johnceggleston

it depends on a couple of things. a 99 what? the 99 obw or gt the answer is no, it will not swap. they are phase 2 autop trans and the eletronics are different. 99 lego L , maybe, but it may be phase 2 as well, and it is for sure a different final drive ratio. so even if the electronics work, you would need the matching rear diff to make it work. so my best advice, find a different donor trans. you can use ANY auto trans 96 - 98 from an outback, forester, GT, or LSi. in that order, the speedo will be off slightly with the GT or LSi due to different size tires. none or the other ATs are plug and play.

this thread is more than 7 years old, i doubt andyjo is going to respond. having said that it is highly likely it is a 95 - 99 auto trans, lego or impreza does not matter, they are the same. what are you working on? and kudos for using the search function.

the towing capacit5y of your car is 2000 lb, but only with electric brakes on the treailer. a limit5 of 1000 lb with out electric brakes. a trans cooler will never hurt. the need will depend on how often and what conditions. but please note, they are NOT expensive.

if you have a key fob, lock and unlock it. or find the ''push button'' under the dash and push it. but if you want, you can disconnect the battery and strart over. this works for all system 90 - 04. disconnect the battery, turn the key to start and let go. reconnect the battery. turn the key to off. good to go.

while on the subject of brakes, how loose or tight should the pads be in the calipers? i know too tight will make it harder to stop, but what about too loose? i did my brakes on my 98 obw, 160k, A/T, last fall. i don't drive it much , waiting on a teen to turn 16. i drove it the other day and the front pads are dragging. when i test it by driving in a tight left hand circle the dragging noise almost stopped. when i straighten back up it returned. loose sloppy pads, or what? i have had pads drag due to caliper slide pins, and i have swapped out pads and rotors for years with little or no problems. i have never wondered about pads being too loose. but this i find a bit unusual. i guess i should try a right hand circle as well. and start driving it every day. thanks.

ok. polishing the plastic headlight housing will fix the ''dim'' part of the problem. you can buy a kit for $25 and spend less than an hour to make them like new. easy and effective. as for the melting, go to the parts store and buy a generic ''head light connector'' replacement . mine cost about $5 at advance auto. i spliced it in and had no more problems. if you are worried about getting the right plug, take a picture with you, or just cut out the connector you have and take that with you. this one is not rocket surgery.

harness upgrade? what are you trying to do?

it's not leaking, do not replace it. they usually last the life of the car. do not temp fate, it is NOT leaking. possible outcomes if you replace it, it cannot get any better, it isn't going to put clean oil back into your engine. it could stay the same, still not leak. or it could get worse, it could start to leak. best to leave it alone. good luck.

in VA, your car will not pass annual safety inspection with a torn rack bellows. probably other states as well. also, not decent shop is going to pass up the chance to ''add on'' a rack bellows when doing any type of service or inspection. my point being, it has not been torn long. just replace it. if you are careful, and count the number of turns it takes to remove the tie rod end, you can replace the bellows without having to do an alignment.

the door, front passengere door will bolt on and close and latch. but the wiring is different. the 99 has a separate ''door lock'' button, the 96 does not. the 96 activates all the lkocks when ever the manual lock is operated. the 99 operates all the locks ONLY when the ''door lock'' button is operatewd. if the 99 door is manually locked, (at the door latch pull) only the passenger side front door will lock. but if you are willing ot swap the harness in the door, i bet the hardware would work the same, but this is just a guess.

what year car? check your ground wires on top of the engine. always on is really weird, check all of the connectors. turn the switch to normal AWD, and start and stop the engine with out driving it. then restart, any change? i agree with dash. it sound like it is wired wrong. remove the switch and wire it back like normal. find the fault, and fix it. then re-do the switch.

when you have the speedo and tach out of the car check the screws on the back side of the circuit board. some are actual ground points and loose screws can lose the circuit.

this is the transfer clutch for the power to the rear wheels. the larger corrugated drum contains clutch dics, which i think are mis-named. they should be called ''rings''. one ring has grooves cut on the outside, the next ring has grooves cut on the inside of the ring. when the rings are compressed together, they ''clutch'' to each other, and turn together as a single unit. when not compressed, or when loose, they do not clutch, and the ''driven'' clutch drum does not turn. the busted piece you see is the smaller clutch drum, or at least part of it. it too is corrugated to match the inside of the clutch rings. one drum is connected to the trans main shaft, and one is connected to the rear output shaft of the trans, which powers the rear wheels. the bustred clutch drum in the pic probably should be connected to the trans half of the setup. i can't tell if the pic is of the trans side , or the rear extension side. this is not a common failure, but it is not unheard of either.

i did this on a wreck donor car. i cut all the cross members up front around the grill / rad area. unbolted the engine cross member the rear trans mount, undid the struts, and engine cables / hoses, and then i just slid the whole thing forward. i left the chassis sitting there on spare wheels / tires. eventually i put the wheels, struts, and cross member back so i could move the car around.

plug wires are the most common cause of mis-fire codes. since your codes seem to be 3 & 4, it is highly likely that it is either the coil or the igniter. and since you have replaced the coil, i suggest you replace the igniter.

i have never read or heard a comment one way or the other. i do not think it matters.

unlike the 95 - 99 cars, the 00 - 04 cars only have one temp sensor. but it has 2 wire runs, one to the gauge, the other to the ECU. i guess it is possible that the sensor is bad.

this sounds like it is in ''limp mode''. the trans defaults to 3rd gear to you can limp home. when you turn the key to run (not to start yet) the power light should come on with all the other dash lights as a test. once you start the engine, the power light should go off. if it blinks 16 times and then goes off, that means you had an electrical problem in tghe trans the last time you drove the car. this sounds like a wiring problem, or maybe a TCU, trans computer, problem. on left hand drive cars in the usa, the trans computer is located under the dash,(right side i think) held in by two bolts, and is a little smaller then a paperback book.

is this an H6 ez30 or the ej25? on the 01+ H6, the AC will cut out any time the car (gauge) overheats. it is designed to reduce the load on the overheating engine, i cannot figure out the rad cap removal when the gauge is red line. this is beyond me. rad caps fail way more often than t-stats, factory t-stats at least. i would address the over heating first. ej25 or ez30???????????????

have you done any recent work under the hood? i had a very wierd AT Temp light problem, it was either blinking or always on while driving. i can't remember which. it did NOT blink at start up. does yours?

did you ever see or hear any sparks during the process? did you disconnect the battery? does the engine turn over when you turn the key? cranks but no start? or no crank? does the crank pulley wobble when you try to start the car? and what shredded your belts?

which belt/s did you change? alt? AC? timing? recheck the battery connections. what all did you disconnect to change the belt.? try this, disconnect the battery put the key in the ignition turn the key to start and let go connect the battery. see if that helps.

not a ton, none from the trans, only what is in the lines and radiator. do one line at a time, not both. opening both will allow air in one and fluid out the other. if you are really concerned, open both at once and let the system drip / drain into a catch basin. then come back later and do the work. this way you know EXACTLY how much youy lose.

or busted front axle. the ''park lock'' mechanism locks the main shaft at the rear of trans, this ''locks the front diff pinion shaft. but with an ''open'' front diff, and if you have a busted axle, the busted axle will be locked and the good axle can turn. this allows the wheel to roll. test: hand brake on jack up one front wheel turn it by hand. this should not happen if both axles are good. i'm pretty sure this info is correct, but i'm having a senior moment. so feel free to correct me if i'm wrong. especially if my conclusion is right, but my logic or mechanics are wrong.

this is beginning to sound like a lose wire problem. an intermittent loose wore problem. so i would follow the wiring under the dash back from the ''brake pedal switch'' and see where is goes. or, the next time it will not shift, wiggle the harness under the dash and see what happens. the ''wiggling'' during the replacement of the switch may have been the fix, not the switch itself. i had the same problem and could not solve it. so i ''tied down'' the ''lock '' mechanism in the console. by the time the rubber band rotted off the lock solenoid, my problem never came back. never did figure it out. but my horn would not work when the shifter did not work. i couldn't tell about the cruise control. but they are both in the column, and may be powered the same way, not sure.