johnceggleston

i may know where a 00 impreza, ej22 engine is for sale, fairly priced. shipping extra.

or, if you have the key in the ''on'' position when you re-connect the battery, you avoid this situation.

i have removed all 3 lock cylinders, and in my opinion the doors are the hardest to re-install. so i would re-key the ignition and the hatch. the ignition is designed, so if you know what you are doing and have the right tool, you can remove it without taking apart the plastic surrounding it. but even as a beginner i was able to do it with out much head ache. there are a couple of good write ups,one is mine, do a search. the hatch is simple, but it will help if you have a deep well 8mm? socket. i think it's 8mm, it's small. i don't know why the threaded stud is so long but it is. i would call, or visit may be better, a couple of locksmiths, show them the keys and ask if they can help, and how much to re-key. if the keys are similar it may just be a ''need a better key'' deal. but if they are obviously different then re-key is the way to go.

e connectors are on the engine, b connectors are on the bulkhead. the diagram is too small for me to see but there are only so many connectors on / under the intake. how many pins does it have? it is probably the one connected to the sensor. if you are testing the wiring you want to test from the very end, at the sensor.

if the FWD fuse doesn't help, a switch won't either unless there is a wiring problem between the TCU and the and the duty c. but it might be helpful to see if it did help. maybe it is a wiring problem. i think a new duty c will take a lot of abuse for a long time. but i wouldn't want to pay to replace it twice though. it wouldn't be hard to find the duty c pin on the TCU connector and put juice to it. but i'm not sure i would want to back feed the TCU . it probably would not hurt , but who knows. and of course, with the flashing AT Temp light, the TCU ''thinks'' the duty c is bad. a thought, if you remove / disconnect the tcu, the car should be in limp mode, locked 4wd, TB, and only third gear. but what would happen if you put 12 v to the duty c then.? that might identify the possible wiring problem. and you wouldn't have to cut any wires to test it.

there are mounting screws at the hinge point. one on either side and at the split point in the middle. if you remove the mounting screws, you may be able to get it out. once out disconnect the latch mechanism, either the latch or the bracket it latches to. good luck.

found one, $25 shipped. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1048814#post1048814 i have no idea if they are compatible.

slightly off topic, but cooling related. i have noticed that some after market t-stats are 170* and some are 195*?. is there a good or bad to either one of these? what is the stock T-stat? my inclination would be to use the lower temp, 170*, unit for a lower temp engine. this is clearly a reaction to ej25s over heating. but i'm wondering , does the ECU care if the engine coolant is 170 vs. 195. generally speaking, this is just a theoretical discussion since i would only install an after market item if i could not source a subaru t-stat. as a matter of fact, i have two good used after market ones on my work bench right now, one of each, but i'll be buying a subaru stat in the morning. (this assumes you can use the word good in the same sentence with aftermarket t-stat.) i was just curious . sorry for the hi-jack.

since you have changed the duty c, and the TB is temp sensitive, i would suggest the the trouble could be in the TCU. there are a few threads of bad TCUs causing TB. my son's 95 lego has intermittent TB . some times it does not occur until it has been driven for an hour. i couldn't find a solution so i pulled the rear section of the drive shaft. i left the fuse in and some times the FWD light comes on . but most times the AT Temp light flashes at start up. maybe the TCU is the cause. get a used one and see if ti helps.

item #1 in the pic. the one with 2 wires. (the single wire unit goes to the gauge only.) it is located under the intake on top of the engine on the passenger side. you access it from the back side. the left end of the cross over pipe in the pic connects to the top radiator hose.

2 things about this swap. and it kind of depends on how much stuff your 95 engine comes with. 1. the 98 has the charcoal canister in the rear, the 95 has it up front next to the ABS unit. there are 2 small metal evap lines that come out from under the intake, passenger side front corner, on the 95, just fabricate a ''u'' connector. connect the smaller line back to the larger one. all the necessary evap lines going to the canister are in place on the rear of the car and you don't need to do any thing except put in the u-turn connector. i bought a cheap tubing fitting that reduced from the larger to the smaller tube sizes, but i'm not sure that is necessary. 2. the 95 has 2 small vac lines that take off from the intake, passenger side and go over to two devices on the strut tower. one of them has a small ''filter'' in line. the 98 only has one vac line going to the strut tower, it has the ''filter'', and it connects to the first device on the strut tower. and then the second device on the strut tower is connected to the first one, sort of a daisy chain affair. if you look closely, you will see that the 98 has 2 lines that join together with a ''tee'' connector close to the intake. you can use the same set up on the 95, just borrow it from the 98. mostly you just have to know that there is a difference. it isn't a big deal if you know it is there. good luck. let us know what you need.

if you have the ignition cylinder don't bother with the door cylinder. door cylinders are much harder to remove and re-install. or buy a used ignition cylinder w/ a key. lots of those around.

yes, a more reliable engine over all. actually an engine that will take quite a bit of abuse and still go. i chose to do it because i was pretty confident i could pull and install an engine. but i had absolutely no confidence i could remove heads and re-install and have the car run. i just had no experience. plus there is the rod knock danger for ej25s that have been severely over heated. if the engine you are working on is your own, you know the history. but if you just bought the car, you just don't know how badly it has been over heated. and i cannot imagine the going through all the work of replacing the head gaskets, not to mention the timing components and re-install the engine only to have it start knocking within a few weeks.

any damage to the trans oil pan? a dented pan can cause troubles like this. if yes, it could be a cut or pinched wire. if no, you need a new solenoid in the trans.

this looks good: they have a 95 from an auto car w/ 145k for $375. USA-IN(Brooklyn) E-mail 1-800-247-9273 and 1-317-831-2627 http://www.brickyardimportedcars.com/ EDIT: 60 day warranty

95 ej22 from an auto trans car is the best plug and play engine. easiest swap. in my opinion, 96 i, auto trans ej22 is next. it is non- interference., but you need the y-pipe. 97 - 98 auto trans ej22 are next, they are like the 96, need the y-pipe, but they are interference engines. 90 - 94 may work, but they will have issues, like no EGR and they are obd1 so the wiring may be different. i don't really know. and with so many 95 - 98 available, why go back that far? your best bargain is probably a wrecked / or bad auto trans car found locally. but if you can't find anything , look at www.car-part.com. sort your search by distance, shipping is expensive. another possible option is an ej25 with a busted timing belt. it will have bent valves, but probably not over heated. swap your heads onto that block, new head gaskets and go. for that matter, an 00 - 04 block will work with your heads and intake. but they may be harder to come by, and more expensive.

since the problem went away i haven't spent any time on it. but i think i need to study the wiring diagrams. thanks for the input. john

ok, but unless something is bent or broken, you shouldn't really need the ''wedges'' to get it right, i don't think. have you made any changes to the car, outback struts for instance? have the struts been replaced ? is there a possibility they are on the wrong side of the car?(just a thought, i don't even know if it is possible) i do not remember ever reading about some one needing wedges to get the alignment right. something in this does not smell right. but i'm not an alignment guru so my experience is limited.

+1 if you need tires, you can buy slightly larger ones if you want. but you can stay with the same over all diameter if you don't want larger. my 97 GT speedo is slightly off, a little slow ~2mph. (the joys of having a gps with a trip setting. if the odometer is off 2% on a 100 mile trip then the speedo is also off that much.) going all the way up to outback tires makes it slightly fast, ~2 mph. so buying a tire that falls half way in between would / should / maybe make it closer to being correct. but i will not even consider it until i need tires. i'm not going to throw away perfectly good tires.

the trim piece the cig lighter is mounted in will remover pretty easily. remove the cup holder above. remove the cup holder ''tray'' the part the cup holder slides in to, 2 screws. remove the ash tray. remove the screws in the ''ceiling'' of the ash tray slide opening, 2 each, i think. you can feel them with you finger. the wires to the lighter are a little short so it isn't like you can work in your lap, but it will be easier than reaching in through the ash tray hole.

i didn't know that the 95 outback had different struts than the 95 L , LS, or LSi. the outback in 95 was just a ''trim'' level option, it did not have all of the same stuff as the 96. the 95 obw had the 2 tone paint and a different bumper with fogs, but it didn't have the step roof or the larger tires. and since the tire diameter was the same as the legacy, 195/60/15 = 185/70/14, i just thought the struts were the same. live and learn. if you didn't request outback struts i would have him put on the stock legacy struts. clearly the ones installed are not the stock struts. note : i can't find a part number for a 95 front strut, outback, that is different from the legacy L part number.

i had an alignment done at merchants tire and had a similar problem. the software on the alignment computer said i needed ''after market '' camber bolts to adjust it correctly. i argued that the car came with camber bolts and to adjust them. they didn't believe me. i told them to call the dealer and ask or put it back on the rack and adjust it . they opted for the latter, and it adjusted just fine. i then asked for a refund of all the money i had spent on alignments, 3 times in 20 months, plus a set of replacement tires since mine were so badly worn. unless you have some odd, non-stock, equipment on your car or something bent or worn out, the top camber bolt will adjust it correctly. make them do it again. make them prove to you that adjusting that bolt will not get it right. the software is wrong.

96 outback struts are taller than 95 outback struts maybe as much as 2 inches. the new struts may be 96 - 98 struts. but it should not hurt your car. lots of folks put the taller outback struts on the legacy so the car is higher and they can use larger tires.

imho, yes. good for you and good for him. he will spend less than a day earning $200. that's more than $25 per hour. lots more if he does it all in 4 hours, but he probably won't. not for brakes and timing belt. the shop charges, what, $75 - $85 per hour. and their fees are based on the ''book time'' not the actual time.

actually GTs have 16s, but the point is still the same. the LSi cam with 15 inch alloys with 195/60/15 tires. they are the same diameter. outback alloy wheels are very common and readily available. you can also buy 15 steel wheels which were stock on 00 - 03 legacys. they may be cheaper, but probably not a lot. the outback alloys look good on the legacy w/ 195/60/15 tires.