johnceggleston

i doubt it is the cap, but if you want to try oem, buy a used one. i'd make the shop that installed the tank fix it. something is not right.

there is a known issue of no brakes when super cold. i have read that replacing the brake booster helps, but i have a;lso read that it didn't fix it for some. i don't know thew solution. but until it is fixed, she MUST test the brakes before she pulls out. once they start working they are good until the next cold cold start.

maybe try putting it in valet mode. info here, look for your year: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#alpine

who installed the tank?? any chance the hoses got mixed up, kinked, twisted??

the car clicking and not starting is either the starter or the wires / connections or the battery. so try jumping it with another car to see if it will start. or put a charger on it over night. how old is the battery? once started, take it to a parts store, i would leave it running unless you have jumper cables with you, and have both the battery and the alt tested. then you will know. they may make you turn it off to hook it up. as suggested, use a jumper wire from the battery to the small spade connector on the starter solenoid when it clicks but will not start. if is the starter it still will not start, if it is the wires / connections / battery it will start.

this isn't bad. and these cars will run very rich at start up in the cold. i didn't think the intake on an ej25 would fit on an ej22 (except phase 2 engines), unless you are talking about the plastic tubing from the air filter box to the throttle body.

does the vibration go away when you slip it into 'N'? it isn't the motor mounts, it is probably the axles. have you replaced an axle recently? how long have you had the car? how many miles? was it doing this when you bought it? i installed an engine one time with no motor mounts on it. i lifted it back up and added them. it was a real b1tch, but i got it. of course i had the engine hoist right there to use and the dog bone on top of the trans was disconnected. but it is not the mounts, it's the axles, probably. cheap axles transfer the vibration from the engine to the front end of the car.

it may not be the rear main. it may be the plastic cover. they do leak. it will be interesting to see.

more info on the ej22 if interested.

no it is not compatible. you need a DOHC ej25, 96 - 99. (not all 99 ej25 were DOHC, the forester wasn't, the GTs and the outbacks were.) or a ej22 from 95 - 98 out of an auto trans car. some are easier than others so look around. i just posted this up some where this week. maybe a different forum.do a search.

yes, you have to lift the engine to replace / redo the oil pan gasket. BUT it may not be the oil pan gasket. there are other things that will leakand are much more common that will make it look like the oil pan gasket is leaking. 1/ the oil pump on the front of the engine 2/ and the oil separator plate on the rear of the engine. 3/ not to mention the valve cover gaskets. so before you go to all the trouble of replacing the oikl pan gasket, make sure it isn't one or all of these other things. where is the oil on the engine? front, rear? buy some parts cleaner and spray off the area and then watch it closely to see where it comes from when it comes back.

actually they are on DOHC engines since the spark plug tubes can't angle up. they have to be horizontal in order to miss the cam shafts. SOHC engines can have then point up a little. it makes a huge difference.

check for any vac hoses not connected. that would give similar symptoms.

change the wires first. use subaru or very high quality wires. cheap wires can cause issues right out of the box. wires are easier and are likely to correct the problem. or to test if it is the wires, move the #3 wire to a different cylinder and drive it for a while. changing the plugs is a little challenging because the spark plug tubes are level with the frame rails of the car. and there isn't a lot of working room.

i searched for an intake from a 97 with an auto trans. if it comes from that car it will have what you need. manual trans cars will not.

usually it is the contacts in the solenoid that get old, worn, charred, scorched. they aren't expensive, ~15$, and it may fix the problem. either that or adding a relay at the starter. (see other current thread.) the problem with replacement re-man starters, there are no real standards for what re-man means. so if it bench tests well, it can be put back in service with a coat of paint? and be called re-man. i would look for a used subaru starter from some one here or a salvage yard and replace the contacts before install. assuming your is bad. but my personal preference is to install a relay. i did it 5 years ago and i have never had a no start since. but it just depends on the cause of the problem. but relays are way cheaper and easier than replacing a starter. and in my opinion cheaper and easier than replacing contacts.

the push button inside is handy, but it ends up being more work and a longer wire run to the starter. just buy a decent relay. i used a generic headlight relay from advance for a few $. it has not failed in 5 years. the only other thing you might do before adding stuff, is to check to see if electricity is actually getting to the solenoid when you turn the key. adding a relay will not help if there is no juice from the ignition circuit to trip it. the relay is easy to install and easy to remove if you ever need to. regardless of what you do, make sure it is fused coming off the battery.

add a starter relay at the starter. it will correct the problem and it is cheap. the flow of electricity at the solenoid coming through the ignition circuit. adding a relay will give a very short run straight from the battery to the relay and then to the starter solenoid. i did this to my 97 outback 5 years ago and i have not had a no start since. search for "starterrelayfix" or starterrelay . i found the thread but some how witht the new format the quoted info is white or gray and you can't read it unless you highlight it so i copied it here and change the color below. see #3 below.

if it does it again try a jumper wire from the battery positive to the small spade connector on the starter solenoid. or even before that, maybe just a tap on the starter.

either one as long as it is from an ej22, but if impreza avoid 95. they were still OBD1 in 95, i think. i know the ej18 was OBD1 in 95. i don't KNOW that it wouyld make a difference but why take the chance. so imp 96 - 97 or lego 95 - 97. (in thinking about it, 97 may match your car the best.) around here they run about $65 - $75. 1997 Intake Manifold Subaru Legacy $50 Chuck & Eddie Used Auto Parts USA-CT(Southington) 860-628-9684

get one from a 95 - 96 car, maybe 97.

no, the 2 metal lines above / next to the top radiator hoes (one is larger than the other but both a pretty small) they go to the charcoal canister, which is mounted next to the ABS pump on the passenger side front. there are 2 devices on the passenger strut tower that get small vac hoses. (the same size as the hose that feeds the windshield washer spray nozzles on the hood.) these 2 hoses come off the back side of the intake manifold. one fits on a small brass nipple pointing to the rear of the manifold up high, kind of above the pcv, i think. the other one comes from under neath the intake manifold i think. one of the hoses has a small gray plastic filter in it. (the above is for the 95 - 96 ej22) later versions of the ej22, 97? - 98?, have only one hose going to the strut tower (i think they used a small ''T'' to connect the 2 hoses and eliminated one.) and then a small hose jumps from one device the other. look on your ej25, what ever small vac hoses it had need to be duplicated. when in doubt, plug any unused vac nipples.

the 95 impreza came with 2 possible engines, ej18 and ej22. both use the 4.11 final drive ratio in the auto trans. link below shows the ring and pinion, item #1, for the 95 impreza w/the ej18 engine, as 4.11 ratio. (car info at the top of the page.) http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_53/train/differential_transmission/ link below shows the ring and pinion, item #1, for the 95 impreza w/the ej22 engine, as 4.11 ratio. (car info at the top of the page.) http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_57/train/differential_transmission/ link below shows the ring and pinion, item #3, for the 95 legacy w/the ej22 engine, as 4.11 ratio. (car info at the top of the page.) http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/train/differential_transmission/

this doesn't sound like an o2 issue, this sounds like a wiring issue. i would test the resistance on the wires between the o2 sensor and the ECU. i'm not an electrical guy or know much about o2 sensor reading, but i thought the voltage was suppose to vary from 0 to 1 volt when working properly. or am i thinking of something else.?

it would help to know what year car and and what year ej22. the evap system / charcoal canister moved in 98, i think. the routing pic on the hood for the 2.5L should work, nothing on the car has changed. you just have to make sure you connect to all the right places on the manifold. they are very similar. what codes are you getting.?