johnceggleston

if the ''slip stop'' you are using is not TRANS-X you are not using the right stuff. it should start helping almost immediately. but id does need to be ''refreshed'' about every 12 months. i would love to know how this was accomplished, a phase 1 engine in a phase 2 car????? did you do the swap? did you buy it this way? if the AT Temp light is flashing there is a code to be read.

this. if the brake lights work, i can 100% guarantee, SEVEN times over it is not the brake pedal switch. the shift inhibitor is a fairly common fail point. but it usually causes a ''no start'' problem. if you listen closely, you should be able to hear the relay activate when you press the shifter button. i would look further down the line , closer to the shift lock solenoid. and no, i cannot explain why replacing the 7 new brake switches made it work for a while. so let me understand. the engine will start, but you cannot shift out of park? i would open the console and put a rubber and on the shift lock , locking it open. this will keep you driving. be sure to always set the hand brake if you do this. does everything else work when you cannot shift ouit of park? horn? cruise? cigarette lighter?

http://opposedforces.com/parts

do what cougar said first. it is easy and cheap. but here's the other thing to think about. the ej18 is non-interference , it is not physically possible for a piston to bump into a valve and bend it. couple this with ''i doubt its timing because i messed it up the first time'' , i would check the timing next. use the hash marks, NOT the ARROWS. but battery first.

take it to another shop. the guy is new and does not know what is right. otherwise ALL 96 subarus in calif. would fail and be sidelined. go somewhere else.

what is it doing? cranking but not firing? when did it start ? how did it start? what else was done just before it started? how long have you had it? did it run well before this , or has it always done this.? more info is better. first guess, bad timing. did you use the arrows? or the hash marks for timing?

first, the valves are probably already bent. and the cams are most likely ''at rest'', all valves closed. if there is no tension on the cam shaft, the valves are closed. with both at rest, rotate the crank to the correct timing alignment position. (the key way in the crank sprocket will be at 6 0clock, straight down. NOT the ARROWS. once the crank is right, all piston will be at mid stroke, no chance of more valve damage. you can rotate the cams any way you want. if one or both cams are under load, it gets trickier. i would rotate the crank the shortest distance, either forward or backward, to get the crank key way in either the 12 oclock or the 6 o clcok position. again this puts rthe pistons at mid stroke. DO NOT rotate more than 90 degrees. you do not need to. you are just trying to get the piuston out of the way, with the least amount of rotation. once you have done this, you can move the cams any way you want. once the cams are at rest you can move the crank to the proper timing belt install position, key way at 6 oclock. good luck.

generally speaking, but not guaranteed true for all, the manual trans ej22s, legacy and imprezas, did NOT have EGR. but you ALWAYS have to double check. i have never heard the question posed this way. usually it is which do have EGR? why do you ask?

which car is in better shape. why not put the ej22 in vthe 97 GT? less work , probably. but you wopuld need an intake manifold from an EGR ej22 95 - 98.

so do I need the manual ECU? NO either on will do. the ECUs aree the same, the harnesses are different. Is there any difference in the wiring harness from the SOHC and DOHC? depends on the year. 99s they are different. you want a harness from 95 - 98. check out the retro-fit forum.

slight correction. the auto trans has a ''transfer clutch'' and duty C. the manual trans has a viscous coupling.

sounds like a wiring problem to me. too many codes for all of them to be bad. clear the codes and see which one comes back first. check the wiring for burns, breaks or rodent damage, and the connectors and pins for damage.

the 00 outback trans will work.

questions: does the relay switch the positive, or the ground wire.? would a bad ground cause this problem? were the ground wires / connections tested?

swap in the ej22. use the ej18 intake manifold. the ej18 probably has EGR, so you may have to do the "work around." nothing else is needed. i do not know about the clutch, i'm an auto trans guy. so the question is, will a FWD clutch work with an AWD trans.

i have not done this repair, but i think the item is bolted to the side of the auto trans. when in park, it connects certain wires. when shifted , it connects other wires, telling the computer(s) where it is . a relatively small item, palm of your hand, a wire connector and a bolt or two. at least this is my understanding of it. the detail;s may be slightly different. the same part was probably used on all auto trans 95 - 98. if you have a ''pull-a-part'' near you that would work. or anyone with a dead trans in his shed has one not being used. ask , or post a want ad.

pic of the wheels? 15" wheels on a 95 lego was not common. most were 185/70/14. some were 195/60/15. as mentioned, 205/55/16 will work great. that is the GT size tire. the GT has the same suspension as the lego L. but youe speedo will be a little off. 205/50/16 are the same size as your current tires.

1/ does the bolt pattern match? 2/ will the off set work with your hubs? this is probably the bigger issue. 3/ it depends on the size of the tire. larger suabru wheels are not an issue, they will not rub. after market is another issue. i doubt they will, but who knows. jack up the car and try one, even with out the tire. but ultimately, it is the tire size that causes rubbing. just because the wheel is one inch larger in diameter does not mean that the tire has to be one inch larger in diameter.

the oil separator plate on the rear of the block is a much more likely source. use a white paper towel to wipe off some of the oil, or better yet let it drip onto the paper towel. if it does not have a pinkish tint, it probably is not trans fluid. it is probably engine oil.

no, not on the manual trans.

it sounds like the shifter is worn and not telling the car it is in P. shove forward on the shift selector and it engages properly. next time it happens, release the shift lock manually, and shift into N. see if it will start then. i think on the auto trans the NSS is called a shift inhibitor, or something like that. a short term solution is to put a rubber band on the shift lock , eliminating the locking aspect. that way when it will not start, you can easily shift to N and start the car. ALWAYS set the parking brake. you do not want ot shift out of P by accident when parked on a hill. also try the horn when the shift lock will not release the shifter. it may prove to be a wiring problem.

you can't do that. the car would not drive unless the center diff is locked up. how do you know the rear diff is bad. they rarely fail. is it binding it tight turns? a bad viscous coupling in the center diff is way way way more common.

some times multi-filament bulbs (brake / tail light combos) will create really weird situations. i would remove the rear bulbs the bulbs one at a time until the lights work correctly. you may need a helper, or a large glass store front to use as a mirror. or it may be a wiring problem.

first, the belt probably did not bust. it was probably the toothed idler. that is a very common ''belt failure''. but that does not change your situation any, except, hanging a new belt will require a new idler as well. so the engine must come out, heads must come off. have the heads ''cleaned and checked'' . this will reveal bent valves, if any. and give a repair cost for replacing the valves. then just put it back together with all new timing components, tensioner, idlers, and water pump included. or, for a little more than the clean and check price, you could buy good used heads and just install them. http://www.car-part.com i think i have read, you can test your valves by turning the heads upside down, and pouring gas onto the valve face, if the valve is bent the gas will leak thru the valve seal and down the valve stem. can any one confirm this test??????? gates timing belt kits on amazon is a good solution.

the MAF and the TPS will also throw a trans code. check those to make sure they are plugged in and the wires to the connector are good. is the trans oil pan dented. that can cause trouble for the harness inside the pan.