg will increase around this time of year as they change over to the summer gas blend. but the GT ej22 will not get as good mpg as the obw ej22. the reason being is the tire size. the GT has a 1.42 inch smaller diameter than the outback but the same final drive ratio. the the 4.44 final drive ratio with the outback tires is roughly the same relationship as the 4.11 ratio and the legacy L tires. the GT has a different set up. so maybe that is part of the difference. are the tires stock? 205/55/16. larger tires will increase your mileage but may throw off the speedo / odo making it difficult to get an accurate reading. but in general, if you drive the car 100 GPS miles and only show 97 on the odo, then there is a 3% error, that would be about 0.72 miles per gal. clock the odo against the gps on a hiway trip to see what your error is. i put outback tires (and struts) on my ej22 GT and now my odo error is 3.8%.

this is why i love the 95 ej22 engine. it will take a lot of abuse. you will not really know any thing until you remove the timing cover. but chances are excellent that new seals, new oil pump o-ring and reseal will fix it. my son's 95 would leave a baseball size oil spot on the ground EVERY night. a cam seal had popped out of the head. it was cockeyed. i did the reseal and timing belt all is good. the oil saturation will shorten the life of the belt, but i don't think it will destroy the belt immediately. so you should definitely replace it, but these belts will go way more than the 60k miles. and usually it isn't a belt failure that causes a timing belt ''event'' usually it is the pulleys. i don't thinl i have ever heard of a belt failure due to oil saturation. but since your plan is to not drive the car, a good idea by the way, until you repair it this is a non-issue. i would also replace the PCV during the repair. they can cause a higher than normal pressure in side the crank case which MAY contribute to seal popping out, maybe. plus they are cheap. good luck.

is this true? i thought the HP was more than the ej22 but less than the stock ej25?