johnceggleston

i had a dodge mini van that would smoke at start up. i was told it was the valve guides, oil leaking down into the cylinders after i turned the car off. i don't really know. i put 40 wt. oil in it and that helped a lot with the smoking. what would make an ej engine smoke at start up, and still be able to pass an emissions tests?

the 98 and 01 block are interchangeable. i doubt the 04 is different, but i don't really know. the blocks are really ''dumb''. all the technical stuff in in the heads and intake. an 01 block is a good solution for a 96 - 99 ej225 with rod knock. and it usually comes with out the worry of over heating.

i suspect even a good 00 - 04 ej25 short block (maybe a good complete engine) with your heads, gadkets and intake would be cheaper than redoing the crank, bearings, rings, pistons ....... of course it may depend on your labor costs. look for an ej25 with a busted timing belt, 96 - 04, and put on your heads.

also check the hose s going to it, i have heard they can clog as well.

foresters are different. it won't fit.

not the only source but a good one, http://www.car-part.com or this http://www.searchtempest.com

the ej22 in this car is the same one you drove in both of the other 2 subarus you have driven. it is a great engine and not prone to head gasket failure. generally speaking if you keep oil in it , it will run for ever. i doubt the exhaust leak, i can't imagine a NY inspection station passing it if it really has one, but i don't know. it could be probably is engine oil or axle boot grease burning on the exhaust pipe. maybe. there is a plate on the rear of the engine behind the fly wheel that leaks, but you have to pull the engine to get to it. valve cover gaskets leak, and maybe the cam, crank and oil pump seals on the front. but all of that is fairly small stuff , except pulling the engine unless you have a garage and engine hoist, and you can take care of them over time. none are expensive. if you get it , you might want to plan pulling the engine, resealing the front of the engine and replacing the timing belt and all it touches. then you will be good for 60k and it won't drip. i coulndn't see the pics without your password. there is a way to insert them in the post by clicking on the yellow icon that looks like a post card with a mountain on it. you will see it just above the box you type your response in. timing belt due every 60k, at 228k miles. you can get good quality parts from ''theimportexpert'' on ebay. kit with water pump about $130. but you don't have to wait until then. the engine you have is an interference engine, if any one timing belt component fails, it will bend valves, $$$$. so the question is were all the pieces replaced the last 2 times the belt was changed?

outback struts, 96 - 99 are about 2 inches longer than the legacy struts, 95 - 99. but the outback struts will bolt right in the legos springs and all for an easy 2'' lift. and of course you can then install outback wheels and tires for another 1 inch of height, if you want.

i scrapped a 01 4eat, $17.

FYI: there was an H6 engine for sale in NC recently on craigslist, charlotte maybe. found it, http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/2795737551.html

in the US the FWD fuse holder is located under the hood / bonnet on the passenger (right as sitting in the car) side rear near the windshield wiper motor. it is black and about the size and shape of a black ZIPPO lighter or a bit smaller. your may be in a different location since you drive on the wrong side of the road. but i would look near the wiper motor since the brake master cylinder may be in the way. you may be able to figure it out by looking here: http://opposedforces.com/parts at some point they moved it into the fuse box under the hood. one of the fuses closet to the strut tower and washer bottle. but it should be labled on the cover if it is . do you have an owners manual?

the FWD fuse, when in place, grounds out a pin on the TCU which switches the duty-c to be energized all the time. so if you can find that pin / wire at your TCU or harness somewhere then you could created a FWD fuse holder. by the way, where did you look for the FWD fuse holder????? i don't know what year this pin out is for but it came from this thread on 4WD lockup switch, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=996223#post996223

i had a 98 that used to lock an unlock at odd times, turning on and turning off maybe. i can't remember. but i figured it was due to the ''aftermarket'' security system since i have never seen or heard of a subaru from the 90s doing it . what year is yours?

too bad we lost the link on the top of the page to ''SUBARUs of the 80s ''. i went to look up some specs the other day and had to google it to find the site. lucky i remembered the title. SUBARUs of the 80s

sounds like the alternator may be going. check the battery cable connections, make sure they are clean. and then go to the parts store and have them test you alt.

this sounds like it is a replacement rad, or did they use the AT rad for both AT and MT cars from the factory??

the reason the top hose is hot and the bottom hose is cold is because there is an air lock in the cooling system. or more likely an ''exhaust gas lock''. the exhaust gas builds up in the system and eventually it creates an exhaust bubble so big the coolant will not flow. if you loosen the vent plug on the passenger side of the rad where the top rad connects this will / should / might allow the gas to escape preventing the air lock. there is also a rad cap with a vent clamp on top which will do the same thing if you drive with it ''un-clamped''. i forget the name brand. but as long as the exhaust gas escapes the system the coolant should flow preventing the ''over heat'' and the no heat out of the heater. but you will have to keep an eye on the coolant level. check it every AM until you get a feel for how much you are loosing. then check it and add as often as needed. depending on where you live, you might ''thin out'' or water down the coolant you add. keep it strong enough to prevent freezing but thin it enough to save some $. how long before you buy a car? good luck.

and finally, with the fuse IN you have FWD only. removing the fuse gives you AWD. and you should not drive with the ''fuse in'' any more than you have to. the car was designed to be AWD.

the owners manuals i've read, 95 - 98 and 00 - 01, all show 10w30 as standard for 0 degrees F and up. but 5w30 for below 0 degrees up to 100 or so. i can't remember the high end number.

the haynes manual will work for your car except for the items specific to the H6 engine, or the H6engine and VDC trans in my case. the rest of the car is the same, mostly. thanks for the link.

yeah, the only reason a frankenmotor would be a good solution for an ej25 car is if the cost of the ej22 heads and intake was less than the cost of the head repair for the ej25 AND money was really really tight. (like you already have the ej22 engine and it ran out of oil and has rod knock.) hello, jack: does any one know if an '08 ej25 block would swap for an '00 ej25 block, using '00 heads and intake for an '00 - '04 car car? i have the heads and there is an '08 short block for sale near me.

the cost of re-installing later would only be the added price of 2 rear axles (rear axles should be cheap). the price of the diff isn't going to change dramatically. so the cost of the axles and your time to remove all the stuff and then re-install all the stuff. less money now to remove the diff and maybe about the same time. but a more money and time later if you wanted to return to AWD. check for parts and prices at www.car-part.com. put in your zip and sort your search by distance. shipping might be expensive. on the off chance that someone swapped in a trans , or rear diff, that did not match the other, compare the trans code number on the bell housing at the starter and the trans number on the id tag on the driver side strut tower before you buy a rear diff. you just want to make sure the rear matches the front. we can help if you post the trans number. (stock rear diff was a 4.11 final drive ratio, and stock trans was a TZ102ZAAAA in 95, or possibly a TZ102ZABAA for a late 95 or 96. i think that trans number is right for 96, but in either case they were both 4.11 final drive ratios.) i would think texas would be a good place to find parts with low salt exposure and or rust. does it snow much in your area.

the HLAs on the 95-96 ej22s are great. but if your oil level gets too low they will start to rattle. on my 95, adding 10w30 to the proper level would correct the problem, every time. yea!! i all but yelled at my son about keeping oil in the engine. and he finally figured out he had to check it every week. but the ticking acted like a warning sound for low oil. of course, replacing the leaking seals was / is the real fix. and the ej22 is so resilient it just keeps running. as stated, don't leave the MMO in forever. change the oil . use 10w30 or if really cold, 5w30. straight 30w is too thick at start up, especially in the winter. use the proper oil.

the trouble with shops , lifts and the pinch weld jack points is that the lifts tend to crush or bend the standing seam/ fin. this makes it difficult to place a jack later. no one seems to bother with either being careful or using different lift points, ... except ricearu.

i found these a couple of three hours from me. no info other than the ad. but the starting price is pretty good. relatively new listing: http://greensboro.craigslist.org/pts/2777346725.html and this, over one month old: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/2813160007.html