johnceggleston

i should have one if you need it, 20$ shipped.

i brought one back from cola death using windex. and i completely killed another one doing the same thing. next time i think i'll try a silicone spray.

glad to hear it. i hate wasting good parts, but i hate wasting time fighting a $2 part even more. thanks. of course, sometimes the hose need replacing anyway.

96 - 99 2.5L engines will work. so will a 95 2.2L engine. and with a little extra work, very little extra, the 96 - 98 2.2L will work. you can check the link below for parts, put in your zip code and sort your search by distance. shipping is expensive: http://www.car-part.com

the 96 ej22 i put in my 97 GT had them. are you sure it is a 96, maybe it's a 98 that was swapped in to a 96?

the one possibility you didn't mention is the timing belt tensioner. they can make noise when they get old and start flopping around. iirc, you can eliminate / identify piston slap by shorting out the spark on the suspect cylinder. if the noise goes away, it is piston slap. if the noise continues it is something else. but it has been a long time since i did this so you should double check the procedure. a mechanics stethoscope will help narrow down the area the noise is coming from.

the only correction i would make is, ''piston slap LESSENS as the engine warms up.'' it does disappear on some engines, but on my 97 obw it never really went away. what year, engine, trans, miles, car?

you can lift the engine and trans together with the engine hoist, or jack them both up together from below with a jack and a large block of wood. but which ever you choose. the trans has to be supported before you can pull the engine forward.

the 95 impreza auto trans has a 4.11 final drive ratio it will fit in 95 - 98 legacys that have a 2.2L engine. it will not fit in any 2.5L car. on the 03, the 00 - 04 2.5L engines should work, as well as the 99-00 2.2L engines. but some whaer in there they changed the cam sprockets, so at the least, compare the ''new'' engine cam sprocket to the ''old'' engine cam sprocket, and if there is a difference, use the ''old'' cam sprocket on the new engine.

i think, that method is only for OBD1 cars, or at least cars that have a power light. for OBD2 cars you have to ground out a pin on the 6 pin ''diagnostic'' connector under the dash. all the pins in the connector are for reading codes of one type or another, trand, ABS, air bag, etc. there is / are one or two single pin ground wires included in the bundle. for complete details search ''transcodes''. Trouble Codes Trouble code retrieval, grounding terminal # 5 of connector B82 a 6 pole black, right side of steering column. Trouble codes will be displayed through AT Temp light with the following differences. There are 14 possible trouble codes communicated from the TCU. They are displayed in the same format as old fuel system trouble codes, long Flash = 10, short flash = 1. For example: 2 long and 4 short = code 24, Duty Solenoid C. The clear memory procedure is simple and quick, just remove fuse No. 14 for at least one minute. #12 in that pic - those two diagnosis terminals - those are grounded wires you can use. You can use your own grounded wire too of course. If they've never been used before, those grounded diagnosis terminals will be taped up into the harness so you have to pull them out; the connector itself might be taped close to the wiring loom too. one item of note when reading the codes, keep your foot off of the brake pedal. also, i think there is a limitation regarding the key being on. i can't remember, but either the pin needs to be grounded before you turn the key on or the key must be on before you ground the pin. i can't remember. but i think it is ground out the pin first. if that does not work, try it the other way.

you need to check the TPS on the throttle body. make sure it is plugged in. check the wires to see if one broke or is corroded. adjust the TPS correctly.

review the pic below and time it correctly. using the wrong timing marks can cause bent valves. DO NOT assume you can identify the correct timing marks just by looking at the cam and crank sprockets. YOU WILL GET IT WRONG unless you know what you are looking for . study the timing ''alignment marks'' before you pull the pin. SOHC DOHC

ALL 2.5L engines are interference. waht are you trying to do?

pull an old style antenna from another car and connect it to your radio. i bet it works great. you may have to hang it out the window. radios will pick up some stations with only the cable connected, no antenna. check the connections at the antenna.

i have done a couple of these. i cut them off unless they relatively new. actually i always try to remove them but i almost always fail and just cut. to replace you need 5/8" trans fluid hose, ~18 inches, 8 inches for the top hose and ~10 inches for the lower hose. i read somewhere that the hose costs $2 per foot, so the replacement cost is $3. i re-use the clamps unless they get ruined in removal or look suspect.

when you search for a 93, the software only returns parts that are known to fit. so all shown will work unless the guy at the parts yard entered the info incorrectly. the interchange software on that site is very conservative. it does not know that a 96 outback auto trans will work in a 97 - 98 outback. we have learned this thru real world experience. but if it shows the TCU will work, it should.

VIN = 4S3BK6756V7313723 i took some pics of the top support in my 97 GT. 97 GT top rad support and all 4 bolt holes . 2 used and 2 empty. the 97 GT uses the inner bolt holes, ~21.25" apart, (maybe 1/16" more). the right side to right side of the brackets is the same distance as the center to center of the bolts. the finger points to the wider bolt hole on the left, not the tape measure. the wider bolt holes in the top support are ~25.25" apart, (maybe 1/16" more). i repositioned the tape to show/ measure the wider bolt to bolt distance. i took a couple of pics of the rad it self but they didn't turn out very well. i tossed the top and bottom brackets . i thought i would need them on the new rad but i didn't. the only thing i had to swap from the old to the new were the 2 large rubber grommets on the top for the attaching brackets.

did you look here, www.car-part.com ? usually i sort by distance, but shipping on a trans computer is going to be cheap, so i would sort by price or part grade. Transmission, 4WD (L. strg col), LHD, w/o turbo http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=All+States&userIMS=&userInterchange=CB%3DA%3D&userSide=&userDate=1993&userDate2=1993&dbModel=70.6.1.1&userModel=Subaru%20Legacy&dbPart=591.1&userPart=Computer%20Box%20Not%20Engine&sessionID=600000000000000000007906968&userPreference=price&userZip=24015&userLat=37.2556&userLong=-79.9796&userIntSelect=606117&userUID=0&userBroker=&iKey=&userPage=2

from my limited perspective, the parts that you can sell easily, are probably the parts that you may need. they will be the ones that wear out. so you either sell them or save them. all the other parts are a long shot on both selling and needing, but there is always the odd broken part. so pull the parts you think you will need, based on how much room you have and scrap the rest. it really isn't worth having the shell sit around. if it were me, the engine , trans, any good interior pieces, hubs as mentioned, any ''recently'' replaced parts, tires, wheels, all sensors, maybe a few lights, would be keepers. i would sell anything i had no room for, and anything on the shell that others might want. the rest is scrap, $9 per 100 around here, last time i checked.

fred, look at it this way. if replacing the tcu fixes it you are done. if not you are no worse off. if you had put your repair effort into the tcu instead of the switch, you would know now if it worked. if the tcu does not fix it, you can just leave the switch in for 2 years.

i would swap in the cam sensor form the other engine. (is this a swap thread, i can't remember.) or at least check to make sure it is plugged in.

double post

the cross over pipe has 4 places it can leak. 1. upper rad hose connection passenger side front, low chance, on the left end of the pipe in the pic. 2. o-ring, cross over pipe to passenger side block, pretty good chance #6 in pic below . 3. o-ring, cross over pipe to driver side block, pretty good chance #6 in pic below. 4. hose connection on the rear driver side it may be a heater hose connection, i can't remember. the cast aluminum to steel pipe joint maybe could leak, it's on the right end of the pipe in the pic.. pic of cross over pipe. replacing the o-rings is not expensive, but you have to remove the intake to get to it. so it is some work, but not engine pulling or head removing work.

yeah, but do they come in metric for the asian cars?????

i bought it from advance auto, it listed for ~125$ but i ordered it online and used a discount coupon, ''BIG35'' and paid less than 99$ including 5% tax. EDIT: i was surprised that the rad came complete with top and bottom brackets. all i had to do was swap the over the top rubber groments onto the new rad bracket. easy peasy. i'd be glad to send you the brackets, top and bottom, but i think i trashed them. i only save the rad for the aluminum. if i did trash the brackets, you will have to settle for the measurements from a 98 outback chassis. should be the same. i'm pretty vsure the outback , like the GT , has mounting holes for either rad. i'll check the build date as well. the rad in your diagram appears to be the same as the 95 lego. 5/8 inch thick with the bottom pins in the side tanks. the 97 GT is speced as 1'' inch thick and has pins on the bottom bracket.