johnceggleston

expect your engine to run fine and make more noise than usual. the noise should go away with time. i THINK, i have read something about locating the ''check valves'' in the adjuster towards the oil galley in the rocker assembly. this simply, or maybe necessarily, makes it easier for the oil to get to the adjuster. with used engines that have been sitting it can take hours? for the clatter to go away. i would expect recently cleaned and primed adjuster to take minutes at the most. but worst case, it makes noise while you drive it for a day or two. lots of engines have done this with no ill effects.

if you only need 1, or maybe 2, and you are in a hurry, and the local store has them get new. but used is a good solution. these are not a common fail item. they do need servicing every 150k (?) miles or so, but it's not like every owner is buying these for every car that has them. this is a ''once in the life of the car'' issue. i would ask someone here if they have a couple, for cheap. buy more than you think you need just in case. you can probably get a complete set for $20 ? when i had this problem, i just replaced the whole rocker assembly (with 125k miles), but i already had it on hand. 40k later and still no problems. i would take apart the other side and put all bad HLAs on the same side, maybe the same cylinder (not sure about this.). that way if it does not pump up, you will only have to take one side apart in the future to make repairs . good luck.

there are a couple of possibilities here: 1/ you had a bad duty c (flashing AT Temp light) and torque bind. this means all the mechanical parts were in place and working before the repair and only the duty c was bad. 2/ you had a bad duty c (flashing AT Temp light) and NO binding, which means that at least some of the mechanical parts were not working properly. in either case, it does not seem as though the repairs were done correctly. either the wrong parts, or not enough parts or an error in the process, or what ever. it is hard to say since we did not drive the car before the repair. but it is for sure you do not have power to the rear wheels now, after the repair? stupid question, how did you determine there is no power going to the rear wheels? you have probably already posted this but i just don't remember. ps: the VSS will/ should throw a code if bad.

the problem is either in the transfer clutch or maybe the trans, a fluid issue. before you went to the dealer, did the car have binding in tight turns?

if you cut the power to the duty c and still have no power to the rear, then you have a mechanical problem. either in the transfer clutch, drive shaft, the rear diff, or the axles. probably the transfer clutch. are both rear axles in tact? does the CEL light up with the other dash lights when you turn the key to on?

i'm with shawn, are there any trouble codes? if the front speed sensor fails you will have no power to the rear wheels. unplug the tcu and drive the car. it should be in ''limp'' mode, 3rd gear only and major torque bind in tight circles. this will tell you if there is trans fluid pressure at the clutch and if the clutch parts are working properly.

do you have a cel on the dash?

i found several, but these 2 seem promising. i have not read through either of them today, sorry if they do not apply. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/41182-symptoms-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.html?highlight=outback+pump+fuel+o-ring http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/26419-2001-subaru-just-shut-down.html?highlight=outback+pump+fuel+o-ring full list http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/search.php?searchid=786346

there is a known problem, apparently a little known problem, with the fuel pump. an o-ring in the fuel pump to be exact. it squeezes out of position and then the pump doesn't pump so well. this pump and o-ring is specific to the H6, not used on the H4. i have read about this twice. once a good while ago and i forgot it. buy i read a thread about it recently on subaruoutback.org . just a guess, but probably a pretty good one since starting fluid fired it up. i would look for that thread and read up.

having never swapped seats in a 99 or 98 i can't say for 100%, but i do not believe this is accurate. how close are the bolt holes? i think seats interchange 90 - 04.

the ej22 in the 99 should be a phase 2 engine, just like the 02 ej25. so yes, all the parts from the ej25 will bolt right on. i'm not sure about the 99 ej22 y-pipe, if it is single port, then yes you will need to swap it as well. there should be no problem swapping the fly wheel / clutch over to the ''new'' engine.

are the tires the same size?

i'm glad you have a plan you can live with but i see a flaw in your thinking. of course i don't know ALL of what went in to your decision. timing belts are done every 60k on these engines. even if you do a full rebuild, which i think isn't needed at the moment but each to his own, you will still be doing a timing belt in 60k miles. and a timing belt kit id only $125 w/ the water pump. front oil seals are another $30 at the dealer. i have never done an EA timing belt but i hear that the EJs are easier. check, clean, prime the HLAs and see what happens, but if you have to address the oil pump just do the timing belt then. it will buy you 60k miles. or at least a few until something worse happens. for less then $200, you can install all new timing belt, idlers, water pump, front oil seals, and a used oil pump. if the car only takes you 2000 miles that 10 cents a mile. my guess is it will go that far and more. if it goes 20k miles that is 1 cent a mile. this is more likely. hth

$2.49 at autozone. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Blitz-Transmission-funnel/_/N-25xj?itemIdentifier=557785_0_0_

did you use the correct timing marks? never the arrows. you can buy heads for about $100 each, or less.

matching trans for 93 impreza auto: impreza 93 - 98, from ej22 & ej18 cars legacy 95 - 98, from ej22 cars (not ej25 cars, Outback, GT or LSi.) what is wrong with your trans?

so now we know the max life of a timing belt on a 97 ej22. line up the timing marks and hang a belt on it. if it runs like crap you have bent valves. if it runs ok, you got lucky. for more piece of mind do a compression & leak down test. you usually will have a bad idler or something else tyhat caused the belt to fail. but if the belt was ''not new'' when you bought the car it could be the belt. any ide when the T-belt was last done? if you didn't ''force'' the engine by hand when it stopped you probably didn't do any extra damage, but you never know. worst case, you throw the car away. next worst, you replace the head gaskets. how much would you spend to get another car that will serve your needs?? that is your budget for repairing this one, regardless of the value of the car. good luck.

''grossgary'' did a rad swap of some kind. i don't remember the particulars, but ... my 97 GT has mounting holes for both the L and the GT rad. i even took pics and posted them in garys thread. do a search. i don't know which years will fit or which parts will swap, but at least some do. but the overflow bottles are rad specific, i think. so in the long run a new rad for your car may be easier. i replaced the one in my GT with one from advance auto. i ordered it online, used a discount coupon (google that, lots to pick from, ''save $30 on $100''.) and picked it up in my local store. it came complete and i had it in the same day for ~$100. so unless the used rad is really really chjeap and you have a lot of time .......

automatic? or manual?

i agree that the best thing to do is not drive the car until removed, but.... does the tube float, if no, then it is PROBABLY on the bottom. and probably not a threat, but i don't know. if it is on the bottom you may be able to fish it out. i would try this. but if it does not float i wouldn't worry about it too much. the c-clips that hold the axle stubs into the diff sometimes drop off and fall to the bottom, or so i hear, and most folks don't labor over that. depending on how far the fill tube extends into the diff, the lost plastic tube may not have enough room to turn out of it. it may be standing in the fill tube. i guess it just depends on the tube and it's make up. another and rather drastic idea would be to drain the gear oil and fill with a little less, maybe half as much, acetone. this will ''melt'' most plastics. let is sit, don't rotate anything, and then drain, rinse and re-fill with gear oil. of course the risk here is the acetone ''melting'' the gasket material as well.

it sounds like the diagnostic connector. by using the loose single pin grounding wires you can ''flash'' trouble codes for the TCU, ABS, SRS and maybe more. search ''readtranscodes''.

maybe it jumped time. how many miles? how many miles on the t-belt?

it's probably power steering fluid which is ATF. is the top of the block under the PS pump wet, dark?

the 99 legacy ej22 is a phase 2 engine, like the 00 - 04 ej25. i'm not sure about the 99 obs? the 98 obs is a phase 1 ej22 so it is easier. for phase 1 ej22s: remove the air filter cover and MAF, maybe the snorkus. remove the washer fluid tank. wash of the top of the valve covers where it meets the head. you don't want dirt falling off of the head into the rocker assembly. the flat side of the gasket goes toward the head, the rounded side goes toward the cover. warm the engine up a little, this makes the breater tubes on the vsalve covers softer and less likely to crack. not a big deal but ..... i tighten the bolts form the center out a little bit at a time. if you are doing the spark plugs at the same time, and it is less then $9 for 4 plugs, do the plugs before you pull the valve cover gaskets. the plugs make a bit of dirt so have the ciovers on when you do them.

AWD or FWD??? if AWD the final drive ratio MUST match you existing rear diff. if FWD any FWD trans from the 90s will do. i'm pretty sure the final drive ratio in your 92 lego is a 4.11. you can certainly use 90 - 92 auto trans. and i know the 95 - 97 legos w 2.2L engines also use the 4.11 ratio in the auto trans as well, so you can use them. but your best bet is probably a 93 - 96/7 impreza auto trans. i think there is less demand for them so they may be cheaper. check the FD ratio on this site: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32148 and then get a copy of the FSM: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ and then find a trans at: www.car-part.com put in your zip and sort by distance. you will have to search each year and model separately, but you will/ should have lots to choose from. good luck and happy motoring.