johnceggleston

no, to the 99 obw trans. but i do have a 98 obw, rebuilt by subaru, trans. too bad it will not work in your car. good luck.

bulb sockets.

on the fronts, removing the top strut to spindle bolt and loosening the lower one will create enough space for axle removal. i have torn down a rear to remove the diff, but i don't remember the details about the axle removal. but rear axles don't fail often so it is possible that it has not been removed since the factory. so it could be a real bear to remove the axle from the hub. so if you could separate the axle without removing it from the hub that would be a plus. but it could be harder to do than with the axle out of the car. even if it is possible.

if he's been running in FWD and getting noise out of the rear diff, removing jut the rear section of the drive shaft isn't going to be enough. so either the rear diff has to come out and the rear axles modified or just the axles need to be modified. by modified i mean leave the wheel hub section of the rear axle in place but remove the rest of the axle. once the drive shaft and axles are disconnected from the diff, removing the diff is optional, but you might want to drain the fluid out.

there is a drain plug in front of the trans oil pan. it takes a large allen type wrench. drain the front diff and let it drip for a long time to empty. then fill with the correct amount of gear oil. now, don 't forget the ATF. check it and fill correctly. do not drive the car until both are correct.

what other tube? you didn't put ATF in the short dip stick tube did you??? check the fluid with the engine off and cold on flat ground. there are ''cold'' marking on the dip stick. this should put you in the ball park. then check it with the engine running and hot. the fluid expands when hot. (maybe a pint or less, i hear.) pull the dip stick out and WAIT. wait for the fluid on the stick that coated the inside of the tube when you pulled it out to run back down into the trans. more time is better. then wipe it and re-insert it and pull it right back out. read both sides of the dip stick the lowest reading is the correct one. i have read, but never tried, dip the stick in ice water before you re-insert it. wipe the water off the stick and then re-insert it. don't leave it in so long that the stick warms up. something about the temp difference makes it easier to read. i'm not sure. one note, the difference between 'L' and 'H' is NOT a quart, more like a pint.

if the 95 ej22 car has an auto trans it will have the needed EGR and is the PERFECT donor engine, plug and play. if it is from a manual trans car it will not have EGR and you will have a CEL all the time. if you can live with that and if a CEL will not keep you from being inspected or registered in AK then you can still use it. plug and play. it will run fine. the EGR is all about emissions.

the marks you are using are great for checking the timing to see if it has jumped or not. but they are not the timing marks for installing a timing belt. i don't think it makes much difference on a non-interference engine but just so you know. thinking about it , it may be more difficult to keep the cams in the corrrect position during the install. no need to pull the cam sprockets unless you are replacing the cam seals. front seals for this engine, 2 cam, 1 crank, 2 cam cap o-rings, and 1 oil pump o-ring will run about $30 from an online dealer. i use subaru for these.

it looks like the pic shows a plastic separator, the flat head ''stove type'' bolts are recessed and the top of the head is flush with the plate. the new metal plates have round head bolts that are not recessed.

since you ask, i would like a couple of close ups of the TC fully seated showing the distance between the bell housing and the edge of the TC. i think something has changed with the phase 2 trans, maybe the TC and the starter ''teeth'', i'm not sure. but a comparison pic would be nice. no rush, it can wait if it is in pieces.

since the intakes will swap, a lot will be the same. did you compare the diameter of the combustion ring?

+1 for ''theimportexperts'' on ebay. belt, idlers and water pump, about $125 plus shipping. w/o pump ~$90, plus shipping. how long since you installed the engine? how long since the belt and idlers were done? how about the seals? any oil leaks? thanks for the pics, i wonder where the cams will end up when the crank is set on the timing mark.

it happens, old tired parts. pull the covers and look for a bad, leaking tensioner, or a seized idler. what year is your ej22?

on one of my cars, cant remember which, the boot had slipped down too close to the coil end of the wire. this left not enough wire end to insert fully into the coil causing problems. once i adjusted the boot and inserted the wire more it was all good.

the hoses for the ATF cooler, in the radiator, leave the trans as metal lines and then go to rubber hose. disconnect the hose from the metal line.

cheaper to just find a local shop to replace the bad joint in yours.

the ej18 is a great engine, it just has limited horse power. they take a lot of abuse and they don't usually have issue with head gaskets or burnt valves. they have HLAs which means you don't have to adjust the valves, ever. and they get good fuel economy. and they are non-interference. it may be a better fit with a manual trans where you can wind it out if you want, i don't really know. in europe in the early 90s the legacy came with an ej18 but in the US only it only came in the imprezas. it is a great engine. fix the timing , change the oil and drive it 150k more miles. or just until your other car is back on the road and then either sell it to a college student or keep it for winter.

search http://www.car-part.com for an engine. put in your zip code and sort by distance for what is close to home. then sort by price and go the ''cheap'' ones and see if shipping one in might be less, you never know.

i found some rust on a coolant pipe, where the heater pipe took from the crossover pipe, driver side rear above the head / block under the intake, on the last ej22 i swapped. i wire brushed and spray painted it orange, that was the only paint i had on hand.

i just bought an '01 outback VDC w/ H6, 157K miles and a DEAD trans. i replaced the trans and found a bad rear trans mount in the process. have your guy check it out. pick up on the rear of the trans. there is a rubber cushion in between 2 metal plates. i don't know how the plates are attached to the cushion, mine was completely loose, one plate not attached to the cushion. ~$67 from the dealer, less wholesale or online. humming could be the power steering pump, that's on my list.

the 99 legacy ej22 will / should swap in since it is a phase 2 engine like the one you have. and the 99 - 00 impreza ej22 should swap in just fine as well. but other than those engines (actually the same engine) you will have to find an ej25 from 00 - 04. 99 was the last year the 96 - 98 ej22 was swappable for the ej25. starting in '00 ('99 for the forester ej25s and all ej22s) all ej engines are phase 2 and will not swap with phase 1 engines. note: the blocks will swap from phase 1 to phase 2 but you have to use the original heads and intake.

generally speaking, any drive shaft from a 5 speed legacy, 90 - 94. search here and it will return all years that fit: www.car-part.com

there is no bolt with an alignment mark on it. if you are using a bolt as an alignment mark it is wrong.

not the arrows (labeled as the ''piston position marks'' ). always use the lines / hash marks (labeled as alignment marks). when the crank is positioned correctly, the key way in the crank sprocket is straight down in the 6 o'clock position.

either worn out transfer clutch plates or a busted clutch drum in the rear extension housing. unplug the large , 16 pin, wire connector on the rear of the engine passenger side. if feeds the trans. this will put the car in ''limp'' mode, reverse and 3 only. (the car will be very slow to get up to speed. but you can limp home.) it should also have torque bind. test drive in tight circles on dry pavement. if you have binding then the mechanical parts are there and working. if no binding then there is something broken or missing.