johnceggleston

if you can't press in the thumb button on the shifter i would start there. if it does not depress you can't shift the lever. there could be a coin or something down in there. the shifter knob / button can be a little messy with grease that is in there but it is a really simple set up. but it can be re-assembled incorrectly. remove the console covers and release the lever by hand. if it shifts and drives then, it is just your solenoid / lock mechanism. several possible components, solenoid, relay, inhibitor switch, shifter button, brake safety switch .......

bad front speed sensor. swap it out.

either parts, or a convertible. does it rain much where you are?

i don't think the drive shaft needs to be pulled. when the car is not running there is no connection inside the trans, front to rear. the damage is caused by no lubrication on the rear end of the trans since the oil pump is not working. the same is true for towing with the fronts on the ground. no trans oil pumping. i would probably put a chain or tow strap on it and drag the car into a position i could load it properly. or load it as is and drive it really, really, slowly and take a long lunch or college football game brake at the mid point. or perhaps , load it like it sits, and tow it to a near by hill with your truck pointing up hill. put the car in park, chock the front wheels, release the hand brake and remove the straps. drive out from under the car. now reposition the dolly down hill from the car. then coast the car down hill onto the dolly. (don't miss, and be sure to stop. ) good luck. ps: i have that stock radio out of a ''new to me'' 01 outback H6 VDC, if you are interested. pm me.

yes 2 tips, 1. there is no wire connector so you will have to splice it. B. it is not the problem, i have never heard of it failing. III. don't do it , it is not the problem.

are all 4 plugs firing? which 2 are? what were your compression numbers? what timing alignment marks did you use? arrows? or hash marks? just in case, notice that the arrows are not used. if you used the arrows, the hash marks may look good unless you double check the crank position. the key way needs to be in the 6 oclock position when the hash marks are lined up.

usually it is the front one and that is the one that lends it self to be replaced. the rear one does not have an easy disconnect wire like the front. the hard part is getting the wrench on it. a deep well socket may be your best bet.

in the US since 01 there is only one ej engine in production, the ej25. there is a 6 cylinder, ez30 i think, but no more ej22s.

you have to remember that the parts guys, at least most of them, are computer operators and inventory guys. not really parts guys in the way we are. we remove and install parts. we compare and inspect them. we notice that these usually wear out and those usually don't. this is not usually the case with the parts counter guy. but it is reassuring that he was willing to help you out.

i wouldn't worry about the axle nut. if it had been too loose it would have moved. since the boots are good, it would seem you have two problems. the noise and the stink. neither of these is unusual in a subaru. since the smell is being elusive i would concentrate on the clunk. then address the smell. besides, you may learn something about the odor in the process.

i have always used the bracket that came with the car, not the engine. but i have only done a couple of swaps.

it would be helpful to know the years involved. the forester is built on the impreza platform. similar parts will be wheel hubs, axles, drive shaft, steering rack, all sensors, rear brakes, front brakes will swap but you may need larger wheels to clear the calipers, wheels will go but tires are probably too big unless you swap the struts, struts will swap but may need a little work to fit. (i can't remember if it is the early legacy or impreza that needs to be adjusted.) the engine may swap depending on the year but you may need the ECU as well. the trans will swap if you swap the rear diff with it. things like the window motors and dome lights are a maybe. body panels will not. this info should be accurate for US cars.

+1, what he said. and 15" wheels will fit your car. you just have to make sure the tires are not too big. google ''tire size calculator'' and use it to finf equal size tires to your 14s. 195/60/15 is probably equal to your size.

i'm pretty sure the axle nut is a 32mm, or 1.25 inches. yes clicking could be thunks or clunk under certain conditions. my son's 95 lego had a bad axle. usually it just clicked, but when backing up hill out of my drive way while turnoing it would clunk big time. i think click means wear, and clunk means stressful, loaded, if that was my knee joint it would really hurt. were you able to identify which side is clicking? i'm curious to know if it is the original subaru axle or the recently replaced napa axle. i don't think you need to loosen or tighten the axle nut. just check to see if the nut is ''crimped'' at the notch. if so, it is probably tight. at least it hasn't loosened. i guess there is a small possibility that it wasn't tight enough in the first place but the shop would have to be really lax for that to happen. my money is on a cheap replacement axle that has gone bad. but for your sake i hope it is the older one. that is more understandable.

for $20 and an hour of your time you can buy a kit by 3M for your drill and polish your your existing headlights to look like new. most parts stores carry them. even if you decide to replace them with outback lights, you could sell them for a little more if they are clear instead of cloudy. plus, could use the same kit to polish the outback lights , can't hurt.

you can find a used trans for less than $600. and pay a trans shop ~$600 to install it. back on the road for $1200. look for a used trans on www.car-part.com . sort your search by distance, shipping is expensive.

try starting it with out the alt. if the battery is good enough it should run.

welcome! it's a bad wheel bearing. the noisy side is the one that is bad.

yes, 00 - 03 (at least) will fit in the 95 - 99 cars if you knock off the tone ring. i assume 04 will as well but i don't know.

i would check the backing plate. if it was bent during the struggle, it could be dragging on the rotor.

thunk clunk clicking is usually a sign of a bad axle. my 00 legacy had the driver side boot go at 85 k, passenger side is still subaru. i assume original. drive in tight circles, first right then left , have a friend stand on one side and then the other. see if you can tell which side is making the noise. they should run a long time with clicking, subaru axles will at least. don't know about napa. but you don't want a failure on the road if you can avoid it.

disconnect the battery for a longer period, overnight maybe. they should clear.

the trans is designed to stay in 1 when it is shifted into 1, until you hit 6500 rpms or manually shift to another gear. it shifts at 6500 to protect the engine. so it sounds like your trans thinks the shifter is in 1. so i would check the inhibitor switch on the passenger side of the trans. (it also reports to the TCU what gear you have put the shifter in) so i would check that. or i would check the TCU, maybe replace it.

i don't remember case bolts being behind the flex plate but i have never split a block so i don't know. i think a TC is only 75$. but it is your car, so toss the engine and trans and go from there. good luck.

pull the plugs? put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and rock it back and forth? remove the heads? spray pb blaster into the cylinders? split the block? worst case, replace the torque converter, or throw the whole car away.