johnceggleston

2 thoughts, 1/ i'm going to check my 96 ej22 engine in my 97 GT for this today. but i'm pretty sure mine is running rich all the time. 2/ since you only had one tank of good mileage, is there any chance you didn't completely fill the tank when you filled up? 13.33 gals at 27 miles per gallon = 360 miles. but that means there were still 2.5 gals still in the tank. was the low fuel light on when you filled up?

with stock struts, 205/70/15 will rub. outback stock size, 205/70/15, is ~2 inches larger in diameter than stock leagcy, 185/70/14 or 195/60/15.

remove the under pan until you sort out the leak, then you can re-install it.

if you are replacing those seals, what other seals should be replaced? typically they are all the same age. usually i have found that when i think i only need one part from the dealer, i'm overlooking something. if you are doing the o-rings (the belt has to come off) why not the cam shaft seals, crank seal, t-belt, idlers, water pump? not all of these need to come from the dealer, but now is the time since it will be open. all the oil seals for a 2.2L engine (2 cam , 1 crank, 2 cam cap o-rings, and the oil pump o-ring, if needed. i think i'm forgetting one.) will cost about $30 wholesale from the dealer. (~20% more retail.) just a thought.

use RTV ultra gray, a thin coat. you don't want globs of it to squish inside and get pumped around the engine. crank seal. oil pump o-ring. i'm sure shawn will help with this as well.

the 02 should work, but you will have to use the cam sprockets off of the 00 engine and swap them onto the 02.

off topic, what do you call the sleeves that fit over the scarred end of a crank providing a new surface for the seal to bear on??? maybe the crank end is messed up.

and to top it all off, the torque spec for these is something in the teens i think.

swap the wires in between 1 and 3 and see if the mis fire moves.

i have not read much about the tach or what feeds it. but it would make sense if the crank sensor fed info to the tach. does any one know for sure?

correct me if i'm wrong, the 92 has HLAs so they might be oil starved first. that may be the knocking noise. my 95 would make an awful racket when the oil go low. and it is still going strong 40k later. the ej22, 90 - 96, will take a lot of abuse. it does sound like the oil pump, but they don't really fail very often. the screws do loosen on the back side , that's pretty common. but the pump is always submerged in oil, that is the last part to be oil starved. but then again, anything is possible. when was the timing belt last done? how many miles ago? checking or replacing the oil pump isn't hard. you can do it in an afternoon. you can probably do it in the parking lot of the parts store. (you can do it without draining the radiator if you don't remove the water pump. it will puke a little oil when you pull the oil pump.) since you don't want to spend a bunch of money on it, i would remove the oil pump and check it , probably have a used replacement ready if needed. cam and crank seals are readily available at the local parts store IF NEEDED (crank seal will be needed.). if the oil pump repair fixes it, drive it a while to see if anything else fails. do the rest of the timing belt later, that way you save the ~$130 for the kit. if the car is still alive next year, do the belt kit.

i don't know about NY, but in VA the value of the car is fixed based on some schedule, UNLESS you have a ''bill of sale'' wit hall the info reqiuired by that, names, addresses, vin, mileage, sale price, location of sale, terms of sale and signatures, date of sale, etc.....

i hear that oil in the plug tubes can cause mis-fires. oil in the tubes means the tube seals are bad. which also means the valve cover gaskets are probably bad. (why replace the VC gasket without replacing the tube seals.?) 3 & 4 share the same half of the coil. but it could also be the igniter supplying the coil, since the coil is new. there is a test but i don't know what it is .

if you numbers come back the same, or similar, i would probably try a different tester. unless you have absolute confidence in yours. my guess is it gets used so rarely you wouldn't really know if it was out of whack. just a thought. i would hate to see you do a lot of work based on bad info. i think i have heard that high, a little high, compression numbers are possible if the timing is off. but your are so high, or seem to be to me, that i doubt that is the cause.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/18175-replacing-lights-instrumet-cluster.html

true, but it will spin off the axle nut even when it is staked.

now that you mention it, i had a bad 98 obw comp and swapped in a 97, i got a evap code and a ''traction control '' code and maybe another one. this took place during a ej22 swap. i worked with it for a while with no solution. i finally swapped in a good 98 and all was good.

injectors?

on the legacy side , i have noticed a slight difference in the computer pinouts for 98OBW vs the 97. i didn't have any trouble running a 96 computer in a 97 GT. and i'm not sure if the computers changed in 98 or if the harness changed, probably the computers. i assume the impreza had similar changes in similar years. but for fewer ''ghost'' trouble codes, match the harness to the ECU.

if the oil sensor is leaking oil down the back of the block you must be adding oil every week / day. on the other hand, if you have evidence of oil leaking on the front and rear of the block, there are OTHER more common causes. in the front, the oil pump, cam and crank seals. on the rear, and this is a biggie, the oil separator plate on the rear of the block behind the flex plate or fly wheel, depending. or it could be the valve cover gaskets on either side of the engine. all of these are leak potential points. we have come a pretty long way with out any car specific info, year, model, engine, trans, miles, would be helpful. all subarus leak oil after a time. none of the leaks are deadly as long as you keep oil in the engine, and all are repairable given the right amount of time and a little bit of money. the most difficult one is the oil sep plate on the rear of the block. you have to pull the engine to address it. all the others can be done one day on a week end.

coming from a construction/ plumbing background i keep teflon tape in my toiletries kit. you just never know when you will come across a leaking shower head. and i use it on anything having to do with liquids / air / steam / gases and pressure. but almost anything will do on low pressure automotive systems if it has lubricating and/or sealing properties. part of the old old old fashioned ''pipe dope'' (pipe joint compound) was oil to lube the threads. the other part was some kind of filler to fill in the gaps. but i digress.....

2 things 1/ oil does not seep from your engine temp sensor, coolant may seep from it, but not oil. 2/ where is this temp sensor located? the oil pressure sending unit is located on the front of the engine under the alternator, it COULD leak oil. the power steering pump may leak oil on to the top of the engine making you think the temp sensor is leaking oil. and the temp sensor, both of them, are located on the crossover pipe under the intake manifold on the passenger side accessed from the rear. but gary is right, if it is leaking, a little sealant on the threads should fix it. the power steering pump, if it is leaking, is a little bit more of a job.

i just bought a '01 H6 VDC w/ 156k miles and a bad trans for cheap. replaced the trans and it is now running great. but it did leak oil pretty bad when i first drove it. the oil cooler gasket ($8) at the oil filter likes to leak. so if the engine leaks oil that could be it. pretty easy job, but if there is a lot of dirt on the engine wash it off first. you will want to change the oil and filter at the same time, but only some of the coolant leaks out. i first replaced the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals (and the spark plugs, $75 retail). that is a real pain. one bolt, lower rear on the cover, is almost impossible. the ratchet wrench i have would only click 2 or 3 times before i ran out of room and had to reverse direction. if you don't have a set before you do this job, it is worth it to get one just for it. there is no room for a socket. the oil cooler leak blows back onto the valve cover and makes it look like that is leaking. and i think the oil leak was less after i replaced the VC gaskets, the oil spots in the drive way seemed to be less. the VC gaskets were hard and brittle, nothing like the replacements i got from the dealer ($100). so i'm still glad i did them. and having them off did make the spark plugs easier to get to. but i wouldn't pull the valve cover just to do the plugs. and one screwy thing, the VC gaskets had what looked like RTV on them. is this standard or just a case of someone trying to save money on parts? i asked the dealer about the cost of a valve adjustment , they quoted $250, shims not included (bucket and shim like the ej25 DOHC). given the work involved, this is a bargain in my opinion. the service manager also said they don't usually adjust them unless they are making noise. but if you remove the valve covers for any reason, measure the valve clearance so you can at least make an informed decision. any way, the H6 is a great engine and fun to drive.

some times, i hear, when the stub shaft comes out the cir-clip pops off and drops to the bottom of the diff case. usually this is not a problem. i heeded you can just remove the axle stub and pop on another clip and reinstall. no worries. but you probably do want to check it every now and then, in case something (else?) is causing it to pop out.

yes, however you work it, you want the intake connected to the threaded hole on the engine. and yes that is the PCV. the valve in a PCV is a check valve allowing pressure / crank case fumes to flow one way but not the other. (i had a 1961 chevy pickup with a little V8, its PCV consisted of a hose attached to the crank case that ran down the block dripped on the ground. that was positive crankcase ventilation.) i wasn't aware of the differences, one sounds like the PCV is threaded into the block and the other is located further downstream on the hose? but simply put, you need a check valve and the crank case connected to the intake, and ALL hose nipples either connected or sealed. how you get there probably is not critical. in the late 90s engines, the injectors are not an issue as long as they work correctly. the computer is going to adjust the fuel air ratio to the proper amount and the engine runs fine. good work on the EGR. so i take it you are using the ej22 block and the ej25 intake manifold or just the plastic tubing from the air filter box to the throttle body??