johnceggleston

it will help if the wheels are on the ground and the hand brake is on. put the impact on it and have at it . do you think the impact is going to move the car??

in the last few weeks i have installed a new 97 GT rad and installed a used 95 lego rad. the 97 gt has bolt on brackets like the one in your pic. of course i can't be 100% but it is of that style. the 95 lego is different, the top bracket does not bolt on, it fits over top of the rad and when bolted down, it hold it in place. plus the bottom or your rad is more like the 97 GT. it has the bracket bolted to it and the pins are not on the end tanks, but the bracket. it maybe that the 94 era rad is more like the GT. and the 95 era lego was one of the ''cost saving changes'' that subaru made in 95. i would bet that the gt will work. but the only sure way is to compare them or measure the width of the pins and the bolt holes. if i were home i would measur the width for you on the one i removed. but i'm on the road until thursday.

the lower frame member in my 97GT has both sets of mounting holes, wider ones like the 95 lego, the bottom pins are directly below the end tanks, and the holes closer to the center, for the GT radiator. the GT radiator is 1" thick, the L rad is 5/8" thick. the holes in the frame member have rubber grommets in them to cushion the rad. i don't know the dimension, width, of the GT rad pins, but if the lower frame member has large (~1.5") holes closer to the center than the ones being used on your lego there is a chance. i think the bolt holes in the upper frame are very similar. the 97GT has both wide and not so wide. one pair is used for the GT rad, and the other for the L rad. does your upper frame member have unused bolt holes?

when working with subarus, FORGET TDC. dismiss it from your mind. it does not apply when mounting, installing or looking at timing belts. so if you actually turned the crank until the #1 cylinder was at the top, what you saw has no meaning. if you removed the plug just to make it easier to turn, that may be different. the degree marks above the timing cover mean nothing when checking to see if the crank and cams are correct. you have to remove the covers to see the timing marks on the cams . if they are both the same, you then have to remove the crank pulley, and the center cover to see the crank alignment. my apologies if i have misunderstood the situation. pic of correct timing alignment for ej22s in the 90s.

i paid 225 last spring for a 98 outback. BUT back in 02, i paid 100 for a 95 lgo. both were done in my drive way.

for less than $200 in parts, you can replace all the front seals, the oil sep plate, the valve cover gaskets and the timing belt with all the idlers and the water pump. do that and the car will be good for at least 60k miles, maybe 100k. of course since the engine is non-interference, you wouldn't have to do the timing belt components now, you could only do the seals and fix the leaks. but you will have to do them eventually. i guess you have to weigh the cost of parts against the inconvenience of a failed timing belt.

it sounds like the original cat is still good and passes the test, but the aftermarket cat is not good and did not pass. note to self, do not replace original cats, replacements are not as good. glad you got it on the road. enjoy.

it alll depends on the year!!!!!

it takes 3 thing for the engine to run. spark fuel and air, under pressure. it will never run with those compression numbers. either the test is wrong or the timing is WAY off or all the valves & rings are bad. one of these is more likely and one of these is less likely. i think more testing is needed. maybe a leak down test. is your compression gauge good?

yes, 96 - 99.

go back to where you bought the tires and complain. new tires should not go thump. get a refund and go buy decent tires. or, keep going back complaining about the tires, demanding replacements until you get a good set or they get tired and pay you off.

+1, what he said. since the fuse ''cures'' the binding there is a really good chance that new fluid will fix, or at least dramatically reduce, the binding. drain and fill 3 times is recommended rather than having a ''flush'' done.

the vlsd was optional on the 00 or 01 outbacks, by 03 they were standard on the outbacks. (4.44 auto trans, 4.11 manual trans). they were also on GTs in that era but i don't know the details. but cars101.com would tell you. or car-part.com will ask, locking or non-locking, if you search those years. i understand lower mileage would be a safer bet for a used vlsd, but i question the 50k mile limit. the unit is not identical to the center diff vlsd, but it is the same design and those don't all die at 50k, do they? as a matter of fact, the center diff may get more wear and tear than the rear? maybe not.

roughly, 00 - 04, and probably beyond. search for axles for those years and i think you will see a pattern.

true for the ej22 90 - 98, not the ej25 00 - 04. the head bolts are inside the cover. but on the 00 - 04 you don't have to remove the rockers to pull the head. but i here on the ej25d dohc you have to remove the rockers to get to the head bolts.

is this right???? if is it is, it's the most convoluted set up i have heard. why not just let the regular ''inertia'' catch grab the seat belt. the one in my 06 ford truck is so sensitive that i have to wait until i'm on smooth pavement before i can pick something up off of the floor. i don't think this is right, is it??

guide studs? is this to help you locate the head on the block? the block has 2 ferrules / guide tubes ( i don't know what flows thru them?) mounted on it. this will guide you the last 1/2 inch. will that do what you need? when i did mine, i had the engine on an engine stand with the block rotated 90* so i was able to set the head straight down on the block. it was easy. of course if you don't have an engine stand........

GD's recent thread on head re-surfacing is excellent. a similar how to on valves would be much appreciated. i can read a manual but pics and tips are very valuable. do the auto parts stores lend / rent valve spring compressors?

how do those numbers compare with the ones near the bottom of this page for the duty c, pin 3? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TCU_I-O_page2.jpg

unless you put the pos battery cable to ground and the neg to the starter, yes, the starter is bad. often times re-manned starters are troublesome. i would get a used starter, maybe. or replace the contacts for the original starter. they cost about $15.00 and are not hard to install.

sit, stay, in the dog house for 10 minutes. what kind of white dog do you have?

i can't find the compression numbers for the '03 , but i do know the ratio is 10:1. but the compression numbers on the 99 DOHC 2.5L engine with 9.5:1 ratio is 176, with 136 considered the minimum. so 150 is not in itself deadly. but having all 4 numbers will give you a better picture. yes, jumped time is likely bent valves very likely, but not 100%. but if it jumped enough to be 0 psi on #4, yeah probably bent, if not a burned valve. you probably didn't check #2 since #4 was 0.

you have learned much , grasshopper. but if you have one dead cylinder and one low cylinder the chances are pretty good, depenfding which 2 cylinders, chances are pretty good it is just off time. the belt jumped, the driver side cam is off. 2 and 4 are on the driver side, you said 4 was dead, is 2 the ''low'' cylinder? [ 3 ]---[ 4 ] [ 1 ]---[ 2 ] front of car anyway, jumped time may be bent valves, but it may not. buy the timing kit and hang a new belt or hang the old one. you can leave the timing cover and the accessory belts off of this test. if it runs better, do a compression test. you will need to keep track of the timing through out this test. if it jumped once it could jump again during the test, especially if the tensioner is weak. as long as you are sure the engine will be repaired, buying the timing kit is not a waste of money. as far as pulling the engine, leave the intake in place. i use an old seat belt as a lifting strap under the intake. careful to grab only the intake, not wire or tubes. (driver front passenger rear.) most folks use the rear ''hook'' passenger side and the front AC bracket. i like the strap. yes , jack up the trans , careful not to dent the trans oil pan, and then separate the engine. the lower trans to engine bolts are actually long studs mounted in the engine. you will have to move the engine ~3 inches to clear the studs. you will probably have to adjust the engine angle as you lift and pull. remove the ''dog bone'' on top of the trans (to firewall) so you can jack it up. i think the last time i did this i lifted the engine and trans as a unit and placed a jack stand under the trans. i then set the trans down on the jack. then loosened and pulled the engine. i don't know if this is a bad idea or not. oh yeah, search for ''torqueconverter'' and read some of the older threads(all the newer threads are instructions to search) for a how to re-seat the TC. failure to do so, if it slides out more than ~1/2 inch, will kill the trans. re-seating is not hard to do as long as you know it is needed. but if it is not seated correctly, it will kill the trans oil pump.

YES, YES, YES, leave the old one unless it is LEAKING big. this is the one seal that can last the life of the car. but i would check it rather than just ignoring it. you might consider pulling the engine instead of the trans, depending on your shop set up. less time on your back under the car.

in the 90s legacys, only the outback, the GT or the LSi 96 - 99 had the 2.5L engine from the factory. 2.2 has SOHC. 2.5 has DOHC. (this is more of a diagram than a drawing, when you see a DOHC subaru engine you'll get the point.)