johnceggleston

nice head gasket, but where do you get an EJ engine with 4 cylinders in a row.

it will fit, but make sure about the ABS if you need it.

wait, if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times at start up this menas there was an electrical fault in the trans the last time the car was driven. it could be the duty c but it could also be a shift solenoid or the temp sensor. you can flash the trans codes and read the trouble code. do a search for ''readtranscodes under dash connector ground*'' and look for the info. good luck

ratio info: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32148 when swapping a 5 speed in the 90s , there are two concerns, final drive ratio and push vs. pull clutch. the final drive ratio is easily over come by swapping in the matching rear diff. the push vs. pull clutch is not so easy. (this is not a cable vs. hydraulic issue.) but generally speaking if the 90 5speed has a 4.11 final drive ratio (95 5speed has a 3.9 final drive ratio, 100% sure) just get the rear diff too, you should be able to bolt it in and go, no worries. EDIT: you can use any 5 speed trans from 95 - 98 leagcy 2.2L car, (not Outback, LSi or GT.) you can use any 5 speed trans from 95 - 98 IMPREZA 2.2L car or 1.8L car. search www.car-part.com you will have to search each year and model separately but you will have lots to pick from. put in your zip code and sort by distance. shipping will likely cost you $150.

sorry but i have to ask, what are these and how are they different from my 95 - 96 engines? i know about the SLAs vs HLAs. is this the part of the rocker that rides on the cam? thanks.

this is not an unusual problem. if the crank bolt is not torqued to spec it can loosen and wallow out the slot in the crank, or the sprocket. if the sprocket is damaged you should replace it. (this assumes you bought the correct key.) but you can put it back together in spite of a wallowed key way and it can be good. you just need to set it up right and torque it correctly. the bolt does all the holding, or is supposed to. the key is mostly just to locate it correctly . some one has put one together with out a key, just the bolt. and it ran fine. the direction of rotation and wear is the opposite of the direction of tightening the bolt. so when you are putting it together, the sprocket does not usually move away from the correct timing position. lots of info on this, search is your friend.

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ the map is on the passenger strut tower and is connected to the intake manifold by small black ''vac'' tube/s. there is supposed to be a small filter in the middle of the hose run. check to make sure it is there and that all the hose connection are tight. Causes A P0106 could be caused by: Bad MAP sensor Water/dirt intrusion affecting MAP sensor connector Intermittent open in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor Intermittent short in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor Ground problem due to corrosion causing intermittent signal problem A break in the flexible air intake duct between the MAF and the intake manifold Bad PCM (do not assume the PCM is bad until you've exhausted all other possibilities) Possible Solutions Using a scan tool, watch the MAP sensor value with the key on, engine off. Compare the BARO reading with the MAP reading. They should be roughly equal. The voltage for the MAP sensor should read approx. 4.5 volts. Now start the engine and look for a significant drop in the MAP sensor voltage indicating the MAP sensor is working. If the MAP reading doesn't change perform the following: With the Key on, engine off, disconnect the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor. Using a vacuum pump, pull 20 in. of vacuum on the MAP sensor. Does the voltage drop? It should. If it doesn't inspect the MAP sensor vacuum port and vacuum hose to manifold for a restriction of some kind. Repair or replace as necessary. If there are no restrictions, and the value doesn't change with vacuum, then perform the following: with the Key on and engine off and the MAP sensor unplugged, check for 5 Volts at the reference wire to the MAP sensor connector with a Digital Voltmeter. If there is none, check for reference voltage at the PCM connector. If the reference voltage is present at the PCM connector but not the MAP connector, check for open or short in the reference wire between MAP and PCM and retest. If reference voltage is present, then check for existing ground at the MAP sensor connector. If it isn't present then repair open/short in the ground circuit. If ground is present, then replace MAP sensor. Other MAP sensor trouble codes include P0105, P0107, P0108 and P0109. typically this is the front o2 sensor. bet one online from subaru. the next step would be to replace the rear o2 sensor. that one can be generic, cheaper. or it could also be an exhaust leak. Causes A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / exhaust pipe Retarded spark timing The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings Possible Solutions Some suggested steps for troubleshooting a P0420 error code include: Check for exhaust leaks at the manifold, pipes, catalytic converter. Repair as required. Use a scope to diagnose the oxygen sensor operation (Tip: The oxygen sensor in front of the catalytic converter normally has a fluctuating waveform. The waveform of the sensor behind the converter should be more steady). Inspect the downstream heated oxygen sensor (HO2), replace if necessary Replace the catalytic converter See also: P0420.com P1143 Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input i'm not sure what ''pressure'' they are talking about, but usually ''circuit'' codes are wiring related. maybe this is MAP related. does any one know?

FSMs this is the most recent find http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.c...forum.php?f=18 and this is the old standard http://www.main.experiencetherave.co..._manual_scans/

how did you figure this?

you have driven the car for ~2 years since the swap, right? has the CEL been on the whole time, or did just recently come on? bad gas mileage could be the front o2 sensor.

for the outbacks at least, there are a few early ones in 99MY that use the same trans as the 98 outback, TZ102Z2DBA as opposed to the phase 2 trans, TZ1A2ZJEBA. but i have no idea how many. and i do not know if the legacy was similar. i think there is only one trans listed for the GT. it all depends on what you are trying to do, replace existing with used, install new /rebuilt with 3/36 warranty, or swap in an ej22 to keep it on the road. price will vary widely.

the swap is not hard. the main difference is probably the driver side cam sprocket. swap the old one on to your ''new'' engine and go. you might also swap the intake manifold with all the wiring, but i don't think that is necessary. not sure where you have looked for engines, but this is a good source if you have not tried it. http://www.car-part.com put in your zip code and sort by distance. see what is close. then sort by price and go to the middle. you might find a deal in spite of shipping. you can also try searchtempest.com and search craigslist as far away as you want. good luck.

+1, what he said.

you are going to want to buy a subaru gasket. iirc, there was a post just this week or last by user ''ccrinc'', emily said they have had some trouble with the 00 - 04 head gasket from subaru so they have started using the ''turbo'' gasket. she may have posted the part number look for her post.

if you are committed to removing it you can cut off the wires at the sensor and use a BOX END 7/8 wrench. it grips well, will not spread so it can't slip and since you are throwing the sensor away you do not need the wires. but i have doen the same thing by feeding the wires thru the ''box'' of the wrench. pblaster is a must. warming the exhaust up is good too. just don't burn yourself. i'm not sure which is better, banging with a hammer to get it starter or strong steady pressure. i'm a fan of impact wrenches so it a tap or 2 with a hammer to get started. on reinstall, you need it tight enough to not leak but it does not need to be as tight as it was when you removed it. on a side note, i used too much force and not enough pblaster or heat on a 96 exhaust that was off the car and i twisted the bung out of the converter / exhaust. not a big repair but avoid this if you can.

there is a TSB, #10-74--2, date 09/01/02, for the 01-02 AC compressor. i don't know if it is related to your trouble but i might be worth a search.

i asked an independent tranny shop about my 97 GT hard 1-2 shift. he asked about the mileage, 155k and responded with, ''at that mileage just rebuild it.'' of course he would , that's his business. he then commented that to really know what is going on you have to know what info is being sent to the trans. is the TPS sending good / accurate info. is the TCU good. and i don't know what else..... so it is either the TCU sending bad info, or the solenoids not able to do what they are supposed to. that's my guess any way.

FYI: the tire size difference is 14.5%. that sounds like a lot but it changes 13.5 mpg to 15.45 mpg. not a lot since we are talking about such small numbers.

a possible solution might be to buy used subaru axles from the parts salvage yard and install new boots. subaru axles are much better than after market, as you know, and even with torn boots, if they still have grease in them they will last a long time. folks here do it.

and a much more even ''foot'' on the accelerator pedal. planes don't usually vary the rpms like a car, do they?

imprezas 93 - 94 were all ej18s. starting in 95 the ej22 was available. and outback sports, OBS, were all ej22s, so avoid them. check out http://www.cars101.com/subaru_archives.html for more detailed info. and of course if it has not been said, FWD is more economical than AWD. EDIT: for 1995

check the timing? how old is the belt, idlers and water pump?

first things first, what year are we talking about. they moved the duty c some time after the 04 year. i'm not sure when . no power to the rear is not the duty c unless you have a short in the system. and then it is the short, not the duty c. grounding out a specific pin on the TCU will cause no rear power. this is EXACTLY what the fuse does by design. (does the FWD light come on if you put the fuse in?) EDIT: it maybe could be the duty c IF it were stuck in the open position. but then it would probably be gunk related not electrically related. is the rear section of the drive shaft in place??? if no, it was probably removed to eliminate ''torque bind'' in the ''new trans''. if yes, the problem is probably inside the rear extension housing. the transfer clutch drum could be busted, or the clutch discs could be worn out. (my bet is on no drive shaft.) as mentioned, unplugging the tcu SHOULD give you binding on dry pavement in tight turns. it will also limit you to R and 3. you will be in ''limp'' mode, designed so you can limp home. if you have binding then the mechanical part are there and in good working order. hoe long has she had this problem? how long has the trans been in? how old id the ATF? have you tried doing a drain and fill 3 times with driving in between to replace the fluid.? have you tested it with the gear selector in 1?

205/50/16 are about your stock size, a little smaller. and 205/55/16 will fit, they are the stock GT size and about 5/8 inch larger than stock.

in my opinion, you can tell when they are bad, they are rough and noisey. but unless you can see into the future you cannot tell if they will last 60k miles until the next timing belt change, unless you replace them. the only way to be sure is to replace them. short of that you better be willing to replace valves and head gaskets if you don't and they fail.