johnceggleston

91 heads are going to have HLAs so it may take a while to pump them up and get them fully functional. let it idle for a while. they should quiet down. i have done two ej22 swaps w/ HLAs, and both times i thought there was something wrong with the new engines. but in time they are both fine and both still running strong.

this site will show you what was / is standard and optional. i doubt there is a very good record of any items that may have been added by the dealer, but you never know. http://www.cars101.com/subaru_archives.html

very true, for some, but not for me. and maybe not for someone looking for a cheap winter car. especially if they do not do their own repairs or are a first time subaru buyer. value , like beauty, is in the eye of the buyer (and the seller).

again.

hold up, the title says 00 axle, the post says 99 axle. which is it.? 00 and 95 may be different. at some point they moved the tone ring for the abs from the hub to the axle. i don't know the year. look for thew axle you need , the year, at www.car-part.com and the results will show you the years that fit.

yes, it will fit.

the 99 brighton should have the phase 2 ej22. but i have not heard much about them having head gasket problems. but of course anything is possible.

i'm not familiar with a write up, but i just did a 00 engine and there are LOTS of engine to trans bolts, make sure you get them all. do not force the trans and engine apart until you are sure all bolts are out. one thing i do remember, the trans bolt just below the starter. it has to be installed BEFORE the starter is installed. once the starter is in you cannot get a wrench / socket on the trans bolt. the torque converter is the bigg thing. make sure you get that right. i did notice that the TC on the 00 trans (compared to a 95 - 98 trans) appears to sit further out from the bell housing. so i would try and get a measure on the existing set up before pulling the trans.

it could be an alarm indicator / valet switch.

good suggestion. the hose from the filter goes to the top most of the 3 fittings. the other 2 then become self evident.

correction, the ''asking'' price is $800.

you probably only need one cover removed to confirm the belt is loose. it's going to be slack. i would try and go out in the rain and spray some pblaster on the cam cover bolts today. give it overnight to work. if they haven't been off recently the nut end embedded in the plastic will twist out and bust it up.

99 was a transition year. the outbacks got the phase 2 trans but i don't think all 99s got the phase 2 trans. and if you search thru opposed forces and look at a list of trans code numbers you will see that some are different. i would stick with a trans that has the same first 6 or 7 characters as yours. this is probably going to exclude the 99s. let me explain: the last 3 characters of the code number refer to the car the trans went in to. it may define the speedo gears. the first 6 character identifies the trans. in the 90s the 7th character defined the final drive ratio, not sure if this holds for the 00+. 90 - 98 legacy / impreza trans AWD were all the same trans = TZ102Zxxxx. 96 - 98 2.5L trans were the same, (same as other 2.5L and 2.2L) =TZ102Z2xxx, but they all had a different final drive ratio and they all had a 2 after the second 'Z' . the 99 outback is different TZ1A2Zxxxx. the 00 outback is different TZ1A4Zxxxx. so stick with a trans that starts off with the same code number as yours, at least the firs 6 characters. then double check the final drive ratio. they can be found on opposedfoprces.com/parts . the link below has a list of 4eat for the 00 2.5L outback. the trans part numbers (different than the 'TZ' code numbers printed on the bell housing) will interchange. you can use any listed on that page, TZ1A4ZCxxx, notice they cover more than one year. when searching for a trans on car-part.com you will have to search each year separately. you can do the same thing for the GT or the Legacy trans but you will have to double check the final drive ratios. in the early 00s i think the gts and the outback had the same ratios and legacy was different. (it may be related to tire size.) http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/automatic_transmission/at_transmission_assembly/ final drive ratios can be found in ''train'' section of opposedforces.com/parts . if you have a choice, i would get a later year trans, if the price and fit are the same. some of the 99 - 00 (maybe 01) auto trans have a known issue of slow to engage. so avoid them if possible. usually the slow to engage can be corrected with ''trans-x'', but why take the risk if you have another choice. you might try trans-x in your present trans. search for ''trans-x success''. or ''transx trans* fix*'' posted by ''rooster2''.

this is just my very limited opinion, but if the sellers knows what is wrong with the car, bad ground, why hasn't he corrected it. this sounds like a guess to me. a plausible explanation but support by no real facts. and how many times have we heard of a bad ground disabling a car. if you buy it, base your decision on the fact that it does not run and nothing the seller SAYS. he may be right, but i doubt it. assume the worst case, what could be wrong with the car and how much to fix it. this is the only way you can be sure you will not be burned.

apparently the shim and bucket lend themselves to more horsepower. and the HLAs in the 96 ej25 is not the same set up as the 96 ej22, the DOHC doesn't have conventional rockers, it's cam to valve with an adjuster in between. when they went back to SOHC they went with conventional roller / rocker set up. right?

the best. welcome aboard.

stab it with a large , long, screwdriver, all the way through. use it as a lever to twist it off. it's messy but it works. you may want to stab it first and let it drain. come back later and do the twisting.

item # 39. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_17/manual_transmission/mt_transfer_and_extension/illustration_3/ they started using it in 1996 and were still using it in 2008.

yes as long as it is LHD, left hand drive. but it might be cheaper to buy a used rack and install new inner tie rods, maybe boots too, before you in stall it. used racks can be had for $65. they are cheap because they hardly ever fail, there is very little demand. (you probably do not have to replace the tie rods unless they feel loose.) www.car-part.com sort your search by distance first to see if one is in your area. then by price, a distant one may be so cheap that shipping does not matter.

i did that. i then moved to a sedan washer tank, since i had it. that was easier to operate. and finally i got a used tank from a wagon and was good to go.

dave, it is rarely the coil. if it is the coil it will throw misfire codes in pairs, 1 & 2 or 3 & 4, just by the way the coil works. sometimes the igniter will cause a misfire problem. but usually it is the wires, or the plugs. these will fix 80% - maybe 90%? of the misfires.

it sounds like this has been a fairly long process. if you started in the summer or fall, and now just got it back together in the winter, part of the problem may be ''winter gas'', it gets less mpg than summer gas. how many tanks of gas have you driven since the swap? was the engine an exact match? is the trans final drive ratio an exact match? do the trans code numbers match? it may not be any one thing , but it may be a combination of things.

which side of the engine? are you sure it is antifreeze? the only coolant that far back are the heater hoses or thew driver side head gasket, rear corner. lots of things leak in the area of the rear of the engine, but not all are coolant.

fluids will not help, the VC in an manual trans is a sealed unit. the good news is how ever that you can swap in a used one with out pulling the trans. (at least you can on the 90 - 99 cars.) the viscous coupler is located in the rear extension housing on the trans. drop the exhaust and the drive shaft, unbolt the housing and remove the VC. do you have used parts salvage yards in NZ like this www.car-part.com ? this site below will give you the part number and if you click on the ''usage information'' on the part number page it will show you the interchange. lots of other cars use the same VC that you have. but in general, any 5 speed trans in a year close to yours. http://opposedforces.com/parts good luck

typically, the electronics do not cause or contribute to a slow to engage power to the rear. i think it is usually a mechanical issue in the transfer clutch. grooves worn into the in the clutch drum by the clutch plates for instance causing it to hang up. the 4wd locked switch or shifting into 1 or 2 before you need it will give you a 50 / 50 split sooner rather than later. WOT is supposed to do the same thing.