johnceggleston

maybe, find a pair, or two, of 175s used so if if it doesn't work you're not out the full price. are 175s even available in the matching diameter? 175/70/15 is ~2% larger in diameter. 185/65/15 is ~1% larger in diameter. dropping down a size with either one would put you 1% and 2% smaller, respectively. the 185 is going to give you more choices and i think lower prices.

i read somewhere a while back, that the ECU in an outback ''injected'' more fuel than the ECU in an ''L''. any truth to this? the reason i ask, since i have an ej22 in a 98 outback, if i could replace the ECU and reduce the fuel injected, would this improve my fuel economy?

car..................wheel width...........................tire width.............difference L..................... 5.5 inch (14" steel)................185 (7.28")...............132% L..................... 6.0 inch (14" alloy)................185 (7.28")...............121% LSi................... 6.0 inch (15" alloy)...............195 (7.68")...............128% GT................... 6.5 inch (16" alloy)...............205 (8.07")...............124% OBW................ 6.0 inch (15" alloy)...............205 (8.07")...............134% if you the take the smallest difference between the tire and wheel, 121%, on the L with 14" alloy wheels, and apply that to the 14 x 5.5 inch steel wheel on the ''L'' it comes in at 169 tire. that's doable. do the same to the 15 x 6 inch alloy wheel (or 15 x 6" steel from later years) and you come up with 184 tire. that's doable. 175 on a 6 inch wide wheel would give you: proposed ..........6.0" wheel.................175 (6.88") tire................ 114% not a huge ratio difference from 121%, but a difference of 5%. there is probably an industry standard ''do not go below'' figure, but you would have to ask some one (engineer) in the tire industry. my concern would be the handling and braking of the car at speed on the narrower tires. especially at high speed. you can always put enough air in the tire to make sure it holds the rim. so much of tire size is based on the fashion / style and popular wheel size of the day it is hard to know what is actually needed.

i'm not a 12 volt auto electrical guru, ut i thought black was usually the ground wire. you need a cheepo tester to see which wire is 12 v and which is not. i once that is done the 12v wire goes on the center bottom, the side wire is the ground. the metal housing / tube is grounded. the one in my 97 GT has an ''extra'' wire for some thing. ''another'' accessory maybe ? so my guess is that you have 2 wires w/ 12v. the 12v wire, wires, probably have a female connector. that way if the ''accessory' is not there the wire does not flop around and ground out on the metal frame work. the ground wire does not need the same care. if some wires are female and some are male that may be a clue. if the wires have been cut / replaced / and taped back together, then all bets are off.

first look for the Check Engine Light, if it is on have the code read and it will point oyu in the right direction. but it sounds like you have a vac hose disconnected. check all the hoses/ vac lines under the hood. especially under the black plastic air intake tube that runs from the air filter box to the throttle body. there is a large, black tube / hose that connects the air intake to the pcv. it has a larger diameter than your thumb. it is easy to knock off when changing the air filter or plugs and is very hard to see. i hope this is your problem, it is an easy fix, but i would have thought a decent mechanic would have caught it. good luck and let us know what you find.

97 GT wagon w/ a 96 ej22 swap. 154k miles. last year i replaced the clock spring from a 96 w/ 125k miles. this fixed the no horn / no cruise problem. i do not remember a shift lock problem before the repair. but today, for the first time, i had a shift lock problem. i couldn't get it out of park. no combination of pushing, pressing or shifting would get it to unlock. so i removed the shifter trim piece and used the manual release. then, while driving, i noticed i had no horn / no cruise. GREAT, i need another clock spring. but i continued on my way and at some point my horn returned to service. (i couldn't test my cruise since i was on gravel , back woods , roads.) once it got to my destination everything seem to work fine, horn and shift lock. later, several hours, when it was time to go home my shift lock did not work. checked the horn, no horn. press, push, wiggle, fiddle. now they both work. (about a 5 sec. time span.) what the hell? has anyone ever seen or heard of this problem???????? this feels like i have ghost in my car. thanks, john.

but your point is correct. the crank rotates twice for every one rotation of the cam. so if the fuel injection ''lobes'' were on the crank, the ecu wouldn't know which rotation is was actually on. and if the spark ''lobes'' were on the cam ..... well maybe that would work. unless it was just too complicated . there probably needs to have some distance in between the lobes. and having 2 sensors on one sprocket just seems silly.

no need to drain and fill twice on a manual trans, once will do it just fine. and when you do the rear diff, remove the fill plug FIRST. you don't want to drain it and then find out you can't fill it.

there are lobes on the back side of the driver side cam sprocket. the cam sensor ''senses'' them as they rotate past. the ecu uses the signal from the cam sensor to trigger the fuel injection. the same is true for the crank sensor and crank sprocket. but they trigger the spark plugs to fire. if the cam or the crank jumps a tooth or two, the fuel and spark do not occur at the correct ''time'', either too early or too late. same for the valves since they operate with the cam sprockets.

link to the write up for adding a starter relay to your ignition circuit. this fix may correct a no start issue. and in my opinion it is easier than replacing the contacts in the starter solenoid. starterrelay, starterrelayfix, starter relay fix starterrelay repair

the starter probably isn't getting enough electricity. check you battery post connections first and make sure it is fully charged, maybe check that the alternator is doing its job. but it is probably either the contacts in the starter solenoid or there is voltage drop in the wires and the ignition switch. the starter contacts are not expensive, ~$15, and it isn't difficult to do. you do have to remove the starter. i fixed mine by adding a relay to the starter circuit. specifically, to the wire that goes from the ignition switch and feeds electricity to the starter solenoid. that's the small wire attached to the starter. the relay and fused power wire you need cost about the same as the contacts. but i was reluctant to ''open'' the starter solenoid and i had read that this would fix my problem. try searching ''starter relay'' or maybe ''starterrelay'' or starter relay fix. i found it. the relay fix write up : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=67805&postcount=1 more discussion on the subject: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=812232#post812232

lots of us haul parts in our legacys / outbacks. i don't see the need for cutting the roof off, but i have dreamed about it. i suspect by the time you are hauling something big enough to need the roof gone you will have met the load limit of the car. but that's just a guess. a hood might travel better if there were no sides or roof. i solved the problem by getting a small sailboat trailer and building a platform on it. it weighs about 350 lbs and i carry what ever i want, including my canoes. and if the whatever leaks, no worries.

search for the year you want at http://www.car-part.com . sort your search by ''year''. if the soft ware returns 00 forester doors, then it will fit. my guess is that it will. i would be surprised if they only used that style door for 2 years. usually a design change will go for 5 years or so.

or get them used. or just cut out the rusted part and use a longer rubber hose. or like he said, just replace them with all rubber. on the first engine swap i did, 97 GT ej25 to ej22, i bought 2 feet of trans hose. i now know, several swaps later, that each of the hoses are only about 8" each. so 2 feet of hose would easily eliminate the rusted part of your metal lines if you cut them. we're talking <$5 plus clamps. and maybe 2.5 times that if you run all the way to the trans.

Roflmao!

only on the outbacks from the factory.

there is a solenoid that activate when you step on the brake when the car is in park. it withdraws a pin which un-locks the shifter. mine is intermittent. i had it tied down with a rubber band for a while. but i am still a little scared of it. if you remove the console around the shifter you will see the mechanism. my guess is that a used one would be a good bet, but i don't really know. i also don't know what the cost new.

i'm pretty sure the 96 ej22 has HLAs. i know the 95 does. i swapped a 96 ej22 into a 97 GT, but i don't remember looking at the rockers. can any one confirm or deny?

nope, no grease fittings. i used an oil can a squirted 30W oil on it. not ideal, but if it relieves the symptoms then you know what the problem is. you can always buy a used or new replacement part.

the typical failure is for the bolt to loosen and the crank sprocket to move, hammering on the key way, the key and the sprocket. the fix is to replace the key and the sprocket (and the harmonic balancer) and the bolt and to put it back together and torque it correctly. lots of folks have done this with good success. i have never heard of the crank bolt threads being bad.

is this the same, burnt valve, car? my friend, you have stuck your finger in the dam to plug a leak and as soon as you plug one, another pops up. i feel your pain. it is too too bad you didn't get lucky and buy a legacy that only needed a timing belt and a tune up. hopefully you are on the verge of being done with repairs for this car. i'm not sure the hours you have in this one will ever pay off. but then again, it has kept you out of the bars and strip joints.

another solution is to post a wanted ad here. some one has a dead trans sitting around. were still talking about the solenoid / connector , right?

and coolant is on sale now at advance auto parts. look for the full strength. how often do you replace your coolant? and like the guy said about the trans fluid, pulling the engine seems like a good time to do it, unless you already have.

double check the front o2 wire connector. open it, check the pins, clean it if needed and re-connect. do the same with the 3? big wire connectors on the passenger side rear of the engine at the trans. check to see if any pins are bent. it sounds like something is disconnected as far as the o2 and knock codes go. but as for the EGR, you will never get rid of that one. you should have used an engine from an auto trans car. those are the only ej22s that have EGR. and ALL 96 - 99 ej25s have egr. i hope a CEL will not stop you from getting your car inspected.

2 things 1, when axles go bad they wiull pop and click when you make turns, replacement axles should correct that. 2, grabbing, jumping and shuddereing when making tight turns at slow speeds sounds like ''torque bind''. do a search and read up. is the car an auto trans? if yes, put the fuse in the FWD holder under the hood, passenger side near the windshield. ANY fuse will do. if this cures your problem then your duty c solenoid is ok but you have torque bind. make sure all 4 tires are the same brand, size, and inflation. any of these three can cause torque bind. i find it odd that the problem went away with the new axles but came back with in a few days. try the FWD fuse and see if that helps.